Jump to content
Hamer Fan Club Message Center


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by crunchee

  1. 23 hours ago, Nathan of Brainfertilizer Fame said:

    In chasing my Guitar Lust, I sold pretty much everything, always trying to try something else.

    While there are some exceptions in my collection, I pretty much have centered on non-locking trem and fixed bridge Super Strats.  Hamer seems to be more on the Gibson side, and the super strats are mostly double locking.  The handful of double-locking trem superstrats are higher-end Yamahas, which I like a little better than Hamer, and are anywhere between 1/3 and 1/4 the price.  But, of course, without most of the figured wood and boomerang bling.

    If I ever stumble on a Diablo for really cheap, I'll get one. And I have a Vintage S on the way, so I think that will do me for Hamer.


    Welcome back!  It kinda sounds like you need a Tele in the mix, too.

    • Thanks 1

  2. 14 hours ago, Nathan of Brainfertilizer Fame said:

    I've stopped trying to find the perfect guitar and the perfect amp.

    Good enough really is good enough now.

    I want to shed more gear, but "Ooh! It's rare!" or "Ooh! it plays better than guitars 3x its price!" is making me hesitate.

    I truly have a collection of difficult-to-replace guitars.  Which makes it hard to let go of a single one.

    But I'm down to 30, and would really like to get down to 20, since there's only 5-6 I would ever gig with under most circumstances.

    Sounds like "The Law Of Diminishing Returns"...if one is good, then two is better.  If two is better, then three is fantastic.  If three is fantastic, then four must be....  I've found that eventually 'more' just winds up being 'more' and not necessarily better, and I've tended to let loose of gear that I don't play or use more and more as time goes by.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  3. 7 hours ago, LucSulla said:

    Those guys are fools, and I'm enjoying watching them get burned.  I sold the Miller Time for $1400 I think to someone using a secondary account on Reverb to mask that they are a gear flipper.  He listed it a week later at something like $2400, and there it has sat for months, along with the other Miller Times around that price.  It's not that I won't sell to a flipper, but if I know that's what they are up to, I tend to stick to my guns a lot harder on my original price than I do with y'all.  Only reason it pisses me off is that I let something go for a deal that is now locked out of the hands of anyone around here who'd like to try one for awhile.  Kinda reminds me of what has happened with Van Winkle whiskey, but I digress. 

    I think the easier opportunities for us normies are gone.  I feel like the USA made pointy guitars were the last thing that you could have picked up 10 to 12 years ago and doubled your money on today.  For instance, Jackson Fusions were going for around $500-$700 back in 2007 and are currently bringing in $1300 - $1600, and we're probably at peak value for those.  

    I think the only way to make money on guitars these days if you're a guy like me who was trying to do it on the side is if you live in a rural area, you can exploit the lack of knowledge (not knowing about forums and Reverb) and superstition (people don't really buy before they can play, that's crazy!) to find good deals on Facebook and Craigslist and then sell them back off on Reverb or eBay for a couple hundred dollars profit on each one if you're smart.  But you'd have to move a lot of those in a month for that to be worthwhile because the margins are small.  I'm not sure it would be worth the time and gas to do it. 

    IMO, the Internet has become the great leveller in 'collectibles' of any type, not just guitars and amps, and Google is my friend...and I don't think there are 'regional' markets or trends anymore, at least not like there used to be.  The real work nowadays for me when looking for gear is in doing online research ('due diligence'), and making sure I don't get ripped off by sellers with inflated prices and items in questionable condition.  Some sellers out there might still hope to find a buyer that'll throw money at them for an item with a vague two-line description, blurry photos and a steep price, like what was happening twenty-five years ago...but that buyer ain't likely to be me.  When I do a search for something being sold (normally on Ebay or Reverb), I enter limits on the prices of things I'm looking for, and I never even see the items that are priced above that.  So, if a seller is selling something at an inflated price, I'm very likely the wrong audience for their sales pitch anyway, and I don't sweat the possibility that I'm gonna miss the snag of a lifetime; because nowadays, 999 times out of a thousand, that ain't gonna happen.  A man's gotta know his limitations.  ;) B) 

    • Like 5

  4. https://www.cbsnews.com/news/monty-python-terry-jones-monty-pythons-flying-circus-life-of-brian/

    Like John Cleese said today on Twitter: "Two down, four to go."

