Anyone know of a luthier that could chamber this thing without ruining the finish, if that’s even possible?

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I am shopping for a modeler for use at home.  IF (big if) I ever wanted to inflict my musical stylings on an unprepared world, I'd expect I would use it there, too, but that's not the main purpose.

What difference would it make to me, in either case, if it was modeled to be "live" sounding, or "recorded" sounding?  And which particular brands/products produce which sounds?

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Leaving effects aside for now, I see that some of them allow you to build modeled signal chains that take your guitar input and run it through an amp sim and a cabinet sim on the way out to something that will make the noise.  To that point, it should be a "live" sound, to my reading.  Some of them allow a further application of a microphone sim, which I suppose would tend toward the "recorded" sound, although by the time I hear something recorded it has been committed to tape or run through A/D, processed through a recording board and later through a mixing board, and committed to the playback medium and pumped through whatever playback system I am using, each element of which presumably has a signal response bandwidth of its own which has the potential to affect the sound that reaches my ears.  Hearing AC/DC in my car is not the same as standing next to Malcolm's amp cabinet, got it, but which should I be after in my home?  Or does it matter?

I'm lost in the sauce.  What I know is that I don't care for the sounds of my 12+ year old Line6 Floor Pod and I hear that the intervening years have produced great strides in modeling quality.  I want to divorce the loudness in my subdivision home from the knob settings on the virtual amps in the modeler.  I can decide for myself whether I want to commit to this or that proprietary software format for adding new sounds according to the value the developer offers with additional package, the vigor of the user community, etc.  I suspect I am like most people in that even if there are several dozen modeled amp choices available in a given system, I will settle down on a couple or three that I like and never touch the others again, so it only matters if a product has those two or three that I can enjoy.  Demoing candidates before purchase is another matter, of course, which I why I want to try to figure out what is worth my attention and what isn't.

Thanks!

I haven't played the amp much lately as the 2 amp fuse keeps blowing - it won't reset. Someone mentioned that one of the tubes must have blown. How do I check this? How do I remedy the situation?

Thanks in advance,

I teach yoga several times a week and I have ~50 one hour song lists assembled for classes.
Also I have several song lists for my workouts, runs, etc.
Along with that is the 10,000 or so songs in my iTunes/Apple Music inventory.

Lots of this was assembled back when I had an iPhone (for work) and, of course working in concert with the Mac computer was seamless.

Fast Forward to present day.

I no longer have an iPhone (as I no longer have a job) and as we all know, Apple does not like to play nice with others, specifically Android phones.
Sure, you can use Apple Music on your Android phone with a monthly subscription, but I'll be damned if I pay Apple every month to listen to music that I already own.

So this is what I need:

I need an application that will allow me to import all of my music, create playlists, and load those playlists to be loaded/imported onto my Android phone.

Important points:

• App must be free. Free to download and not subscription based.
• App must work with Android (obviously)
• App can be Mac or Windows based

Let's hear it, HFC Experts!

Standard drop 150 ohm? I asked Peavey no response so far.

this little brass plate fell out from somewhere, the guitar setup just fine, but there's this mystery, what is this from/for?

The ones I am eying are not Hamers, so not planning to fool with FS threads here.  There's a guitar dealer locally that I want to approach with the idea of taking the haircut but avoiding all the online sales to the public stuff that I see so much complaint about here and elsewhere, but I need to know the market first.  To that end:  

I'm using the Sold listing filters for Reverb and eBay to get an idea of what similar-ish guitars have traded for recently, to the extent that they may show the actual sale price instead of the last advertised price before the ad was closed; I don't know what I don't know there.  Way back before Reverb you could use some browser trickery to get eBay to reveal the winning bid price that they didn't want to show to casual lookie-loos, but I don't know how it is now.

Is there any other online source I should be checking to try to discover sale prices?  Or any other source these days?  I did RTFF back for at least a couple of years and didn't see any direct discussion on price discovery, but I vacuumed up any mention of non-Hamer pricing (which is done directly here) that I found.

