aknapp Posted November 22, 2012 Posted November 22, 2012 I have a guitar body with binding for which I'm going to use a water-based dye stain.Should I mask off the binding before staining? If so, using blue painter's masking tape is OK, or something else?Will the binding not take the stain?Will the binding take the take the stain, and I can just sand the stain off the binding?Giving Thanx on Turkey Day for any tips or tricks you can provide.
Stike Posted November 22, 2012 Posted November 22, 2012 Just scrape the stain off with a razor blade. It's a good idea to fashion some kind of depth stop so you don't do onto the wood. When staining it's best to get it on as "dry" as possible, you shouldn't be able to wring out the staining rag.Is it a figured maple top? That's about the only wood I direct stain. Everything else like alder or ash I just spray clear with dye concentrate mixed in over the sealer coats that have been level sanded.
aknapp Posted November 22, 2012 Author Posted November 22, 2012 Yep, figure maple top. I've been practicing on a lightly figure maple 1x6. I have learned about the "dry" as possible. The back is mahogany. If I understand your recommendation, I would not stain the mahogany directly, but mix the the dye stain with the clear and spray that after sealer coats. Correct? Thanx for the tips!
Stike Posted November 23, 2012 Posted November 23, 2012 Yep, figure maple top. I've been practicing on a lightly figure maple 1x6. I have learned about the "dry" as possible. The back is mahogany. If I understand your recommendation, I would not stain the mahogany directly, but mix the the dye stain with the clear and spray that after sealer coats. Correct? Thanx for the tips! That's what I prefer to do but there's more than one way to skin a cat so to speak. On the 50's Gibsons they would mix red pigment into the pore filler staining and filling in one step. The red will migrate up into the clear lacquer and bleed out onto the binding to some degree. If you're going for vintage correct this would be the way to go.
murkat Posted November 23, 2012 Posted November 23, 2012 Aniline dye. GCS use to do it up to 2007 ish. THey had to stop, the dye would get airborne and into other finishes (alpine white, making them pink, huge kick out and refin) Now, they are back using it on a very limited basis, Using the a spray booth area designated for sparkle, flake, gold tops, etc.
Stike Posted November 23, 2012 Posted November 23, 2012 Aniline dye. GCS use to do it up to 2007 ish. THey had to stop, the dye would get airborne and into other finishes (alpine white, making them pink, huge kick out and refin) Now, they are back using it on a very limited basis, Using the a spray booth area designated for sparkle, flake, gold tops, etc. Which is exactly why I like Trans Tints. A dedicated flake booth you say? Can't wait!
Question
aknapp
I have a guitar body with binding for which I'm going to use a water-based dye stain.
Should I mask off the binding before staining? If so, using blue painter's masking tape is OK, or something else?
Will the binding not take the stain?
Will the binding take the take the stain, and I can just sand the stain off the binding?
Giving Thanx on Turkey Day for any tips or tricks you can provide.
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