stonge

sometimes the screw threads get just a little worn and don't hold the block solidly. I've installed some fresh new screws and that's helped a couple of times (it's a pretty standard problem on those Schallers - the newer ones had a replaceable nut that you could know out of the baseplate and swap. if you can find one of those baseplates it's probably the best solution). let me check the parts pile and see if i can find some new screws (mcmaster-carr sells them in boxes of 100) and if i can find some I'll drop a few sets in the mail to you. problem is i always buy a box of 100, use a dozen or two then misplace the rest then reorder and do the same thing all over again lol...

I thought they claimed to shave a pound or two off. The diff between 11 or 9 pounds is a lot if you're playing 4 sets lol. I loaned my 5ver out to darc, but the tone made up for the weight (the 3 inch wide padded strap helps too).

i think that was what they called the Stealth model with the ebony on black cosmetics. supposedly the recent ones with the roasted necks are a little lighter than most. I have a 5 string with the solid rosewood neck, and that's the only low B i've ever been able to get along with. Cool score.

Usually they charge you more for finish checking lol. Cool score!

I have a Classic model with the trem, and it sounds a lot better to me after swapping the aluminum trem block(1 ounce) to a brass block (3 or 4 ounces). Got the action down to .030 at the highest frets on all strings and it's playing faster than I can play lol. Someday I'd like to get a hard tail strandberg to see if that has a little more thump to the notes.

"you say Korina, I say Korea..." sometimes a couple of letters make all the difference lol

looks like an import to me...

my main bass with the irish band is a Squier that i picked up used for $140. I prefer the P bass pickup with a Jazz bass pickup in the bridge, and the J neck is skinnier at the nut (a big chunky P bass neck is a bit of work to play in the first 3 frets which is all you pretty much need for irish music lol).

There are a few shops selling "open box" or "b stock" to get around minimum advertised price restrictions. I've gotten a few "open box" guitars that were still in the factory packaging.

My white zendrive from the last sns just landed Thursday (surprise-it sounds like the black zendrive turned down a notch or two lol). Now an sns shows up with variations on a few of my other LPs? Im sure they sound good, but i dunno if I need all the baseball cards lol. Already did that with Wampler lol.

I sold a 2002 Standard Custom in natural with a chevron top and gold hardware for $4K in June of 2020. https://reverb.com/item/34210448-hamer-standard-custom-usa-2002-natural-w-gold-hardware-and-ohsc I have no idea on more recent pricing because I still have my Shishkov Ultimate and that covers the requirement quite nicely.

So I pulled a 1980 Special out of the basement for a long overdue cleanup, and was looking at the saddles on the sustainblock bridge. The saddles that are on there look different than most of the saddles I've seen. The saddles in question are the ones that are strung up, and there is a later model saddle places over the G string sales for comparison. The questionable saddles have the radiused circle at the front of the saddles without a string ramp, and the later model has the raised circle in the middle of the saddles and has the cast radiused string ramp. From the book, some of the early sustainblock bridges had Mighty Mite saddles and I'm wondering if that's what I'm looking at here.

do you think the back cover is big enough to cover up the route for a volume control and a switch?

I have used the StewMac shims on a couple of different guitars and basses with good results. I had a EVH star where the action around the 18th fret was about .060 off the fingerboard so I dropped in a 1/2 degree shim that dropped the action back down to .030 or so and made it easier to play (I put the fat side toward the body and the headstock kicked back enough to fix the action). Mass-produced bolt-ons are all manufactured to tolerances on the neck routing, neck thickness and there are a range of combos that would cause different angles in the bridge/body/neck/string geometry. A good luthier would be tweaking the build for playability, but some guitars are just assembled with minor tweakage (as long as they hit basic parameters they are shippable but not optimized for the best possible action). Another case I'm finding to be unfortunately common is that 80's bolt-on shredders tend to have a little settling between the bridge/locking nut/neck joint. I usually have to shim the locking nut base to get the strings over the first fret due to settling of the base. The neck angle can also change a little (cranking down hard of the bolts could be compressing either the neck or the material in the neck pocket). I've got a Washburn N4 where the neck has settled and the fingerboard points right at the neck pickup so the action above the 12fret is great for slide but not much else. That's going to be a fun fix since the Stephens cutaway uses a very different geometry for the neck pocket so getting that headstock to kick back will be interesting...

I picked up one of those $50 Amazon wireless units after my dog managed to tangle himself up somehow in a 30 ft cable and drag a half dozen wamplers off the desk. It works OK a room or two away from the amp but I'd never trust it at a gig. The places where my band gigged were the kind where you had to put the tables back at the end of the night, so I never got more than 3ft away from my amp and pedalboard lol.