Menehune Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 My new-to-me Hamer came with a Callaham ABR-1 bridge and one-piece Nashville conversion studs. The insert body and stud post is "one piece" (I don't know if that means it's machined as one piece, or the stud is pressed into the insert) instead of being a separate threaded post that threads into the insert bushing. Each stud post is threaded to within about 2mm of its insert face, but I need that treble-side adjustment wheel to go down a little over 1mm more. I thought "simple, I'll run a 6-32 die down the stud post *carefully* to the insert face to cut the extra thread," but then recalled that a die's cutting faces are radiused, so I'll never be able to run a true 6-32 thread down to the insert face, or even to within 1mm of it. So, any suggestions short of "replace the studs", or "put in shorty saddles", or "grind down the bridge on that side", or "sell me that guitar for treefiddy"? Time to find a machine shop? As for "replace the studs", the barrel of a Callaham insert is smooth-faced, and not grooved like a standard bushing. From what I've read it holds by being a bit oversized, ruining that hole for replacement with grooved bushings - though I suppose any looseness could be fixed with a wipe of hide glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobB Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 Send an email to Callahan before you try to to alter the hardware. He may have a solution, or maybe he can fabricate a new piece for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyboy-UK Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 ... and I thought you were going to be posting a picture of me on this thread. Sooo disappointed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menehune Posted October 6, 2020 Author Share Posted October 6, 2020 6 hours ago, RobB said: Send an email to Callahan before you try to to alter the hardware. He may have a solution, or maybe he can fabricate a new piece for you. Did that, explaining the situation and asking "Do you have studs cut to allow the adjustment wheel to screw down to the top of the stud face?" The reply was a straightforward "sorry we do not." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menehune Posted October 6, 2020 Author Share Posted October 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Bennyboy-UK said: ... and I thought you were going to be posting a picture of me on this thread. Sooo disappointed My stud's thread is jacked, and now this stud thread is gonna get 'jacked? Wunnerful. Just wunnerful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeboy Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 6 hours ago, RobB said: Send an email to Callahan before you try to to alter the hardware. He may have a solution, or maybe he can fabricate a new piece for you. This. My record8ng buddy AC used to work at Callaham’s shop. I bet Bill will make you what you need. Oh, and damnit, @Bennyboy-UKyou beat me to it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menehune Posted October 8, 2020 Author Share Posted October 8, 2020 The solution is to replace the bridge studs. What bridge and studs were originally installed in a circa 1993 Artist? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobB Posted October 8, 2020 Share Posted October 8, 2020 26 minutes ago, Menehune said: What bridge and studs were originally installed in a circa 1993 Artist? I'm assuming the stock Schaller Nashville tuneomatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menehune Posted October 8, 2020 Author Share Posted October 8, 2020 Looks like the Faber's #3216 "PLUS" USA/ABR-1 conversion posts will be the replacements. The photo shows post threading goes down to, or sufficiently near, to the bushing top. I'll ask Faber to confirm the minimum adjustment height before ordering. Thanks, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menehune Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 Larry @ Faber USA affirmed the that adjustment wheel of Faber conversion posts runs down to the top of the flange, and that the flange is about 1.5mm thick. Works out just fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerDave Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 If you have some $ to spend, you might consider buying the full Faber Master Kit. The locking bridge and tailpiece design is brilliant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menehune Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Faber posts arrived. The old Callaham posts pulled out easily, the Faber posts went in, and the bridge can now be adjusted just right. The Faber thumbwheel doesn't run down all the way to the flange top, but goes down more than far enough. So I have a pair of Callaham Nashville/ABR-1 adapter bridge posts for whomever wants them. The bridge post threads are slightly chewed thanks to the aluminum tailpiece having set screws that someone cranked down with great enthusiasm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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