Thanks for any help thrown my way.

I've got my Charvel San Dimas set up with a D-Tuna, using a trem block like this: 

The problem I'm having is it makes a lot of noise when the Floyd is returned to pitch quickly. I need to have the spring tension be a bit heavy to keep the block from rattling against the stop (which is plastic). It also makes for slightly easier double stop bends etc. The bar then becomes a PITA to use because there's no room for finesse. No nuances or subtle techniques because I'm "muscling" the bar down. 

So, what's the answer to the conundrum of how to have the D-Tuna remain functional and still have adequate play to the bridge?

I am generally content to work the guitar's volume knob for dynamics, but I now find myself doubling on some synth duties and am considering a volume pedal to delegate that task. 

I have never purchased a volume pedal but have read that they can negatively impact overall tone - trust me, I don't need anything to negatively impact anything guitar related.

I've seen (JHS, for example) modified volume pedals and I have seen active volume pedals, both of which claim to mitigate the negatives.

Anyone have experience with these and willing to make a recommendation?

I am still not sold on adding another component to my now stripped-down setup, but I do tend to ponder rather than practice...

If anyone has a USA 3Hole Duotone that they don't mind taking pictures of their innards please place them here or PM them to me. I also need close ups of the volume and tone circuit board.

Also if any one knows of a schematic that would really be cool for the acoustic preamp board.

Thanks!!!

Jeff

I looked, couldn’t find (yet) - what is the Hamer spec for string height at the first fret? Or another measure of nut slot depth.  I found a general internet AI response saying 0.010” to 0.020”, E to E. One measurement method is feeler gauges, others press at the first or third fret. Whatever way you should really do it.

I found the Hamer fret wire spec, but not sure regarding profile versus a 1973 Gibson Les Paul fret. I’ll need to check what was used for the LP refret, but it is “smoother” than the Hamer, more square. Was there much variation between Hamer fret dress coming out of the factory? I’m considering having the frets lightly dressed but unsure how much difference that would make. Certainly not worth a refret just to see and the current ones have low miles. And, binding.

Since I bought it, I have never seen another for sale.  Cals are rarely up for sale, but the Deluxe is non-existent.  There are not even many pictures of one when I Google it.  It is shown in an old catalogue I have from the late 1980's.  Question:  Does anyone know how many were made?  Also, any info on the midrange control would be appreciated.  (A schematic would be awesome).  It seems to add a nice but subtle grind to the output.  Very cool guitar.  Anyway, thanks in advance.

As far as I can see the wiring is all original.

Was this the usual wiring for a TLE? I know that some older Hamers were also wired out of phase.

I guess I can just change the wires of the middle pickup to have the 'normal' sounds (although I will have to add a 'patch cable' as the cable is cut short and it won't reach the pickup selector).

Thank you!

1. Are there any other checks I should do?
2. Any recommendations for where to get it re-coned?  Especially if the could check magnet strength?
3. Ball-park cost for a recone? I’m sure shipping is expensive due to weight.

I'm looking on Amazon and reading reviews, there's a whole lot that get good reviews, prices all over the place, I'm currently leaning towards the Linsoul Kiwi ears Cadenza ii. Really good reviews and $45

other suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GD5XQ96R/ref=twister_B0GD55WYZP?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

I'd attempt to repair it myself however, without opening it, I'm  guessing parts are much too tiny with SMD technology

Or is there another way to lose that harshness from the current pickup?

What say ye?

The spacing on the 78 in between the strings is much wider, to the point where you notice that the high and low E strings are off center to the poles of the bridge pick up and it also seems to mean that both E strings are closer to the edge on the fretboard than on the Specials/ the Shishkov.

Why is that?

The string / pole correnspondence  is much better with the later sustain blocks but I get the feeling the extra space on the 1978 comes in handy when picking strings (I feel less clumsy). The difference between the width of all six strings on the 78 (wider) and the 81 (narrower) ist almost 5mm altogether.