Can a dumbass replace a tube socket in a Fender amp?

[Hbom]

I bought a used Super Sonic 22 off Reverb/Musicians Friend and it arrived DOA.

Poking around it looks as though V1 is cattywampus. I'm thinking poor packing and FedEx gorillas allowed the footswitch to move around and it hit the V1 tube case knocking it off a bit, not completely loose. I do get a bit of a glow when powered on.

My question is, can a fumble thumbed simi idiot resolder or replace the socket himself?

Fair soldering skills. Changed a few switches in pedals. Installed quite a few pickups, switches and caps in guitars over the years.

Asking because I don't think there is a reliable tech in my area anymore and shipping costs are killer. As are shippers in general. AMHIK

[velorush]

I say drain the voltage and give it a go!

After you drain the voltage, make sure you've drained the voltage!

After that, test to make sure there's no voltage left in the chassis.

[Saul Goodman]

Doesn't sound like you are a dumbass but read up or watch videos about how to discharge the electrolytic caps. Those will kill you like you have it plugged in the wall and throw it in the bathtub while giving yourself a man-scape.

ETA: include me in your will just in case.

ETAA: @Dutchman is the man to ask. Great guy and quite the amp guru.

ETAAA: Read up on Prop 65 just in case.

Edited 3 hours ago by Saul Goodman

[joshoowah]

Pics of the outside and inside would help establish whether it's easy or requires experience. To be clear, "tube socket" is the multi-hole piece the multipin tube plugs into. The "tube case" is a simple metal cylinder with a spring inside. It acts as a tube retainer and heatsink more than as a shield. It is optional, and if that's what's damaged, after straightening the tube pins, you might not need to touch anything, or maybe just a new 12ax7. But, pics, please!

Edited 2 hours ago by joshoowah

[velorush]

I worked on my OG 60w SuperSonic and other than being PC board, it had an extremely intuitive layout. 

Pictures are your friend (so long as you aren't colorblind 😉).

I found this schematic Fender-Super-Sonic-22-Schematic.pdf if you're into that sort of thing, but the simplest tact is to go pin-for-pin. 

Google AI spit out this pinout:

6V6 Power Tube Socket Pinout

• Pin 1: Internal connection / Empty (No Connection)

• Pin 2: Heater / Filament (heater AC)

• Pin 3: Plate (Anode, High Voltage B+)

• Pin 4: Screen Grid (Grid 2)

• Pin 5: Control Grid (Grid 1)

• Pin 6: Empty / No Connection

• Pin 7: Heater / Filament (heater AC)

• Pin 8: Cathode / Suppressor Grid (K / G3)

Hope this helps.

Absolutely loved my SuperSonic, it was just extremely loud and too heavy for what I was doing. At one point I installed 6V6s (in place of the 6L6s - they were JJs and could handle the higher plate voltage) with a re-bias, of course. If it was any less loud, I couldn't tell. Always wanted to check out the 22w.

ETA: I am really sorry. I just went back and reread the OP and saw that you're asking about V1. I am really sorry for the confusing junk, above. 

Edited 1 hour ago by velorush

[Hbom]

1 hour ago, joshoowah said:

Pics of the outside and inside would help establish whether it's easy or requires experience. To be clear, "tube socket" is the multi-hole piece the multipin tube plugs into. The "tube case" is a simple metal cylinder with a spring inside. It acts as a tube retainer and heatsink more than as a shield. It is optional, and if that's what's damaged, after straightening the tube pins, you might not need to touch anything, or maybe just a new 12ax7. But, pics, please!

Socket. Not retainer. pics too big for this site

 

[Saul Goodman]

48 minutes ago, Hbom said:

Socket. Not retainer. pics too big for this site

 

Can you text them to me? I can resize them for you.