Jeff R Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Just posted this on Facebook ... now you know how deep a boomer is ... in-progress pics during the re-radius of CajunBoy's '88 Chap to correct a subtle neck twist prior to refret. A typical Hamer overbuild three decades ago paid off today ... the original material thickness preserved the original shape of the inlays despite significant re-shaping in some areas of the fingerboard. The thickness you see is AFTER re-radiusing. ** the fuzz on the fingerboard is off a naphtha-doused cloth. I naphtha'ed the fingerboard to aid in photo contrast. ** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthes Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 This is flippin' cool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottcald Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Man, I love seeing this stuff when you guys post up these things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veatch Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Had no idea their inlays were that thick. Cool pic. That, said, i now have an ear-wig. Thanks, Jeff... :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff_hartwell Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 That is a fine specimen right there! CajunBoy was kind enough to share a table with me at an HFC open house and I’m happy to hear he’s still rattling around! Please keep us updated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff R Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Jescar NS18 57/110s installed, ends clipped and rough beveled. You can still see the stray metal filings from the latter process. I've always said my only dislike on Calis, Chaps, Cents, etc., were frets too small for shredders. I fix that. Look at what appears to be loose seating on the crowns and then look at the fret edges. That's not loose seating ... it's actually shadows being cast by the frets. Here's a share from just before fret installation many bench guys won't show you ... old fingerboards, okay any fingerboard really, can be brittle enough in the slots that you're going to get tiny tear-outs even removing old frets properly and very carefully. It's not a freak out moment. In most cases, tears are tiny enough that they pose no structural issues for the new fretwire, and the new wire will conceal the splintering. Sometimes, however, you'll get a few that will tear a tad beyond the fret crown. Again, no issue, it can just look like sloppy work to a discriminating eye if you just leave them as is. This pic shows a mix of those tiny tears on some slots that were ultimately concealed and were fine as-is ... and a few that I patched using a quick-curing clear epoxy tinted with ebony dust saved during the re-radiusing process. AKA, we insured a perfect color match by patching the fingerboard with itself kinda. Here's that area of the fingerboard after taking down the patches and the refret. I circled two of the patches to make sure they stood out. I didn't circle the boomer at F21 so you could look at before/after without a lime green aid. Keep in mind, this fingerboard and the patches are totally raw at this point, un-dyed, un-oiled, un-nothing. When I hit the fingerboard with lemon oil after the fretwork, the patches will be totally invisible. I don't think you could find them even with the reference photos haha. On that au naturel note, another shout out for the meticulous materials selection at Hamer. Look at this ebony fingerboard, how gorgeous it is. Now consider, what you see is the pure ebony, taken down via abrasives and re-radiusing to its natural form. No dyes, no oil (I can't oil it until I finish my fretwork), no treatment of any sort. Good luck finding this slab of wood today without paying one pretty penny for it. I salivate thinking what this fingerboard is going to look like when I wrap it up. Next, final fret edge beveling and dressing, leveling, re-crowning, 13 stages of abrasive treatment ("polishing" discounts the intrusiveness and elbow grease involved) and finally getting to oil that pretty girl! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottcald Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Love these pull back the curtain posts. You guys have way more patience than I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolfeel Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Those frets look like railroad ties LOVE jumbo frets though. Great post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diablo175 Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 1 hour ago, coolfeel said: Those frets look like railroad ties LOVE jumbo frets though. Great post! Jumbos are indeed awesome!! Jumbo stainless steel are even betterer This is some deep sh*t, man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtone Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 That's some big-ass ole fret wire right there, bayou-style! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
django49 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 How deep is a Boomer? In my case, not (yet) 6 feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottcald Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Thread should be "How deep is a boomer? How high is a fret?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff R Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 D-U-N done! Ebony dust/epoxy patch area detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaVO Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 1 hour ago, Jeff R said: D-U-N done! That there is some sick ass Wizard shit... good work outta ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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