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Les Paul Action ...

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So I have question about the action in my 2006 R0. With NYXL 10/46 the action is on the loose side. With NYXL 11/49 the action is perfect but it's harder for me to play with 11's. How can I tighten up the action without going to thicker strings?  Is there a brand of tens that has more tension ? My SG and my FM both have perfect tension with a similar bridge configuration, are LP's known for being sloppy like this? Is it the headstock angle?  Anyway ... help!  Thanks  :)

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Try lowering the tailpiece so that the strings *just* clear the back of the bridge housing. Adjust your truss rod accordingly.

And, don't expect your LP to have the same feel as similar instruments. Different feel is GOOD. It's why we have multiple guitars, right?

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I find the NYXL 10s to have quite a bit of tension compared to other brands. I love them anyway.

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How high do you have the strings off the fretboard? There's a lot that goes into the "feel" of a guitars setup, besides just string gauge.

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4 hours ago, Armitage said:

Lower the tailpiece... that's why it's adjustable 

I'm pretty sure its adjusted all the way down but I'll check. I understand the longer the string the greater the tension. 

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2 hours ago, tbonesullivan said:

How high do you have the strings off the fretboard? There's a lot that goes into the "feel" of a guitars setup, besides just string gauge.

I'll post some pics 

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f you are using the same strings (gauge and alloy), same tailpiece height, same string height in relation to the fingerboard ... sounds like the LP may have a touch more relief in the neck than the SG or the FM, which can affect overall sponginess under the left hand fingers. Tighten the truss rod (clockwise) just a touch (i'd try 1/12th to 1/6th of a rotation) to slightly reduce the relief (flatten the board) and see if that tightens the feel of the 10s under your left hand fingers. If it doesn't work or you deem it counterproductive, it's easily reversible ... just keep track of how far you move the rod and put it back where you had it.

Edited by Jeff R
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But don't lower the tailpiece down too far as you might have a problem with the bridge "break angle" killing your tone...

https://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_Bridge_and_Tailpiece_Installati/Tune-O-Matic_setup_is_the_trouble_with_the_bridge_or_the_neck_angle.html

Edited by Dave Scepter

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Top-wrapping is the usual method for minimizing bridge break angle. I like the "Jam Nuts" described in the article though. Never seen those before.

I have however run into this "stiff" feeling before, and I honestly never really figured it out. You have two guitars that are almost identical (two SGs), and one feels much "looser" than the other, even with identical setup specifications.

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DSCN5759_zpsshreyw2z.jpg

I used a pair of 1/16 thick washers underneath (the same diameter as the top of the anchors) with socket head cap screws to bolt the tailpiece tight to the top of the guitar. It's sort of the same school of thought as the Jam Nuts, but eliminates the play/wobble inherent in the original post design.

Top-wrapping made it feel looser/slinkier with .010s, almost too much so with a hybrid set. Top-wrapping also raised the strings/lessened the break-over angle more than I'd like but being tone deaf I hear no difference. Someday I'll address that.

Edited by hamerhead

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Well, when the break angle is too shallow, the strings actually start sliding back and forth across the bridge, so you end up with more string available when you bend a string. So, you get a looser feel, but at the same time, your bends are less productive.

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I use D`Addario NYXL strings and love them. On 24.75 scale guitars I use the 9.5-44 strings and on 25 and 25.5 scale guitars I use 9-42 strings. Basically, they make in between sets with odd sizes.

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