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hamerhead

Who has used Tru Oil?

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Asking for a friend....

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sure you are.

For what purpose?

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I've used it on two guitars and love it. Whadya need to know about it?

Some interesting stuff I discovered about Tru Oil when using it:

1. Very easy to work with and relatively difficult to screw up if applied/handled properly.

2. If applied over aniline dye, it reactivates and "carries" the dye a bit to help you even out the colour or even do blending (i.e. burst finishes)

3. You can dye the Tru-Oil itself with artist oil paints, which is really cool. (NOTE: don't try this if you have used shellac as wood sealer/grain filler - you'll get very uneven results).

4.  You can apply 3-4 coats per day, but it won't be completely dry to the touch for about 48 hrs after the final coat.  It'll take about 2-3 months to become 90% cured and probably about a yr before it's fully cured.  Once cured, it feels and acts almost like nitro, though it will be much less likely to check the same way nitro can. 

5. Tru-Oil finishes can be removed apparently.

DSC_0026.JPG

Edited by gtone
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I assume we're talking necks. Watco Danish oil fan myself.

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I have used it a lot on archery bows I have made...as others said easy to work with.

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I actually just finished a guitar yesterday with it. I'm letting it sit for a week or two then  buff it. It is really easy to work with. However, this is the first time I've tried anything like this and have no experience with it so the finish is not perfect by any means. Guitar looks a lot better than it did though.

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Last I checked, it is still the standard finish for maple ernie ball music man necks. Wipe on, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe off, let try. Then a day later some gunstock wax. That is the "hand rubbed oil and wax blend" they use.

I've got two EBMM basses, and one guitar. I love the feel on maple necks.

If you are going to do a body with it, I would suggest putting on a bunch of layers. You can sand it to get a great semi gloss, or even a gloss.

For their oil finishes and maple necks, carvin instead uses Minwaxes "tung oil" finish, which has some tung oil but also other stuff.

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58 minutes ago, tbonesullivan said:

Last I checked, it is still the standard finish for maple ernie ball music man necks. Wipe on, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe off, let try. Then a day later some gunstock wax. That is the "hand rubbed oil and wax blend" they use.

I've got two EBMM basses, and one guitar. I love the feel on maple necks.

If you are going to do a body with it, I would suggest putting on a bunch of layers. You can sand it to get a great semi gloss, or even a gloss.

For their oil finishes and maple necks, carvin instead uses Minwaxes "tung oil" finish, which has some tung oil but also other stuff.

I think I'm up to 16 light coats on the body. I started with one coat of Minwax Special Walnut stain, then one coat of Boiled Linseed Oil (probably should've done the BLO first) then the Tru-oil. Not sure yet what I'm going to buff and polish it with yet. Still debating on what to do with the neck and what pickguard will go with it.

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All I can tell you is it's banned in California (damn it). Not sure how EBMM uses it on their necks.

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Ugh. I am glad that while NJ is insane, they are not as insane as CARB, the California Air Resources Board. According to Birchwood Casey, tru-oil shouldn't be banned based on the current laws, but CARB thought differently. They really are a bunch of idiots sometimes. I know that California had REALLY BAD pollution and smog issues near their large cities, but it seems like the considerations for super high population density areas apply to the whole BIG AS HELL state.

Why you can get SPRAY PAINT which unleashes a huge amount of VOCs and other crap into the air but can't get tru-oil? Who the hell knows.

Either way, as a large company, they probably are under a different type of environmental regulation. This is why Fender can still play around with Nitro.

Edited by tbonesullivan

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