AdmiralB Posted October 17, 2008 Posted October 17, 2008 Dunno how much interest lies in these parts, but it can't hurt to mention!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=320311258733
AdmiralB Posted October 17, 2008 Author Posted October 17, 2008 No, I literally just got this one Wednesday. It was on eBay, from "Clyde's Pawn Shop" in northern Georgia. Opening bid of $699, BIN of $1299. He had no idea what it was.It had tape stuck all over it with settings written on it, but it cleaned up really nice. And it worked - it's the first old Rectifier I've had that wasn't broken. It's immaculate internally, no repairs or any evidence that it was even ever out of the cabinet.Before the economy disappeared up its own ass, this would have been a $2500 amp - the chrome/black was worth another $500. Today, I dunno what I'll get, but I've already made $400 if I don't get another bid.What's funny is that when I saw the auction, there had already been three or four questions about it asked and answered - he posted the serial number in the ad but didn't have a picture of it specifically. I figured it was worth rolling the dice; even if it wasn't a pre-500, just about any old DR with the chrome chassis is worth $1300.
DavidE Posted October 17, 2008 Posted October 17, 2008 You scored twice then! :-)Here's hoping you get the top end!
AdmiralB Posted October 17, 2008 Author Posted October 17, 2008 You scored twice then! :-)LOL..actually this is the third time!The first was at the Indy Sam Ash - I was browsing the used stuff last summer, and noticed it (around 450 serial, IIRC). I went to play it and it didn't work, kept blowing fuses. They swore it worked when they took it in. I had just read about the whole pre-500 thing and knew it was worth something but not what, exactly. So I gave the guy half a twenty (actually, half a $200, IIRC) and went home and researched it. Came back and bought it, figured I could fix it and if I couldn't I could just return it.All it needed was a couple resistors - these amps use old Mark III 100W (non-Simulclass) OTs, and they have no 16-ohm tap. Mesa labelled the jacks 8/16 ohm, and if you plug a 16-ohm cab in and crank it, you WILL cause the amp to catch fire. This one was pretty easy to fix, I sold it to a guy on the Boogie board and made about $900 profit.Two weeks later, GC got one (serial around 220), I saw it on the used website. Called and had them hold it, when I got there they told me that it 'smoked' when they powered it on earlier that day. I bought it anyway, at a reduced price, figuring a similar issue.Well, it WAS a similar issue, except that instead of just a couple resistors burning, the main PCB had charred. I had to drill out about a half-inch square of PCB and rewire part of it. That one went to Australia via eBay...I made more money on it since I bought it cheaper, but I probably had 40 hours in repairing it.
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