HELP! Re-wiring my Centaura from scratch...

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

So, this came to me in a bit of a mess (no blame here) & I wanna put it right.

Here's what was in there: 1 x Dimarzio 250k pot & 1 x 500k pot (these are both going in the bin). Gonna replace 'em with 2 x 500k ALPHA's I got from Stewmac. I only got 0.047 caps (Stewmac). Should I do the wiring from the Hamer diag (naff quality but I may be able to work with it) or copy what I had (I don't wanna do that tbh).

I can't really make the Hamer diag out but hope to use it. Prob is, I only have 0.047 caps.

Should I just use the .047s & 500k pots & copy the official diagram?

Fk knows what else is wired there - I got 2 x caps & 1 x old transistor from the old wiring I could use:

And... which pickup? (Gotta be the PATB right)?

So, I'm gonna extend the S/C pickup wires cos they're short & will drop in the PATB once I got this wiring sussed out (I really aint no expert).

HELP needed guys

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I can suss the kill-switch, selector & the pickups out. I'm having probs following the vol/tone/caps/lugs wiring as the pic is not clear enough. Are these all caps or caps/resistor? What are the values? Where the fk are they soldered (exactly)?

[Andrew]

Main tone pot is 0.01uF (MFD)

THICK SWITCH:

The tiny cap on the switch says 'W100 Made in Mexico' and '223K' on the flipside.

The cap from switch to pot earth says '.001K 80/100'.

All I can offer.

[Andrew]

.001K isn't a valid cap code. So this doesn't help much - sorry.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I'm going with a .047 regardless. My main problem is what the fk is going on with the center lug on the tone pot? The diagram is too fkd up to follow. I can see it is connected to the center lug on the VOL pot but cannot make-out where else the center lug on the tone goes! Is it soldered to a wire from the input socket or to the back of the pot???

If anyone could do me a diagram of some sorts, that would be killa...

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

You'd have thought that, over the years, someone would have redone these diagrams cos, tbh, they're pretty fkn useless at best <insert whistle smiley here>

[Andrew]

Normally the centre lug on the tone is live from the vol and connected to the output jack. The cap is soldered to one lug, and one is left unconnected. You can just make this out on the diagram. I would send you a pic of my cavity (Oh er, Missus) but the wires are all coiled up and so busy you can't make out the connections. On the diagram,the upper pair of switch lugs are bridged and the lower pair have the 223K soldered across.

I would say that the thick switch doesn't do a lot. What about using it for a bridge coil-tap?

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

See! I don't mind leaving the kill switch out & if I knew how to wire the switch to split the HB, I would!!!

I don't get what you mean re: the the switch lugs (I need diagrams or photo's I think).

Wanna get cracking with this but i don't wanna fk it up :angry:

[Andrew]

Lugs = the connections, usually the little metal loops.

Coil tapping is easy is you have four connectors - just use the mini-switch to connect one coil to ground, done by connecting the two wires that are currently connected together (and covered in shrink wrap, usually red/green) to the switch centre connection and either of the other end connections to the back of a pot.

Edited to add that I have used Dimarzio colours above by mistake, SD might be different.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

LOL = I know what lugs are haha

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

BUMP

Anyone? Else, I'm just gonna wire it as it was (but tidier)...

[Andrew]

BUMP

Anyone? Else, I'm just gonna wire it as it was (but tidier)...

I don't want to sound patronising but the diagram you have is readable.

What can't you follow? Let us know and we can advise.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Normally the centre lug on the tone is live from the vol and connected to the output jack. The cap is soldered to one lug, and one is left unconnected. You can just make this out on the diagram. I would send you a pic of my cavity (Oh er, Missus) but the wires are all coiled up and so busy you can't make out the connections. On the diagram,the upper pair of switch lugs are bridged and the lower pair have the 223K soldered across.

I would say that the thick switch doesn't do a lot. What about using it for a bridge coil-tap?

OK. I think I got it. I dunno if I have all the 'bits' I need but I'll have a go at soldering it all up tomorrow & see what happens. I just kinda wa\nnit right yer know (I aint no electrical expert)..

[veatch]

This might help, though it is missing the thick switch.

http://www.seymourdu...ic=HSS_1v_1t_5w

Edit to add - Note these are SD docs, so the color codes are specific to SD - you might have to vary what color the correct lead is off of the pup if you are not using SD pups.

Also, there are always several ways to wire guitars that make little or no difference tone wise. Up to you if you want to follow the Hamer doc and keep it "to spec" or simply wire it a way you know will work.

Hopefully between what you have above and this, you should be able to get things cookin'.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

This might help, though it is missing the thick switch.

http://www.seymourdu...ic=HSS_1v_1t_5w

Yeah, I got this .pdf cheers Jef!

I got a few lol = I could try this (there's also a .pdf on the SD site showing how to add the thick-switch afterwards)

Think I'll go with the SD diag as I got a PATB off eBay to put in so I got the right wire colors etc

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I've done it! I went with veatch's SD diagram in the end & totally disabled the thick-switch option. Been playing it tonight & it's plays killa! I'm really happy with it.

I ordered a new Schaller trem arm (with fitting) & need to strip/clean the trem then the guitar is set. Loving the sound of the PATB p-up I just put in...

Just bought a used PATB on ebay for $90 (they're fkn expensive over here)...)

I always make a jig for positioning (saw this trick on youtube)...

Not brilliant soldering but done & much better than what it had...

Trem needs stripping/cleaning (new arm on the way) but looking good...

Had a good hour on her tonight. Looks ace & plays fant... c'mon = it's a Hamer = it plays...

I love this guitar <3

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Setup with D'Addario 10-46s tuned to D at 432hz

Using EH Metal Muff + EH Neo-Clone thru Marshall JCM 900 half stack

This is (now) my stage setup (all the processors/pedalboards have gone)

Fab fab fab

[veatch]

Great to hear! Another guitar having something proper dun to it (as in - being played!)