US Hamer Centaura: Wiring Diagram

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Hi...

I just bought a 1990 Centaura. It needs a complete re-wire & pot change. I've taken many pictures & drawn the config but...

Does anyone know where I can source a complete wiring diagram?

The guitar as it is crackles/buzzes like a biatch. On removing the backplate, I noticed that the capaicitor on the tone pot has become dislodged & 2 short wires on the boost switch have come apart (I presume that these should be a bridge as they are so short).

The bridge H/B has been replaced at some poing as has the volume pot. Let's say that the wiring/soldering is not exactly in-house standard hehe - doesn't matter how it got in this state. What matters is, that I've got my fixing boots on & I wanna crack on with it.

There are a few other jobs I have to do ie: refret & bridge-block length. How I go about this remains to be seen but I'm looking forward to getting my 1st US Hamer back up to how it should be. Beautiful guitar & a snip at $350.

TIA, Vic...

[Jem]

Errrr, dah: http://www.hamerfanclub.com/wire/

[e-isle rock]

Whats a bridge block length?

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Errrr, dah: http://www.hamerfanclub.com/wire/

Thanks Jem (I'll know where to look next time)...

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Whats a bridge block length?

Haha. Good question (maybe I should have worded it better but I didn't want to make the post too long-winded).

I meant I need to shorten My trem-block by a couple of mm as it catches the backplate when pulling up on the trem arm. There are 3 ways I can fix this:

1: Shim the neck & raise the bridge.

2: File a couple of mm from the block.

3: Shim the backplate front & back to give more clearance.

Option 3 is my preferred option as the backplate is maetal & less than 1mm thick. This should give me another 2mm clearance between trem-block & backplate.

I shimmed my Korean Diablo as I (partly) filled in my trem cavity & top-mounted a Gotoh FR (that was done as when I sent the Korean for a re-route to fit the Gotoh previously, you could have drove a bus through the gap between trem & body). I want my Cent as original looking as possible (in fact, it will look totally original apart from the bridge p-up).

Cheers...

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

The .pdf I just downloaded is totally different to how my Centaura looks inside. I'm gonna re-solder the cap' & try it before I replace the pots. If everything works as it should, I will rewire the way it is now. Else, I'll rewire as in the .pdf

Images to follow later as I'm currently on a mobile dongle awaiting my modem/router for my new Sky BB acc). I'll have to post when net traffic is less busy :|

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

So. I've re-solded the cap' & the bridge connection on the boost/pot-cut switch. Absolutely no untoward buzzing now & only very minimal hum on the SCs (nothing at all to be concerned about). All pickup configs work as they should & boost/pot-bypass cuts in on all settings.

Gonna completely re-wire & re-pot. Other jobs will be done over the next few weeks.

Sounds & plays fantastic but will be better after a re-wire/re-fret.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

So. I've re-solded the cap' & the bridge connection on the boost/pot-cut switch. Absolutely no untoward buzzing now & only very minimal hum on the SCs (nothing at all to be concerned about). All pickup configs work as they should & boost/pot-bypass cuts in on all settings.

Gonna completely re-wire & re-pot. Other jobs will be done over the next few weeks.

Sounds & plays fantastic but will be better after a re-wire/re-fret.

[Jem]

Whats a bridge block length?

I meant I need to shorten My trem-block by a couple of mm as it catches the backplate when pulling up on the trem arm. There are 3 ways I can fix this:

1: Shim the neck & raise the bridge.

2: File a couple of mm from the block.

3: Shim the backplate front & back to give more clearance.

Option 3 is my preferred option as the backplate is maetal & less than 1mm thick. This should give me another 2mm clearance between trem-block & backplate.

Right, it should come with a 37mm block but even they can catch the backplate if the trem's set low (this is part of the reason so many guitars are missing their backplates). Do not watse your time pissing about shimming stuff, take the block off, go to a machine shop and get them to lop a couple of mm off the top of the block. It's threaded quite a way down so all you have is clean the threads out and re-assemble.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Whats a bridge block length?

I meant I need to shorten My trem-block by a couple of mm as it catches the backplate when pulling up on the trem arm. There are 3 ways I can fix this:

1: Shim the neck & raise the bridge.

2: File a couple of mm from the block.

3: Shim the backplate front & back to give more clearance.

Option 3 is my preferred option as the backplate is maetal & less than 1mm thick. This should give me another 2mm clearance between trem-block & backplate.

Right, it should come with a 37mm block but even they can catch the backplate if the trem's set low (this is part of the reason so many guitars are missing their backplates). Do not watse your time pissing about shimming stuff, take the block off, go to a machine shop and get them to lop a couple of mm off the top of the block. It's threaded quite a way down so all you have is clean the threads out and re-assemble.

Aah. There you go. The block in this is stamped 42mm so that explains that. Also looks like the neck is already shimmed as the trem is set slightly high. I'll remove the screws & have a look. I'll get the block shortened. Cheers...

[e-isle rock]

Whats a bridge block length?

Haha. Good question (maybe I should have worded it better but I didn't want to make the post too long-winded).

I meant I need to shorten My trem-block by a couple of mm as it catches the backplate when pulling up on the trem arm. There are 3 ways I can fix this:

1: Shim the neck & raise the bridge.

2: File a couple of mm from the block.

3: Shim the backplate front & back to give more clearance.

Option 3 is my preferred option as the backplate is maetal & less than 1mm thick. This should give me another 2mm clearance between trem-block & backplate.

I shimmed my Korean Diablo as I (partly) filled in my trem cavity & top-mounted a Gotoh FR (that was done as when I sent the Korean for a re-route to fit the Gotoh previously, you could have drove a bus through the gap between trem & body). I want my Cent as original looking as possible (in fact, it will look totally original apart from the bridge p-up).

Thanks!