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Jeff R

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Jeff R last won the day on October 6

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About Jeff R

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  • Birthday 04/17/1968

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    http://www.thefretshack.com
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    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
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  1. Newport Pro Refret Cost?

    If frets 1-12 look like a war zone but frets 13 up look virgin, there is the option of partial refret in the war zone and then a full level, crown and polish. I do partials on a lot of acoustics owned by capo junkies. Note the key word - "acoustics" - in that those guitars just don't get played or played hard in the upper register. May not be an option for you but throwing it out there if applicable. For comparison purposes when you're shopping a fret guy, I clock at the $350 ballpark for a bound rosewood board with "you call" fret size and a new matched bone nut, and fret nibs go adios buh-bye when I do 'em.
  2. Close ... that was a vintage MXR Envelope Filter. This does just as good a job, however, without the crazy vintage price tag the old MXR box carries nowadays.
  3. A neck reset that involves possible heel and/or body pocket angle-corrective woodwork, plus at least spot binding replacement, plus a proper refin, plus fretwork? Is a simple full refund and you returning the guitar an option?
  4. Boss T-Wah pedal, MIJ February '83, funkiest pick-sensitive wakka wakka wakka box on the planet. I will take it over ANY treadled wah, booteek or otherwise, any day of the week. My Geoffrey Teese wah sits collecting dust. Edited to add ... the actual oldest pieces of gear I use are my '55 LP Junior and my slightly older Harmony "Archtone" F-hole archtop.
  5. BEST PLAYING GUITAR? Hmmmmmm.........

    Gap between bottom of unfretted string and apex of 12th fret: Treble "E," 2/64"; Bass "E", 3/64." The beauty of a humongous fret is liquid low effortless action under the fingertips but enough airspace between the string, frets and the fretboard surface to get your fingers around and "under" the strings (if that makes sense) for bending and especially vibrato with control and authority.
  6. Paint repair

    In my experience with a CA glue clearcoat repair, it works best on shallow clearcoat dings on flat surfaces. On edges and bevels, it's very hard to keep the CA glue in the target area as you build it up and then it's delicate and difficult to shape a non-flat surface with the taped razor blade without tearing all or part of the patch out or chattering it. Since the original finish is nitro and nitro typically kinda dissolves or melts into and cauterizes itself, and because of those CA challenges I mentioned, I think the nitro pens are the better option for the topcoat. Murkat Jay was spot on - time and patience. This is the kind of job that you'll do a little every day or two for a couple weeks if you want satisfactory results.
  7. Paint repair

    On ding/dent repair ... I make sure to assess people's expectations on finish repair before I take on those tasks. Totally invisible repairs that can pass all tests an OCD-plagued client's eyes and fingertips might execute are pretty rare, and anyone who comes in with those tendencies and sought results, I usually don't take the job because neither myself nor anyone else will likely be able to please them. Go into the task with an appropriate mindset and reasonable expectations as far as results - this is a patch, not a pro refin in both the task itself and $$$ investment. Considering the depth and scope of your gash, taken on as a first-timer DIY job at that, I'd say undetected from a few feet away would be a win. I've used the ReRanch and StewMac touch up pens with very good results. I've also had good fortune matching vivid colors like that Italian racing red with the Testors plastic model car and plane enamel paints in the tiny little bottles. I haven't had compatibility issues to date. Whichever route you go, you'll have to patiently build up the color in a few layers over a few days of multiple applications. It doesn't take many layers of color to get rich color, and we let the clear be the crater's "fill". Also, thin layers will stay in the "craters" of the dings and also help you maintain the line where the red and black meet when it comes time to make that distinction. I'd do the red first and then the black, with some nice pinstriping tape with an exacto and a fresh blade for it handy to get as crisp a line as possible when it comes time to remove that tape. For the clearcoat, StewMac sells an "aged clear lacquer" touch up pen ("aged," not "amber," the latter is too orange for this task) that may be just hued just enough to match any subtle yellowing your topcoat has acquired over the last 30 years. "Aged" or a true "clear" is for your eyes to assess. Again apply patiently in layers, like a layer a day, and gradually build up flush to a very, very subtle mound within the crater. DON'T use the lacquer pen tip as the "brush," it is too difficult to control the flow and you will at some point gloop out a blob of lacquer that will create a big mess and more headaches. I warm (not "cook") the paint pen in a pot of water on a stovetop so it will flow thinly, extract a glob of the lacquer into a tilted small glass baby food jar and apply with a small artist brush. After the clear layers are down, let it cure for a least a week so it doesn't smear or drag during leveling and buffing out. For that process, I'd first wetsand briefly and GENTLY using nice auto finish grade 400, 600, 800 and 1000 grit wet/dry paper, then use SM's micromesh pads going through all the fine grades, and then close it out with a soft cotton cloth and Formula 1 Scratch Out, a easy to use poor man's 3M Finesse-style polishing compound available at any chain auto parts store. The wetsanding and micromeshing in particular are where you can erase your previous work (literally) and basically make or break this job. Look for videos on wetsanding guitar finishes on YouTube to get a better idea of the process, preparing and using your wetsand papers, what you will see occur during wetsanding (clouding), and potential pitfalls. And if you want to get some experience and confidence, go get a beat up pawn shop cheapo electric and practice wetsanding on that first!
  8. Cali Body Size?

