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Direct mount humbucker screws?


morningstar

Question

Posted

What type of screws thread into the inserts to direct mount pickups on an 80's shredder body?

The screws I have for my ESP buckers (not Ltd) don;t thread into the inserts, and appear way too long.

Thanks

\morningstar

9 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

Posted

#4-40 - easy over there, a pain in the arse to get over here !

Posted

Screwed again haha...

4-40 thread perfectly into the lugs. So do the full length HB screws that came with the Pups.

The 3/8" screws are too short. They won't reach over the cable from the upstream pickup(s) and I like to put a piece of foam under direct mounted pickups. Screws are cheap, I will get more lengths.

The other problem is the 4-40 screws DO NOT thread into the Seymour Duncan factory threads. I have read at the SD forum that people just ream out the factory tapped holes then tap em for the 4-40's. I will if I must, but I'd rather have the correct screws.

Does anybody know what screws (size and thread) that SD actually uses?

Thanks

morningstar

Posted

Oh yes, you do have to ream out the holes on SD pickups, not sure how you can get round that.

Posted

Yeah, for direct mounting, you have to drill out the tabs; just the way it is IME. I think some people on the SD forum have gotten around it by keeping a set of direct mount baseplates and transferring the pickup guts to that, but that seems like more trouble than it's worth to me.

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Austin

Posted

Just to say i don't re-thread the mounting lugs, i just make them bigger than the screws as the springs will maintain the height. Oh, and foam's good - lots of small time bass builders use high desity stuff lots to direct mount pickups.

Posted

Just to say i don't re-thread the mounting lugs, i just make them bigger than the screws as the springs will maintain the height. Oh, and foam's good - lots of small time bass builders use high desity stuff lots to direct mount pickups.

As far as I know, that's what everyone does? Doesn't really make sense to have threaded tabs if you're direct mounting. BTW, I've had to drill out all sorts of pickups, so it's not a Duncan-specific thing. Once I started doing it, it made me see the importance of asking if a used pickup I was looking to buy had been direct-mounted or not. Some people don't know the difference, so it's always good to ask.

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Austin

Posted

Okay so I will ream them.

I will also solder nuts on the plates that fit the 4-40's and make sure I keep four screws of proper length in the case for future swaps. Should be easy, just thread 4-40's onto nuts, pass through the plate, cinch another nut below the plate, solder on the top nut, take the bottom nut off, back out the screw. Ta-da.

I am sure I will find a way to foul it up.

morningstar

Posted

Okay so I will ream them.

I will also solder nuts on the plates that fit the 4-40's and make sure I keep four screws of proper length in the case for future swaps. Should be easy, just thread 4-40's onto nuts, pass through the plate, cinch another nut below the plate, solder on the top nut, take the bottom nut off, back out the screw. Ta-da.

I am sure I will find a way to foul it up.

morningstar

I've used JB Weld for this in the past. Easier for me to manage than soldering, though you do have to wait a day or so for everything to firm up.

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Austin

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