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If not an original Sustain Block bridge, what?


Drew816

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1 hour ago, bubs_42 said:

I've been avoiding this thread so I didn't fall down the rabbit hole again. Congrats to everyone involved, they look great. 

"Hey, i'm only 41. ;) I need you guys to tip me off to the stuff that was good"

Looks like you got the word on this one and chose to opt out. At your young age, I imagine you will get the opportunity to realize where you went wrong.

 

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I've got a Talladega on the way and had a couple questions on the MannMade sustain block as a possible upgrade:

- Is the MannMade bridge better made than the stock Hamer?

- What color hardware was used on the Talladega: Chrome or Nickel?

Mark

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1 hour ago, MarkF786 said:

I've got a Talladega on the way and had a couple questions on the MannMade sustain block as a possible upgrade:

- Is the MannMade bridge better made than the stock Hamer?

Maybe you should play the guitar for a while before thinking about, "upgrading", a guitar you don't have yet? Just sayin'...

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5 hours ago, MarkF786 said:

I've got a Talladega on the way and had a couple questions on the MannMade sustain block as a possible upgrade:

- Is the MannMade bridge better made than the stock Hamer?

- What color hardware was used on the Talladega: Chrome or Nickel?

Mark

I’ve got a Talladega and my Mann bridge is scheduled to be delivered today so I can give you a little more insight on comparing the two. 

That being said, my personal opinion is that the stock bridge does not need to be upgraded. I didn’t purchase the Mann bridge to replace the one in my Talladega. Rather, it’ll be used in a future product. 

Oh yeah, post pics of the Talladega when it arrives. 

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6 hours ago, RobB said:

Maybe you should play the guitar for a while before thinking about, "upgrading", a guitar you don't have yet? Just sayin'...

Uh, with the limited availability now, it seems like now or never is the time to by one.  It can happily sit my parts drawer until I'm ready to make a swap.

 

2 hours ago, Travis said:

I’ve got a Talladega and my Mann bridge is scheduled to be delivered today so I can give you a little more insight on comparing the two. 

That being said, my personal opinion is that the stock bridge does not need to be upgraded. I didn’t purchase the Mann bridge to replace the one in my Talladega. Rather, it’ll be used in a future product. 

Oh yeah, post pics of the Talladega when it arrives. 

Please do let us know how it compares.

I'll post a picture of the new Tally when it arrives, alongside its bit brother, Tally Pro.  I've been wanting a Tally for a while, but they've been becoming harder to find - then recently a mint one showed up on eBay; it looks Brand New in the pictures!  It'll hopefully complete my collection.

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Think about the quality of Hamer USA guitars.  Would there be a slip in quality over a piece of hardware? 

There has been praise on this message board for MannMade products long before this run of bridges. 

The MannMade bridges will be equal in quality.

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22 minutes ago, Steve Haynie said:

Think about the quality of Hamer USA guitars.  Would there be a slip in quality over a piece of hardware? 

There has been praise on this message board for MannMade products long before this run of bridges. 

The MannMade bridges will be equal in quality.

There are better options that the stock hardware Hamer used, for example the TonePros stuff.  On my Tally Pro, I tried a lot of options, though found the Pigtail adjustable wraparound the best for me.

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The Mann bridge was made to Hamer spec.  I can't imagine much difference at all in the quality of materials used as neither company was/is known to skimp in that area.  The one (only?) difference is the original Tally bridge will have the grooves for the saddle adjustment screws to travel in while the Mann, being modeled after an earlier version of the Sustain Block, will not.  As the Mann was built to spec and not as an alternative option (such as your Pigtail adjustable), in terms of overall appearance, performance, adjustability, string spacing, materials, and reliability (based on Mann's stellar hardware reputation) you should expect zero difference between the two.

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36 minutes ago, MarkF786 said:

There are better options that the stock hardware Hamer used, for example the TonePros stuff.  On my Tally Pro, I tried a lot of options, though found the Pigtail adjustable wraparound the best for me.

For the most part, I would say that Hamer has done really well with selecting quality hardware on their guitars over the years. Maybe a player prefers a different product of equal quality but to find one “better” than what was used stock... eh...

the one exception I’ll absolutely agree with you on is the Wilkinson trem on the Mirage line. I will be replacing those on my 1 and 2 with Mann trems in the near future. 

