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Andrew last won the day on February 16 2014

Andrew had the most liked content!

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About Andrew

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    Veteran HFCer
  • Birthday 03/01/1912

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  • Location
    Birmingham, UK
  • Interests
    Hamer Guitars

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  • guitars
  • amps
    Has lots of knobs, don't know what they do.
  • fx
    Standing near the PC monitor to get a good hum!

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  1. Just a reminder - all rosewoods (even the tiny piece on a fret-board) are now subject to CITES restrictions and export/import certification will be required.
  2. Help identifying Hamer USA Guitars

    The first one is a1993 Archtop Studio in 59 'Burst. The design went through several names, but the unbound ones started around 1993, and are always called "Studios". Only the earliest bound ones (c1991) are called "Sunburst Archtop". Second one is a 1993 P-90 Special, colour is indeed TV yellow.
  3. There a few old ones here: http://www.buddlejagarden.co.uk/hamer/other.htm I have more to add some day, and also I should update the format - very 1990s.
  4. I have had a problem - the grey foam is degrading in a couple of flight-cases, expensive pro-cases too. It's become nasty. friable and corrosive, little pellets of sticky foam eating into the nitro-cellulose - but don't panic, I saved the guitars in time, just a couple of tiny marks. Another year and the finish would have been stained and pitted and ruined I need the case. I don't want to use the grey foam again as the same will happen. My plan is to use fire-retardant furniture foam covered by fur fabric - like a standard case. So my question is: is this best, or do I still need a foam without fire-retardant as these might react with the nitro-finish, even through the fur fabric? Have you had the same problem? Any advice on re-fitting the case.
  5. Has the yellow one lost its fret-board binding nubbins? It looks very familiar.
  6. Yes, these are the stock pickups for 1984 Hamer basses - Dimarzio-made Hamer pickups, although any difference from the standard Dimarzio model will be slight to non-existent - some have exposed pole-pieces, but the full covers are more normal from 1983 onwards.
  7. Andrew

  8. At least 10 of these, maybe more. I have a list here: http://www.buddlejagarden.co.uk/hamer/millreg.htm Article here: http://www.buddlejagarden.co.uk/hamer/miller.htm
  9. No one notice the "certificate" is from such an "expert" it says "signed by… Dave Holland"? Well, he left before Painkiller (1989). And "Nonce" Holland was in prison during 2005.
  10. I had a bran-new Special FM with trem-spaced poles on the treble pickup (a "JB" TB4 I believe) - definitely original. Seems they just did that sometimes and with the TOM string spacing seems to work fine.
  11. Some of the early Scarabs had mahogany necks - you can't tell from the chip under the logo because moggy necks always had the headstock faced in maple. The necks also tend to be a little larger. The reason I say this is that most maple necks shows some lacquer cracking on the rear of the headstock, and this one doesn't.
  12. Take one standard Floyd arm. Cut the thread to nearer the shoulder/bend (I think the thread is M6, do double check). Screw a 10mm nut onto arm up to the top of the thread (now nearer the shoulder). Place a nylon washer on the thread. Pass arm through the block. Add another nylon washer to the underneath where the arm comes through. Screw on a 10mm Ny-loc nut. Tighten to desired tension - Ny-loc nuts do not work loose. (This is exactly how the originals were fitted except they were some funny nut/thread size.) Et voila. One faux SB Trem arm, no mods to the block.
  13. Black Metalflake. Rosewood board - CITES ALERT! International may be more difficult now.
  14. Original Hamer Website

    Try wayback machine: http://web.archive.org/web/20161022205249/http://www.hamerguitars.com/ The last catalogue is here: http://www.buddlejagarden.co.uk/hamer/2009cata.pdf
  15. I have an '81 Vector with it, somewhere around the third or fourth fret, and it rattles on open strings hit hard. Not a big problem, but… irritating. Anyway, my advice was that either the channel was oversize or the plastic sheath had split - although I thought Hamer truss rods did not have a sheath. The cure is drastic - possibly injecting some sort of filler into the channel, possibly through the dot-maker hole (marker removed) on the third fret. Haven't tried this, though. Not yet. Do you think it would work?