Jump to content
Hamer Fan Club Message Center
  • 0

Help!? Steel, Aluminium, Brass or OEM Zinc Alloy? Tunamatic Replacement


JGale
 Share

Question

First off which type bridge is my Hamer 25th Anniversary? ABR or Nashville?

Callaham - Steel

ABM - Brass, Aluminum, Stainless Steel

Tone Pros - Zinc

Gotoh - Aluminum or Zinc

Got a preference?

TIA,

Jim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by JGale
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
2 hours ago, murkat said:

TOM (nashville)

depends on what you want out of it tone wise.

Schaller TOMS are benchmark, tight tolerances.

Gotoh's are japan's answer to Schaller. Good stuff. Solid machining.

Fancy? Faber.

My Fabers have all been purchased new for less than the Schaller equivalent and/or some Gotoh stuff!

They don't mess around when they have sales...

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Brass & zinc will give you a bigger bottom end and very balanced mids and highs. Steel will produce slightly less bass, sharper high frequency response and a somewhat stiffer feel through the amp. Aluminum provides a slight bump in midrange and high frequencies and a slightly more open sound over other options. 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thank you all for your response. 

A semi hollow all mahogany guitar already has a "throaty"  response. More bass is not welcome, nor is any more high end emphasis.

That leaves Aluminium or Zinc, no?

What about an aluminum bridge with a steel stoptail?

Thanks again🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
57 minutes ago, JGale said:

What about an aluminum bridge with a steel stoptail?

Not having played the guitar I would recommend aluminum bridge with a zinc stoptail to avoid too much brightness. 

Edited by gtrdaddy
ETA: have done a lot of guitars that had a ton of bottom end already with a zinc stoptail, added the aluminum bridge leaving the stop tail and it was a perfect balance, nice mid bump and opened up the sound nicely.
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
1 hour ago, JGale said:

Thank you all for your response. 

A semi hollow all mahogany guitar already has a "throaty"  response. More bass is not welcome, nor is any more high end emphasis.

That leaves Aluminium or Zinc, no?

What about an aluminum bridge with a steel stoptail?

Thanks again🙂

 

34 minutes ago, gtrdaddy said:

Not having played the guitar I would recommend aluminum bridge with a zinc stoptail to avoid too much brightness. 

Listen to this man. He knows of which he speaks…

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Okayly Dokaly 

Going with Faber. Has anyone done the "pop out the posts in the body and softly pound in the replacements" route or just the replace the parts not embedded in the guitar?

Video says itseasyanyonecandoit. 

EZ kit:

https://faberusa.com/product/5004-master-kit-ez-gloss-nickel/

Do it herself Luthier kit:

https://faberusa.com/product/5008-master-kit-plus-gloss-nickel/

Video: skip to 1:25m

https://youtu.be/pZb91F2Je5E

 

 

 

 

Edited by JGale
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I'm late to the party on this, but for the benefit of others who may have the same question:

The Master kit Plus version, which requires extracting the bridge post inserts and replacing with hammer-in posts is very easy to install.  Faber provides everything you need, and the process takes minutes to accomplish.  The result is superior to the EZ version, IMO, as it eliminates the bridge post "wobble" inherent in the OEM and Faber EZ screw-in post assemblies.  The Faber EZ version is tighter than the OEM, but there is still movement.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I know the difference on my Special Korina Jr was HUGE when I replaced the Wilky wrap with a Faber. More present and zingy, in a good way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Curious how it turned out, and what to specify re: Inch v. Metric, if I order a Faber kit for my Super Pro... I'm definitely interested in the ToneLock design more than the set screw "locking" bridges, just not sure what a Hamer USA needs. I'm also thinking "Plus" rather than "EZ" if I buy Faber. Who can guide me so I select the right posts for my Nashville/Schaller replacement and for the new (aluminum) stop tail?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
On 4/22/2022 at 3:19 PM, joshoowah said:

Curious how it turned out, and what to specify re: Inch v. Metric, if I order a Faber kit for my Super Pro... I'm definitely interested in the ToneLock design more than the set screw "locking" bridges, just not sure what a Hamer USA needs. I'm also thinking "Plus" rather than "EZ" if I buy Faber. Who can guide me so I select the right posts for my Nashville/Schaller replacement and for the new (aluminum) stop tail?

It's really easy to get to Larry Corsa via email. Rather than rely on our misreading your situation, seek the horses mouth.

In my case, a hog25th, I was looking to "tighten up" the response. I find 25ths (this is my second) to be a tad "loose" when you play them. Some like it, I wanted solid body snap with my moaning midrangery stuff. I got it with the Faber. I have a set of Carondelet Classic A2 PAFs in there. I get woody and articulate at the same time. How do it know?

The installation is a trip, from winding a tap screw into the wood to eject the insert, to pounding your baby with a hammer, repeatedly. There's video of these things.

The bridge on mine was US threaded. The stop tail was metric. WTF,H?

Pull the parts and check which is which thread before you go any further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...