mathman

sounds amazing

Well, quickly realized why that won't work. Tailpiece has a large opening for the two higher octave strings and a smaller for the low octave string. Flipping the taillpiece changes the order and it won't match the tuners any longer. So, back to other methods.

Actually, I think I could do this and not drill new screw holes and have it lay flat. Is that extra half inch going to affect anything as far as intonation or tuning? I don't think it would since the bridge will not move. The strings will be a little bit longer so slightly less tension but would it be enough to matter?

Winner, winner, Chicken Dinner! So, while I had great fun playing this beast it required constant re-tuning. So, either the tuners are bad (probably cheap) or the tailpiece is not holding steady. So, yea, not great tuners but the tail piece has definitely dug into the body. The screws appear to be more like sheet metal than wood screws. Not much thread if you know what I mean. Definitely a dent in the body. Wondering if just a simple metal plate under the bridge would make it stable. I will be honest. I am not so concerned with how it looks as to how it plays. Pics.

I bought the T7 version 4 years ago. Great sounding monitors. Also added their subwoofer.

Too bad about the signature…. jk 🤣 I know some people love autographs and some people don’t. ymmv

Well I got the basic wiring done but the main volume pot I bought won’t fit now that the pickup wires are ran through the body. Beginner mistake. The pot fit without the pickup wire pushed through but the outlet opening is right beside the pot. Bought a smaller pot that will be here tomorrow.

22 or 47? does it really matter?

Some waiting photos...from it's previous life.

I know that some capacitors can wear out. (See home A/C system). Is that an issue with a guitar? As with much of the inter webs lots of pontification about knowledge but not always providing knowledge. Seems the use rate of a tone pot capacitor is way different than the capacitor starting your compressor. So, wanting the knowledge of esteemed guitar gurus of HFC... Reuse the old capacitors or buy new. I think after exploring the interwebs, I am not putting a capacitor on the volume pot for now. (if my inquiries are getting tedious, feel free to ignore or make fun of them.) either way is good! I am waiting on parts for a project I started years ago. It is what it is at this point....

The layout is not optimal for that. Too far to reach volumes

I can agree but the layout of the pots don't really work for that. maybe I could get a special pull push pot that works as volume for both pickups.... Lots of shit is possible but I've only replaced pickups (once) and input jacks (few times) at this point. KISS method going on here. 😀

Got my cardboard template setup. And a better picture of the guitar.

Putting in new pots and new 3 way. 3 way will be here later. The original wiring had a 4.7nF (0.0047uF ) capacitor on what I think was the tone pots. Should I put them back on the new setup? I also have one that the google says is a Cornell Dubilier (CDE) 715P Series Orange Drop® film capacitor. I think it is 47uf also. The google says these are generally for single coils but will be humbuckers. Should I use them on the tones? Should I consider one on the volume pot? supposedly keeps the highs when you lower volume. Definitely something I do when playing.

Currently trying to figure out how to wire this oldie but cheapie. My friend did a refinish job. I just told him to do as he wished. I bought it for $100 at a guitar store in Gainesville Florida in 1984. Actually played pretty good. Palmer V. not a great picture...

Also, I was considering creating a wood template to do the wiring but the cardboard box is a better idea at this point. Thanks again. HFC is the best palace on the internets..... err spelling.... Or maybe not! 😀

Thanks for this. You are right the switch hole is definitely larger. I think I am going to get a new three way switch and just stick to the single volume and two tone with 3 way switch that is came with.

Thanks, but I guess my ignorance is demonstrating my ignorance! hahahah.

Well, my ignorance is apparent to me now. I thought I could just add a second volume and not have the three way switch. All the wirings that I seem to find all seem to include the switch. So I will just stick to the single volume, 3 way and two tones. Thanks for the help!

Wiring a cheap Palmer V. So, I am finally getting around to trying to wire an old cheap Palmer V that my good friend did a refinish job on. I bought some Seymour Duncans here on the HFC and I am finally getting ready to put it together. It originally had a single volume with switch and two tones. I am thinking two volumes and two tones. Any pluses or minus either way? Never completely wired a guitar before so this is a new adventure. Any advice or tips and trick. I do have a nice soldering setup.

I have to admit my creativity has waned as of late but buying this bass has made me want to write songs again. Will be a while before I get it all going but I am also stoked to finally getting my hip issues improved. So the joy of skateboarding again mixed with a bucket list bass means I am playing it everyday. Trying to jam through some ideas for a song. Just a short little jam as I try to find my voice with this bass.

These are awesome guitars. Will never part with mine. Mine's logo is not nearly that big. It is a red 84.

Don't have any idea if that would be cheap trick or a tribute band but the original band is still touring and only Bun. E is no longer in the band. Daxx, Rick's son is now the drummer.

So, the bass had no case. It is about the same size as my Fender Bullet bass so I am hoping this gig bag deal for the stupid deal will hold it. https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/gator-gt-bass-tpv2-transit-pro-bass-guitar-gig-bag/l96285000001000

I have some checkerboard duck tape. Got to get it work on mine to increase the value 4 to 5 times!…