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Proper soldering iron.


pirateflynn

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I used a lower-end 40w Weller with a small chisel tip for years and it worked fine. I think I paid $45 for it - something like that. But then, about 8 years ago I purchased one of these https://hakkousa.com/fx-888d-digital-soldering-station.html and it's been a total dream. Zero complaints. Would buy again without hesitation.

 

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Hakko FX888-D without question: it's my only solder station in my guitar workshop. Took 4 years of dithering before I bought one and I'm so glad I did...

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Solder: my favorite is the Kester 44 .031 , a 63/37, which is what's called an eutectic solder. If you're not familiar, what makes it so great for guitar electronics is that it melts/freezes at a specific temp right at about 183C: fast clean soldering and shiny joints. As opposed to 60/40 which melts at a higher temp and will sit as a molten material for longer which increases the chances of cold solder connections. It's what NASA uses and is excellent for guitar electronics too. I prefer it above all others.

Here ya go: https://www.jameco.com/z/24-6337-0027-Kester-Solder-Roll-63-Sn-37-Pb-0-031-Inch-Diameter-1-Pound_2188246.html

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I think I definitely need to do some shopping. Using the old 60/40 when hooking up some speakers was a pain.

I also need to learn more about different tips. I usually just use the standard tip, but I would guess that a chisel tip can get a lot more surface area contact for quicker heating of the things you are joining.

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Another Hakko user here (936ESD).  Heats up so fast I turn it off after each "weld" if I'm going slow and keeping things tidy.  For solder, definitely something bigger than .025".  I've got a pound of the same Kester recommended above but at only .025" I typically run out a couple feet then double it up and twist it so I end up with a .050"ish.  Sadly that amount is a lifetime supply for my needs.

936-12.jpg

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1 minute ago, murkat said:

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/bk2000-soldering-station.html

They've gone in price since I have recommended, but they work very well.

I bought my CSI Premium 75 on recommendation here 7/8 years ago and it died after 2 years. Circuit Specialists were not good when I spoke to them so I do not recommend Circuit Specialists myself. Their irons are China-made generic and they put their branding on them. I'm not stating thet they don't have them made to their own standards: just that my one didn't last 2 years and their aftersales were not helpful. Hakko all-the-way for me...

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just like anything else in our world, sometimes you win some, sometimes you loose some.

I've replaced my CSI unit once, maybe twice. At the daily amount that I use them, good for me.

I'm sure the Hakko's are the cats meow thou.

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I have 2 Hakko's, an older unit with guess what heat it's running and a newer blue digital one. I went to the digital to be able to work on the new shit with surface mount diodes the size of pencil lead chip. And 20X glasses!! Micro surgery! I'm trying to stay away from that stuff now tho! Hands are getting twitchy....

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On 5/13/2021 at 1:55 AM, scottcald said:

What temp are you running at for soldering guitar stuff?

I have my iron set to blazing hot (825F) when I work so that I can hit it and quit it fast. Clean the tip, a touch of solder to wet it, heat the part(s) for a moment and flow the solder in. On and off, fast and efficient. Using the eutectic solder with my iron at a good temp, I create perfect shiny connections in 10 seconds or less which is exactly how it should be done. For soldering to the back of pots this is especially important: if your iron temp is too low or if your tip is too small, it can take forever to heat the area and the pot can get "cooked" and not work correctly.

A 40w iron will do the trick as long as you're using the right tip: a small chisel for pickup work and pot connection-point lugs - a med chisel for back of pots - and then that good solder I linked to above. Once you've got your rig dialed in and are using the right stuff, you'll be amazed at how quick, easy, and fun soldering can be. Shiny and perfect, no cold joints, and no failures.

 

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9 hours ago, JGravelin said:

I have my iron set to blazing hot (825F) when I work so that I can hit it and quit it fast. Clean the tip, a touch of solder to wet it, heat the part(s) for a moment and flow the solder in. On and off, fast and efficient. Using the eutectic solder with my iron at a good temp, I create perfect shiny connections in 10 seconds or less which is exactly how it should be done. For soldering to the back of pots this is especially important: if your iron temp is too low or if your tip is too small, it can take forever to heat the area and the pot can get "cooked" and not work correctly.

A 40w iron will do the trick as long as you're using the right tip: a small chisel for pickup work and pot connection-point lugs - a med chisel for back of pots - and then that good solder I linked to above. Once you've got your rig dialed in and are using the right stuff, you'll be amazed at how quick, easy, and fun soldering can be. Shiny and perfect, no cold joints, and no failures.

 

Thanks, Josh!  I've done plenty of soldering, but never had a temperature adjust, so really had no idea what temp I had been soldering.

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9 hours ago, JGravelin said:

I have my iron set to blazing hot (825F)

I'm happy to hear you say that.  I initially tried setting mine lower based on recommendations I read elsewhere but eventually found that 750º works well for me.

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Good discussion.  I'm glad this came up.  I've been putting off getting a good soldering iron/station and improving my skills (which need much improvement).  Snagged a Hakko FX-888D on Amazon.  Amazon also has the exact Kester 24-6337-0027 solder Josh mentioned so some of that is on the way as well.  

 

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Regarding the Hakko FX-888D: make sure you buy legitimate Hakko tips as tyhey fitt better and give better heat transference than 3rd party tips. My Hakko came into it's own only after I started using official Hakko tips...

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5 hours ago, Victor (Fret Friend) said:

Regarding the Hakko FX-888D: make sure you buy legitimate Hakko tips as tyhey fitt better and give better heat transference than 3rd party tips. My Hakko came into it's own only after I started using official Hakko tips...

Definitely true, with so much else. Of course this means you have to be careful ordering on many large websites, as while they may say they are "real Hakko tips" they may not be. Amazon doesn't give a crap about policing the authenticity of the products third party sellers through up there. And sometimes Amazon itself sells fakes.

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On 5/13/2021 at 7:41 AM, hamerhead said:

I have a Weller WTCPS that works fine. The variable output of the Hakko would be better, though.

I have the exact same thing and was fortunate enough to find it a yard sale of a ham operator for cheap. I think it's running 750 degrees, depending on the tip.

Hakko is the G-Wagon. Weller is the 4Runner.

Hope that helps.

 

Steve

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