Dry Transfer Source

[velorush]

Thoughts on a reasonably-priced source for a partscaster headstock decal?  I've never messed with them, but for all my reading I am assured I do NOT want to use a waterslide.  The only HFC record I could find is from eight years ago: All-Out Graphics in Vancouver and another to JBennett on the tdpri.  Would prefer Stateside to reduce cost and fuss.

I'll need whomever to create the graphic.  It needs to look like the pre-CBS Fender logo (but it won't say "Fender") since the partscaster has the small headstock.

Everything that I can find on Reverb is waterslide.

 

[chromium]

I've never messed with them, but for all my reading I am assured I do NOT want to use a waterslide. 

Waterslides aren't too bad to work with, for what it's worth. I find that letting them soak in hot water for several minutes combined with applying over a finished surface (as opposed to bare wood) helps. They float right off the paper carrier, and although fragile... while wet they are pretty forgiving as it relates to making adjustments to position.

The T.M. logo on top is a recent one. I applied it over a couple coats of tru-oil, dusted it with a light coat of spray shellac once dry, followed by more coats of tru-oil. I did get a bit too heavy handed wet sanding between coats (visible if you zoom in), but came out good enough for me

 

[cynic]

If you ignore the strong opposition voiced around here re: the horror of using a water slide on a Hamer refin, I think you’ll find people are actually fine with water slides, especially on anything with “caster” in the name. 

 

[Biz Prof]

I've never used one on a Hamer refin/rehab project, but I've had success with waterslides many time in the past. The secret is proper prep and learning how to effectively "bury" the decal in lacquer so that the subsequent blocking/sanding makes it look factory.

 

[velorush]

Thanks, everyone, for the responses.  I now understand the difference between a Hamer headstock decal and a Fender headstock decal and why one might prefer one over the other.

Some things I've learned...

Being generally not very bright, I learn things most days.  In researching for this partscaster I have learned two pertinent things:

1. Fender used waterslide decals.  Of special interest is the "golden era" decals were for a time gelatin-based, meaning, if they weren't sealed properly with a little clear, bugs ate them!  Pretty hysterical and I can see if this information was widely distributed to TGP there would be a whole new trend of insect-based relicing!

2. (an aside to this discussion) all this talk of nitro this, nitro that.  I have never sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer, but used to spray acrylic lacquer quite a bit in my hot-rodding days (now close to forty years ago).  I was all set to pony up for an expensive yet tiny amount of nitro in the (finally) chosen metallic finish.  Come to find out, all of the metallic finishes used by Fender were acrylic lacquer (and you can't imagine how many paragraphs about cut, milled and shaped wood "breathing" I had to suffer to find that information).  An aside to the aside: Fender's Olympic white was also acrylic lacquer, if it matters.  Here is one of several sources if anyone is interested in that sort of thing.

So here's the plan with respect to the above paragraphs: 

1. I have a color laser printer at the house and some pretty good graphics software.  Decal paper is relatively cheap.  I'm going to give it a go myself.  It's a partscaster, after all, and not some museum-quality reproduction of George Fullerton's personal guitar.  I can order an entire box of decal paper for what one custom decal would cost.  

2. Ordered a decent HVLP paint system and dryer / filter.  I'll have the local paint shop make up the paint in acrylic lacquer and shoot it myself.  I haven't shot paint since around 1986 (actually, it was a guitar - a 1965 Fender Musicmaster ("L" series serial number) I shot in what would be called antique white (pale yellow)).  It sold immediately on reassembly, so it must have been at least acceptable.