Jump to content
Hamer Fan Club Message Center

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

bobb

Those Switchcraft Longreach Jacks

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys:

I know this topic has been addressed a couple of times - I searched barrel jacks.

I need to replace a Switchcraft long reach jack in my Artist Custom.

From the pictures, it looks like there's a fine knurled edge on the outside and a hex nut on the inside.

How do you get into the jack cavity to grab that hex nut?

I've checked Stewmac for tools, done Internet searches, checked Youtube - the whole 9 yards but I can't figure out how to get the old jack OUT much less get a new jack IN.

Please share your secrets.

Thanks,

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to drill the last one out, as you've found out the nut is almost impossible to get a grip on.

Buy a replacement first so you can judge the size drill you need (large) and drill it out from the outside.

I think I worked my way up the drill sizes I had around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take a pic of your control cavity. Not sure where the problem is, so i have to be missing it. Below is a pic from a 2001 Artist that i replaced the jack on:

01_Artist-18.jpg

I unsolder the ground from the pot first and unsolder the output lead. An open ended wrench should fit in there. Once the nut is loose, it should easily spin off and the jack just slides out. Note the outer rim is part of the barrel, it will not turn. If you have a particularly stubborn jack that will not break free, you can try a reamer or a simple flathead screwdriver stuffed into the jack to help you get a grip. This is an "all in" moment, as the old jack will likely be munged beyond use after that, so make sure your replacement is the right part. :)

I have a jack to replace on a Mirage - i can record the procedure if you need it.

Good luck!

ETA - just saw Cynic's post - love that easy out tool. I'll have to look into one of those... :) Sounds like that is what you may be looking for. I have a reamer that i've used for this in the past to do this part if the nut just won't turn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Veatch:

I will double check and post photo tonight.

As I recall, only the terminals of the jack were exposed - the rest of the jack was inside the body, the nut was not exposed.

Thanks for the photo.

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd love to see that pic. The only jacks i've seen recessed from the cavity are the ones using the Tele style cup - but those aren't barrel jacks.

Of course, there are more Hamers i haven't seen than ones that i have seen... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Veatch:

You are correct, the control cavity is very similar to yours.

post-1608-0-53352500-1419382759_thumb.jp

I haven't disconnected the jack yet, but my open end Craftsman 9/16" doesn't fit in there very well.

I guess my new question is, aside from the tool in Cynic's post, is there a tool to grab the knurled outside edge of the jack?

Also, has anyone tried the Stewmac jack wrench? It's supposed to extra narrow and extra thin.

Thanks for all your replies, guys.

I'll post again when I get the replacement jack.

BTW, here's the top

post-1608-0-84556700-1419383258_thumb.jp

Thanks.

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gorgeous top!

I would probably go "Primitive Pete" on it and use a small flat head screwdriver on a corner of the nut and lightly tap it with a small hammer. You likely know what i mean, but it's hard to describe. Basically, the force of the blow should be in line with one of the flat edges as close to the corner as you can get. That should break it loose.

As far as tools to hold the barrel, i doubt you will need to - i usually just loosen from the inside. But if you have to, anything that you can stuff in there that keeps it from turning. :) I have a reamer that fits, effectively the same idea as the tool that cynic posted - looks a little like this, but not as long:

Taper_reamer_K-442.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to add - the thought of using a reamer and a hammer on a finished guitar just makes me cringe...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude,

You trashed the guitar, but that is ok. I'll give you the Earl Scheib price of $29.95 for the guitar.

Merry Merry Happy Happy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×