    Don't know if this sheds any relevant light, but I recently exchanged e-mails with Jol and he very, very nicely gave me all the information he had on my VR Centaurafornian custom job, from personal recollection to all the log book data. My VR's body is officially listed as "Stevens Dinky Strat" with added scalloped cutaways noted on the work order. Charvel created the "dinky" strat and if my Charvel history recollection is up to snuff, the dinky was first created by taking 1/4" off the entire around edge of a stock strat body. Basically the greatly beveled edge of an old strat body removed, then replaced with a more subtle, sharper bevel (think Ibanez RG). A Soloist is that same alteration formula, just neck-thru construction. I don't know if that transcribes to a 7/8 scale body, but that's physically how the first conversions of stock strat bodies into dinkies went down.
  9. BEST PLAYING GUITAR? Hmmmmmm.........

    Best playing guitar I've ever owned was an early 2000s Parker Fly Deluxe in "Majik Blue." The guitar was actually too perfect, it not only played itself effortlessly, sounded great and versatile and never went out of tune even when going to town on the non-locking trem, it weighed five featherweight pounds. It was too toyish compared to my traditional guitars and I felt it was better to retain my bond with the old designs rather than embracing the "out there" modern space age stuff. My trusty '96 G&L Legacy has always been a sick player, but earlier this year I refretted her with 58118s (very jumbos), crisped up her 12" radius, and did an oil finish on the trunk of the neck akin to old skool San Dimas Charvels. This guitar was always comfy like an old pair of jeans, now it's got sick low action coupled with tall'uns for as effortless playing as one could want or need.
  10. #0066 - An illustrated journal...

    Man, if that's not your favorite and the flagship of your collection, send it to me so it can be the favorite and flagship of mine. Wow, simply wow!
  11. PICKUP GEEK ALERT!

    Good call. I almost always go an out of phase sound for that middle position. Not only in LPs but in most 2H guitars, it seems once I set the bridge pickup (my primary one) to my tastes and then set the neck pickup to match the bridge in volume/perceived output, the "both" position is inevitably a repeat of one of the "only" positions and basically a useless, wasted position. On the other hand, if I intentionally set in-phase pickups to get three unique tones, one or both of the "only" positions sounds like meh vanilla whatever. I don't use the middle out of phase a lot, but a position used sparingly beats a position that's useless and subsequently never used at all.
  12. Whatsit called? Velocity or attack controlled gain?

    Aural exciter? I read "opposite of compression" and this was the first thing that came to mind. I don't know if an AE will do exactly what you're describing, but I'll throw it out there. I know I had an Aphex rackmount AE probably 25 years ago that was nice for hi-fi'ing the tone of my Boogie half stack when used at non-arena volumes.
  13. Mesa amps

    I don't think you can go wrong with either. If they don't both have the onboard five-band slider EQ (I consider that a necessity for any older Boogie), I'd get the one that has it. If they both have EQ, I'd get the Mark III personally for the "deep" push-pull (I don't think the .22 has that) and the sweet layer of phat and boom the "deep" control adds to all sounds, which is particularly nice if we're talking combos and even nicer if you want to thicken up strat and tele tones on the fly. Plus big wattage equates to big clean headroom, which is always nice for pedals. Sounds like both amps are older, you may want to be thinking now about a TLC/checkup for whichever you get and if so, sending it back to Boogie for them to do the work. I've sent two or three amps to Petaluma over the years and they have been great to work with, their prices were in line with what I'd pay a typical reputable amp repair guy and it's only fair to assume that since they designed and built the amps, they know their circuits, have OEM components or suitable value/quality replacements, etc. Plus they can mod their circuits a little to better hit your expectations and wish list (keep reading) For what it's worth, I've owned a Mark II, I think five or six Mark IIIs, three Mark IVs, one Mark V and an assortment of Dual Recs, Rectoverbs and Tremoverbs. I deduced over many years of ins-and-outs that the Mark IIIs are my favorite for my ears, hands and tastes. My current and last Mark III (Jan. 1990 green stripe) was sent back to the factory and they re-capped it, they replaced whatever had dried out or drifted over time, added a dedicated R2 volume on the back panel (STELLAR mod) and completely overhauled the reverb circuit (down to a new tank) to make it more akin to what's in the Lone Star circuit. Turn time from factory arrival to factory expedite was about a week or so.
  14. Duesenberg guitars?

    Just scanned the parts/tools page at Rockinger ... that sure does look like the Hamer OEM, doesn't it? https://www.rockinger.com/index.php/en/Truss-Rod-Wrench-for-Gibson/c-WG921/a-00W87
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