holLoWskull

I wonder if that T-62 is Austin’s (atquinn) old one? I remember his had a SFG headstock face like this one (instead of the typical black headstock face). I suppose one who’s more motivated than myself could search the old HFC threads to see if the serial # is the same as this guitar that’s listed? T-62’s are great “Strat-ish” guitars, I just wish they had come with chunkier neck profiles.

Congrats on the Duotone! It’s amazing how useful a (plugged in) live acoustic sound you can get with one especially when blending in a good IR and adding some EQ and compression to the signal.

I’ve had mine for a few months and think it’s a pretty cool tool for working on soloing/improv. I’m certainly no expert with it, but I’d say Pros: (1) pretty cool to have a bass player and drummer “in a box” (2) it’s fairly simple to operate (and if you add a 3 button aux footswitch it allows hands free operation of some of the parameters vs having to turn the knobs (3) it has a slot for a SD card so you can theoretically save loops/tracks (I say theoretically since I haven’t gotten that advanced with it…I basically use it at home to work on soloing over different keys and music styles) Cons: (1) requires 800 mA DC if using it on a pedalboard with a power supply (other than the stock adaptor). FYI I have used it with a single Cioks 660 mA/9V tap and it works fine…so far anyways; (2) seems a little too clunky for complicated loop parts in live use…but that could just be me being too lazy to really dig into the thing and use the SD card to save pre-recorded parts? (3) kind of pricey IMO

Easiest route I can think of (if it is a flat top Duotone) is maybe try replacing the stock 500k volume and tone pots with stacked concentric 500k pots (and appropriate stacked metal knobs)? That way you could wire top for volume and bottom for tone for each pickup. If you’ve got a carved top Duotone (Custom) you probably wouldn’t have enough thread on the concentric pot shaft for the metal knobs to attach and might need to remove some wood in the control cavity (not an ideal solution IMO).

All good posts above (even the funny ones 😆)….one added note…pedals without buffers (true bypass) can make an audible “pop” heard in the amplified signal chain when clicked on/off. I think a good buffer can help eliminate that issue (as well as helping with the above mentioned benefits).

If you love Boss effects then sure, why not buy it? For that money though I would check out the Line6 HX One while it’s currently on sale. The company has been great about offering FREE updates to their Helix/HX products over the years, and you get a lot of routing flexibility (plus a good built in tuner/effects/looper). Boss, TC Electronic (Plethora X1), Zoom (new MultiStomp + line), and Line 6 (HX One) are all churning out some feature packed gear in a small pedal footprint.

In “as wired from the factory” stock form position 2 on a Centaura (with passive pickups) was not wired to be hum cancelling (you’re getting both coils of the JB mixed with the SSL-1 middle). If you’re handy with a soldering iron you could easily connect the red and white wires from the humbucker to the position 3 lug on the other side of the 5-way blade switch and run a ground wire from the common lug on that same side of the switch to a volume or tone pot casing and you’ll have hum cancelling in position 2.

It looks like a Seymour Duncan Broadcaster from that era. Based on the pix it certainly seems like the pickups are all “period correct” Duncans and most likely stock. You scored a rare bird (or would it be a “rare rat” ? 😂) for sure. 👍🏻

Wow that looks like someone was trying to maybe put a resistor on the volume pot (preserve treble?) and who knows what the heck was going on with the other pot? I found using a CTS concentric stacked pot (250K/250k or 250k/500k) for a piezo volume/tone works well if you want to follow the wiring diagram on Fishman’s website for a passive Powerbridge circuit. Gives you a tone control for the pickups (plus the volume for the piezo) in one hole. Feel free to PM me if you want any pix of a fairly simple (non-factory) wiring layout (with only one mini toggle though) that I did in my T-51F

The T51F guitars do require a TRS cable (if you want to hear the piezo signal). The “tip” carries the magnetic/pickups and the “ring” carries the piezo signal . Assuming the wiring is stock, if you’re testing it with a normal 1/4” tip/sleeve cable you’re only hearing changes to the mag pickup signal when you change settings on the3-way mini switch. If memory serves correct I believe on a regular T51F the mini 3-way On/On/On toggle would control mag/both/piezo . If you’re using a normal tip/sleeve guitar cable and still hearing guitar signal in all 3 mini switch positions then the wiring may have been altered, or it may have been different from the factory (since it is an unusual pickup config for a T51F)? It’s amazing to think these are now almost 30 year old guitars (where did the time go!?), so who knows what may or may not have been altered by a previous owner(s)?

Cool that you were able to get a sustainiac in the green one. Did you have the control cavity enlarged to fit the “circuit board”, for lack of better term, or did going to the (3-way?) toggle switch over the 5-way blade free up enough room? The location/angle of the stock 5-way switch took up just a whisker too much room when I tried installing a Stealth Plus in my Centaura, so glad to see you got it to work in yours.

Nice grab! If that middle pickup isn’t factory (I think it is?) it looks professionally done regardless. You probably got an alder body one (based on the year and weight) instead of the earlier ash body ones. Still sound awesome IMO. Only downside to that bridge are the piezo saddles…it’s been my experience with those Fishman powerbridges of that era that they like to break the thinner strings (if you leave a set on for a few shows). Really cool spec’d T-51F…enjoy

I think what’s considered light for a T-51 also depends on if it’s an ash body one or a later alder body one? I believe my 96’ T51F is likely alder and is a good 3/4 pound lighter than my ash body 94’ T51 (7.75 lbs vs 8.5 lbs).

I’ll venture a guess it’s a 92’ - 95’ (or I guess it technically could have been made right up until Hamer left Arlington Heights and headed east if custom ordered?) Centaura, original finish, but aftermarket pick guard and pickup. IIRC that was the timeframe when Hamer switched from an alder body to an ash body in the Centaura (and switched from the passive “boost” circuit via mini toggle to a 9V powered active circuit with trimpot accessed via the metal control cavity plate. EDIT: obviously the switch was removed with the pickguard install OR perhaps the pickguard was a custom order and no switch was there to begin with? Unlikely, but Hamer did some cool one off (or rare) specs back in the day.

You will think me daft for suggesting this amp if you're a guy who relies on "internet reviews" when selecting gear, but if you can deal with a 60 lb. combo I highly recommend you check out a used Genz Benz El Diablo 60 combo. Very good clean sounds in the warm channel and you have the hot channel for anything from AC/DC crunch to Metallica grind depending on which gain structure you choose. Also comes with a footswitch and has lots of features that can be controlled via the footswitch. The amp can take either 6L6's or EL34's (bias pot and selector switch on back of amp), has individual channel volume and reverb, it can be switched from 60W down to a more club friendly 30W via a switch on the back, and the best part...since so many self-proclaimed 'tone gurus' slammed the amp they can be found on the used market in the $300 - $500 range all day long. Very versatile and well built gig amp on the cheap (used).