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28 minutes ago, cynic said:

FYI, 10% off MANNMADE for March Madness.  My second order has been placed.

I was just looking at that an hour ago. Got a trem in my shopping cart right now. 

What did you end up getting, another sustain block?

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2 hours ago, MarkF786 said:

There are better options that the stock hardware Hamer used, for example the TonePros stuff.  On my Tally Pro, I tried a lot of options, though found the Pigtail adjustable wraparound the best for me.

If you are using a stoptail bridge... check out mine - MannMade #2310 - https://guitarvaultusa.rainadmin.com/shop/c/p/MannMade-USA-Intonatable-Stoptail-Bridge---Gibson-x42807340.htm

2310-P MannMade USA Intonatable Stoptail Bridge - Gibson, Polished.jpg

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32 minutes ago, cynic said:

FYI, 10% off MANNMADE for March Madness.  My second order has been placed.

You got lucky... those were NOT supposed to be on sale! 
Since these are a limited run, the sale price should not have applied. 

Since it went thru, I will honor it.

The sale ends Sunday at midnight, and is valid for any in stock item  (guitars, amps, parts & accessories)

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1 hour ago, MannMade USA said:

If you are using a stoptail bridge... check out mine - MannMade #2310 - https://guitarvaultusa.rainadmin.com/shop/c/p/MannMade-USA-Intonatable-Stoptail-Bridge---Gibson-x42807340.htm

 

Nice looking wraparound!  The only caveat in my Tally Pro (with "PROTOTYPE" as the serial number) has the stud placement a little off, rendering many adjustable wraparounds unusable because there isn't enough saddle travel.  The Pigtail worked the best, though I did have to reverse all the saddles so they weren't push all the way back.  Note on the Pigtail how the saddle slots go behind where the studs meet the bridge.

IMG_0164.jpeg.a3b77280601573dbffe7c03e0b5a0985.jpeg

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3 hours ago, cynic said:

The Mann bridge was made to Hamer spec.  I can't imagine much difference at all in the quality of materials used as neither company was/is known to skimp in that area.  The one (only?) difference is the original Tally bridge will have the grooves for the saddle adjustment screws to travel in while the Mann, being modeled after an earlier version of the Sustain Block, will not.  As the Mann was built to spec and not as an alternative option (such as your Pigtail adjustable), in terms of overall appearance, performance, adjustability, string spacing, materials, and reliability (based on Mann's stellar hardware reputation) you should expect zero difference between the two.

Is the Hamer Sustain Block also made from brass?

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4 hours ago, MannMade USA said:

You got lucky... those were NOT supposed to be on sale! 

Oopsie.....sorry about that Mann.  I wasn't trying to get over on ya.  I just saw the email, got excited, and hit the button.

I'll just keep my mouth shut and appreciate the discount.  First round is on me.

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3 hours ago, MarkF786 said:

though I did have to reverse all the saddles so they weren't push all the way back.

You do realize there are Allen screws on both sides of the bridge so you can move the entire bridge, either side independently, forwards and backwards so that you can avoid reversing the saddles?

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18 minutes ago, gtrdaddy said:

You do realize there are Allen screws on both sides of the bridge so you can move the entire bridge, either side independently, forwards and backwards so that you can avoid reversing the saddles?

I knew there'd be someone questioning what I'm saying.

I've been working on guitars for 25 years and can setup a guitar better than most boutique builders.  I'm obsessive about it actually, have many books on the topic, have every imaginable tool Stew Mac makes, and know how to use them.  And I'm an engineer by trade, meticulous in detail.

The f'ing Allen screws are adjusted - look at the picture.  I've worked at this endless ways over two years, even precisely measuring the stud placement and comparing it to boatloads of guides on building guitars, and getting second opinions from builders - and the stud placement is wrong.  I've tried nearly 10 bridges that either wouldn't work, or required extreme adjustments. I'll see if I can find a picture with the factory bridge to show how "off" it was; it was pushed back so far with the Allen screws, it looked ready to fall off.  Maybe this is why it's a "PROTOTYPE".  With all that tried, the current state is the best I could come up with.

If you truly understand guitar setup and want to know more, PMing me and I'll share all the details.

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