I own a 04 Studio Goldtop, that came stock with some very hot Seymour Duncan P90's (SP2 in the neck; SP3 in the bridge, 12K and 14K respectively).
I'm trying very hard not to "tinker" with this guitar. But, I like to know at what value the two volume and one tone pots are speced at? The solder might be covering the info.
Are "Hamer" pots a propietary design?
Also, the value of the tone cap? The cap has a code of 103...so, is this .01uF?
I know that P90'a are inherently noisy, but I was wondering if anything can be improved on, on this matter. I was under the assumption that the expensive shielding paint that Hamer uses, funtions the same as if using copper shielding, and that continuity, thru all of the shielding and the aluminum control cover, has to be established. If you look at this picture, when I tested with my DVM, the yellow square area that comes in contact with the cover plate, has no continuity with area A. Area A has no continuity with B. B no bueno with C. But area C is shorted with all the pots, switch, and jack.
Is this normal? Or, is the shielding paint scheme not working the way it should?
BTW, this pic is not of my Goldtop, but it is a very close representation of it.
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syscokid
I own a 04 Studio Goldtop, that came stock with some very hot Seymour Duncan P90's (SP2 in the neck; SP3 in the bridge, 12K and 14K respectively).
I'm trying very hard not to "tinker" with this guitar. But, I like to know at what value the two volume and one tone pots are speced at? The solder might be covering the info.
Are "Hamer" pots a propietary design?
Also, the value of the tone cap? The cap has a code of 103...so, is this .01uF?
I know that P90'a are inherently noisy, but I was wondering if anything can be improved on, on this matter. I was under the assumption that the expensive shielding paint that Hamer uses, funtions the same as if using copper shielding, and that continuity, thru all of the shielding and the aluminum control cover, has to be established. If you look at this picture, when I tested with my DVM, the yellow square area that comes in contact with the cover plate, has no continuity with area A. Area A has no continuity with B. B no bueno with C. But area C is shorted with all the pots, switch, and jack.
Is this normal? Or, is the shielding paint scheme not working the way it should?
BTW, this pic is not of my Goldtop, but it is a very close representation of it.
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