    I'll bet nobody saw anything like this at NAMM:

    Of course, since NAMM was in California, anything's possible:

    I thought about posting a clip of Terry Jones in the 'Mr. Creosote' sketch from The Meaning Of Life, but it might be a little too close to mealtime for some, so I'll leave that to someone else.  ;) :rolleyes:

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
    • Sad 3

  5. My latest purchase was a pre-assembled 'parts' bass...fully loaded body from a Fender 'Road Worn' 60's Jazz Bass, put together by someone else with a fully loaded neck from a Fender Standard Fretless Jazz Bass, all MIM.  I bought it basically at parts value, but I bought it to play (I was looking for a fretless anyway), not really as an investment, and definitely not as a collectible; and it plays, sounds, and looks great!  Besides, I didn't see anything else similar that 'fit the bill' as well as this one did.  Plus, I don't usually like Alder bodies because they dent kinda easy...look Ma, factory relic'd finish on the body, so no worries there!  I like it so much, I'm tempted to get the parts together to make another one!  B)  

    • Like 1

  6. On 1/16/2020 at 7:00 AM, Texsunburst59 said:

    I had an amazing 2019

    I scored this '87 USA Kramer Baretta for $212:


    Scored this '95 PRS Custom 24 10-Top for $1000:


    Scored this '09 Fender Highway 1 Honey Blonde for $100


    Scored this '89 MIJ Charvel 750 XL for $500


    Scored this '98 ESP Horizon for $320


    Found this '76 S.L. Mossman Great Plains for $785


    Scored this '92 Hamer Chapparal  for $190


    Found this '09 Taylor 210 E for $258


    Scored this '05 Gibson LP Studio the last day of 2019 for $286


    Thanks for the pricing info, now I won't pay more than what you did for guitars like those!  "Mr Valentine has set the price."  ;) :lol:

    • Like 3
    • Haha 2

  7. 4 hours ago, gtrdaddy said:

    Oh I know they’re really nothing like the Ferrington from a quality stand point, I was merely commenting on the looks 😉 

    I remember those Kramer Ferrington print ads with Dweezil Zappa in various guitar magazines...if anybody sees Dweezil playing one of these Acoustasonics, especially through a Peavey Wiggy amp, please warn us quickly.

    • Like 2

  8. I had mentioned on the 2019 'Scores And Fails' thread, that I had once returned a used MIK G&L Tribute ASAT Classic that I had bought from a dealer, partly because there were sizeable gaps between the neck and body on both sides of the neck pocket...in other words, the neck didn't fit snugly in the neck pocket, and there was much too much space there for my liking.  I'd always heard that neck pocket fit is important, and a snug neck fit matters. Over the years though, I've seen plenty of bolt-on neck guitars where there were gaps between the neck and body on the sides of the neck pocket, and that they were good candidates for failing the "business card" test, which is: if a business card can fit between the body and neck in the neck pocket, then the gap is too big.  Since it seems to be somewhat common (or at least it used to be, back in the days of slack quality control), and probably more so on cheaper/budget bolt-on necked guitars, two questions:  1.  Does it matter that much, and if so, by how much?; and 2.  What can be done about it, especially if the guitar is otherwise a good one?

    There's several threads about it online, this one that I found on the Telecaster Guitar Forum seems to address it neatly:


    It was mentioned on the Tele forum thread that sheets of wood veneer glued along the sides of the neck pocket might be a good fix.  Has anybody here used wood veneer for this kind of repair, and how did it work out for you?

    BTW, I'm NOT referring to the practice of using shims to correct neck angle on a bolt-on guitar, like Fender once did...that's another, completely different, can of worms.

    I was also reminded of this issue when I first saw this video about a year or two ago, fast forward to about 8:03 and check out the bass side of the guitar neck, where the neck meets the neck pocket/body join area.  Business card?  I think you could probably get a thin Resume in there!  :wacko:  A little later in the video the treble side of the neck/body join can also be seen, with possibly a similar gap there too:


  9. Score: --2014 Fender USA Ltd Ed Sandblasted Tele in Sapphire Blue. 

    --'Parts' Fender MIM Jazz Bass Fretless...complete body from a '60's 'Road Worn' (factory relic'd) JB, complete 2003 'Special Edition' JB Fretless neck.  Neck and body fit just as they should.

