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Victor (Fret Friend)

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Everything posted by Victor (Fret Friend)

  1. That Goldtop one in the video retails at £499 GBP: For my American friends, that's around $630 US. It's my experience, most new budget guitars need some fret work out of the box (unfortunately) but for me, that's not a problem. Maybe factor the price of a fret level in if you do buy one! No brainer if you get a good one though...
  2. All of the Sire LC models are highly rated here in the UK. Only ever heard good things about them. I am yet to have one in the workshop but I am tempted to buy one...
  3. I always follow the raidius to start then I lower each string from top e to A. I always have my unwound/thinner strings closer to the first fret so I tend to gradiate down once the low E is set. As a rule I set my low E to 0.25mm above the first fret and the high e to 0.15mm above the first fret. You can gl lower but they are heights that work well and nothing plays sharp when fretted...
  4. Hopefully, after he's sold it, he buys himself a decent camera
  5. Tech's have different ways on setting nut height at the first fret. As a 'standard' rule, I set my gaps like so: low E = 0.3mm (top of fret to bottom of string) to high e = 0.2mm. This is with the neck relief set at around 0.25mm at the 6th fret (I gradiate down from 0.3mm low E to 0.2 high e: thus: A = 0.28mm, D = 0.26mm, G = 2.4mm, B = 2.2mm). I have always set my nut action like that and nothing plays sharp. You can go lower but I have found that this is a safe bet and nobody has ever returned a guitar when I have set first fret action at those measurements. For stupid low action, I set the low E at 0.2mm and the high e at 0.15mm. It is imperative that you use good nut slot files (I use a Hosco 11 set and these are the best I have used: I tried many)... https://northwestguitars.co.uk/products/hosco-11-piece-nut-slotting-file-set-010-056 Apologies if you don't like mm: we use metric in England...
  6. A good outcome with this it seems! Get Jeff to build you something
  7. Pickups are obvs stock (PATB bridge and the single coil neck equivalent). That has not had a sustainiac as they don't work unless mounted correctly. Those swiches really spoil (and devalue) it for me...
  8. I'd sort that for you no problem! I'm moving to Canada (Ottawa) in 2024: my wife is Canadian. You probably need it done way before I move though. Would be a pleassure to sort it for you though! Here's a Hamer I did a couple of years ago...
  9. Makes the Cent I bought from here with the same finish seem almost free considering I paid an actual 350 for it (from Matt). Sold it on to a guy in England for pretty much the same price a couple of years later. That finish is not pleasing to the eye is it?
  10. Wrong time for me though a guitar I would buy! I will be on the lookout for an Elite of some sort when I move to Canada in the not-too-distant future...
  11. Heck! No wonder I can't find one in England: you have them all
  12. I'm calling bull5h1t on these! There is no way that Chap Elite is going for 1200 francs. I've just been offered one in England for £4k (I'd tell him to wake up and smell the coffee)...
  13. Seriously: if it was possible for me to buy this, I would! I don't move to Canada until August 2024 though. It would be a lot easier for me to get it to Canada than it would to England (where I am now)...
  14. Floyd looks like an import/licensed. Should be a Schaller (Made in Germany) Hamer stamped or at the very least an OFR. I'd buy it for $450 (I have a spare 86 OFR from a US Chap in my parts drawer)! I would buy it if I'd already moved to Canada. Too much hassle to get it to England (when I live right now)...
  15. I've been looking to buy a Gibson V. Never thought of looking for a Greco version. I may have to look now: cracking looking V :)
  16. Decent though I'd ditch the machine heads regardless. They will likely let you down sooner than later IMO...
  17. Offers? That should have sold within seconds. Appeared as SOLD earlier so i don't know what happened there...
  18. That was a great price! You could fix that sliver issue easily if you wanted to...
  19. I've never had a problem removing glued in frets with heat (and a fret chip stopper)...
  20. Same as Jeff: I always try and match the radius or if I do overbend, it's by a hair only! I also always glue frets in now. You must use the very best tools regardless of price. I only use the best tools for everything nowadays: I have learnt that if you buy cheap (tools) you buy many times. I am fortunate that there are some fabulous small-time tool makers in England. Chris Allsop makes amazing tools for stupidly inexpensive prices. I also had a guy (named Haris) in Greece make me stupid-accurate precision tools (he no longer makes them as he runs Halon Guitar Parts). Most of my files are Stewmac diamond files. I have some great Swiss-made smooth files (precision flat and sharp) by Vallorbe (number 4 cut: very smooth). My fret nib cutters are Stewmac and are built to cut stainless. I add 33% more cost on an SS refret but it is worth the extra effort. My tools handle stainless well. In fact, I have had my Stewmac Z-File a couple of years and it's still going strong. They will replace it for free when I need a new one: take advantage of Stewmac's Lifetime Warranty!!! The Super Glue Gel I use is this by Loctite (super good):
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