    --Made In Canada Mack Skyraider SR-15 Tube Amp Head and matching 1x12" speaker cab.

    --VHT Special 6 Tube Amp Head (not Ultra model).

    Fail: --2000's MIK G&L 'Tribute' ASAT Classic...MFD pickups were too bright and clean for my taste, had gaps between the neck and body in the neck pocket on both sides of the neck, returned.

    It could have been worse:


    • Like 3

  10. Here's mine, 'Fatback'-sized Musikraft roasted figured Maple neck with stainless steel medium jumbo frets and relic'd bound Ash MJT body in Daphne Blue, weight 6.8 lbs. total; TysonTone neck and Lollar bridge P-90's, Glendale bridge, saddles, and string ferrules.  Photos are from DGS where I purchased it, their camera is better than mine.  It's light enough for me to where having Thinline construction isn't really necessary; besides, I'm more of a fan of solid wood, especially Ash:



    Edited to add: I bought this guitar pre-owned (can I really call a pre-relic'd guitar 'used'?), so none of the assembled bits and pieces were my idea, the only change I've done since besides strings (back to thru-body instead of top loading, this Glendale bridge can do both) is replacing the Gibson-style switch surround with a Allparts chromed metal switch surround, to kinda match the hardware.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  11. 11 hours ago, Disturber said:

    I wonder how many parts of wood are glued together under that finish?

    I looked at one of these new Explorers the other week. It had a three or four piece body. Did not look all that great up close. Kinda sloppy put together with very visible seams between the parts.


    5 hours ago, Steve Haynie said:

    Hold a Gibson Explorer in the light to see if the body is truly flat.  Quite often it is not.  Either the wood has settled or the finish has somehow flowed into high and low spots. 

    On a solid color non-transparent finish (or even on a transparent finish), the trick is to look at the reflection of the light in the finish, not just the body itself.  If you see a dead-straight line (or lines, since there may be more than two pieces of wood involved) running the length of the body in the reflection, 99 times out of 100 it's a seam from two pieces of wood glued together under the finish; and keep in mind that there are rarely any dead-straight lines in nature, if not at all.  When I look at any guitar with a solid-color finish I do that.  Once a guitar is glued, assembled, painted, and clear-coated, the finish starts to settle and cure, and it's nearly impossible to hide the seam(s), no matter how many times the wood is sanded and filled.

    • Like 1

  12. 1 hour ago, Mr. Dave said:

    I couldn't see anything on that link you posted re the Jazzmaster, so do you think maybe the Teles are MIJ or MIM?   btw sorry for being dense but what does the 'GAS' abbreviation stand for?

    The MIJ Offset Tele might not be available in the UK, also the USA Fender website might not be reachable from the UK due to marketing restrictions.  Here's a video, it's from 2018, but it's exactly the same guitar:

    Fender's using the fact that it's Made In Japan as part of their marketing for the Offset Tele, at least here in the US.  If the Flame-top Tele you were looking at didn't mention it, then it probably isn't MIJ.

    Also, 'GAS' = 'Guitar Acquisition Syndrome'.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  13. 2 hours ago, Mr. Dave said:

    On the subject of gear resolutions I'm not usually a fan of Telecasters but these look rather nice, I guess they'll be made in Mexico:


    I like that it uses Indian Laurel as a Indian Rosewood substitute...not only is it nearly as hard (less than 5% difference) as Indian Rosewood, it's related to Limba/Korina:


    If you're looking for a Tele that's a bit different, these have been showing up again online since the Holidays, and they're still Made In Japan:



    • Like 1

  14. Looks to me like the Koala pictured above is getting an Iodine-based soak for it's burned paws before they apply something like Silvadene cream then dressings.  It's probably heavily sedated as well, especially if there's still debriding to be done to those paws, too.

    • Like 1
    • Sad 1
  • Create New...