New member - question about tremolo

[primaltone]

I've been lurking on here for while - this is a great site.

I've got a '93 Californian that I'm quite fond of. I love the fast neck and the combination of bright and chunky sounds I get from the maple body and trembuckers.

Unfortunately, while adjusting the intonation of the D string, I stripped the threads in the tremelo that the saddle screw goes into (yes, I'm an idiot). Now I can't adjust the intonation on that string.

Is there anyway to repair this? I thought about:

1- rethreading and using a larger saddle screw

2- filling in the previous hole and retapping

I don't know if either of these will work, and I'm not really sure how to go about '2'.

I looked and can't find a replacement parts for this piece. I know I can buy an enitrely new Original Floyd Rose for $160, but I'd like to keep the guitar original with the Hamer/Schaller hardware. I didn't see any useful parts info on Hamer's site.

I'd appreciate any info you could provide me.

Billy

[tomteriffic]

First off, welcome aboard!

Second, the Hamer/Schaller Floyds are exact with respect to parts and dimensions to an Original Floyd. So, if you can find the right OFR saddle, you should be good to go.

[Lockbody]

Welcome. Nice Cali.

You could get a small nut that matches the thread pitch and spot-weld it to the bottom of the plate.

That, replacing the plate, or your "no. 1" are about all I could come up with.

[Andrew]

There is a perfect repair kit available, but pricey.

Thread repair kits, such as HeliCoil or ReCoil, provide a permanent hardened thread replacement. If I remember correctly, Schaller (Hamer Floyd) used a standard M3.5 bolt (I am not sure, but it is metric) for saddle fixing/intonation. It is just a case of inserting the new thread into the stripped hole.

Andrew.

see:

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil/

[Andrew]

Here's another link for a source of ReCoil:

http://www.newmantools.com/recmet.htm

I am sure many people have had the same problem - I successfully repaired a trem with this product.

[primaltone]

Thanks for all the info. It sounds like I can try first to repair the original trem plate, or replace it with an Original Floyd if I 'screw' it up. Considering my abilities, The insert sounds the most promising.

If I understand the procedure correctly:

- I need to first verify that the hole is an M3.5x0.6 and buy the appropriate insert

- I would then need to open the hole (#27 drill for M3.5)

- Finally, possibily shorten the insert then press in

The pic shows the hole I stripped.

Once again, thanks for the assist.

[stonge]

it is also possible to round over the screw rather than strip out the threaded hole in the baseplate - I've found that a brandy new screw will catch enough thread to hold securely (those are small threads, and you don't have to round one over much to cause it to spin). I bought a couple hundred new ones from McMaster-Carr, so if you want a set of new ones to try send me a snail mail address (to stongemonataoldorcom) and I'll mail you a set free. The alternative is to get a new Schaller baseplate (preferably one of the new ones with the press fits nuts that can be replaced easily rather than throw out the whole baseplate), and transfer the saddles and other parts over to that. Never tried the drill and replace option, so that might work as well. Let me know if you want to try some new screws and I'll send out a set. Nice Cali, by the way.

[tobereeno]

I just used another one of Stonge's Magic Screws three days ago - he's the man

You're not an idiot, the black chrome trem plates all have this problem, and they will all eventually strip out. I replaced most of my trems with Floyd Pro bridges, they have harder plates apparently, they have that Ibanez low-profile design, and even if they do strip (hasn't yet knock on wood), with three screw holes instead of two, the compromise of letting the saddle pull flush with the saddle bolt is not so bad.

[atquinn]

I have no useful info to add, but I think it's cool that your guitar looks like mine (or at least did before I put a cool rails into the neck position ). Welcome to the board!

[primaltone]

stonge: thanks a million - email's on its way. If this works and I don't have to remove the trem.... let's just say I'll be very happy.

Even though the Hamer trem's are supposed to be top notch, I suppose I still have to be careful. I have a habit of learning the hard way. Back in the day, my guitar shop tech used to yell at me for overtightening the nut bolts too much.

That's a beautiful Cali, atquinn. Either the finish looks better on yours, you take better pictures, or a little of both. I've now seen a total of two with this finish.

[atquinn]

I've now seen a total of two with this finish.

Me too . And, I didn't take the picture, the guy that sold it to me did. The pictures I take usually don't look quite that good (understatement ).

-Austin

[primaltone]

Today was a good Monday. I received the 'magic screws' from stonge today, and they truely are magic! Hitting the upper frets no longer causes my dog to howl.

Thanks again to stonge and everyone else for their suggestions.

BTW: I'll soon have a two-Hamer family. I just purchased a TSB Standard Custom, and it'll be on its way shortly. Can't wait.

[BillW]

I just used another one of Stonge's Magic Screws three days ago - he's the man

You're not an idiot, the black chrome trem plates all have this problem, and they will all eventually strip out. I replaced most of my trems with Floyd Pro bridges, they have harder plates apparently, they have that Ibanez low-profile design, and even if they do strip (hasn't yet knock on wood), with three screw holes instead of two, the compromise of letting the saddle pull flush with the saddle bolt is not so bad.

Actually - so do the chrome ones ( my diablo II had that happen right away)

I've been using a piece of metal set to the correct width in front of the saddle to 'sort of' hold the intonation as close as I can get - maybe I'll try the bigger screws.

Stonge, where did you get those ?

[stonge]

I just used another one of Stonge's Magic Screws three days ago - he's the man

You're not an idiot, the black chrome trem plates all have this problem, and they will all eventually strip out. I replaced most of my trems with Floyd Pro bridges, they have harder plates apparently, they have that Ibanez low-profile design, and even if they do strip (hasn't yet knock on wood), with three screw holes instead of two, the compromise of letting the saddle pull flush with the saddle bolt is not so bad.

Actually - so do the chrome ones ( my diablo II had that happen right away)

I've been using a piece of metal set to the correct width in front of the saddle to 'sort of' hold the intonation as close as I can get - maybe I'll try the bigger screws.

Stonge, where did you get those ?

I picked those screws up from McMaster-Carr - I don't have the bag with the part number in front of me at the moment but they are a standard metric screw (most manufacturers will go with standard hardware if possible, so if you can figure out a partno you can usually get better quality much cheaper from the right sources - remember how much ram upgrades for your computer cost from the mfg rather than Corsair or Mushkin? lol). I'll post the partno later tonight - I think they cost about $5 per hundred screws. Only problem is that they only have black oxide finish - no chrome or nickle plated which are specialty items for Schallers. Personally, I can live with the mismatch of black screws on a chrome plate (but not the other way around lol). Email me (stongemonataoldawtcom) a snail mail address and I'll mail out a dozen or so free to you.

You still taking care of my old Centaura Deluxe? That was a real nice one...

[BillW]

You still taking care of my old Centaura Deluxe?  That was a real nice one...

Yep still got it. That is one fine guitar. It doesn't make it out live as much as when I first got it ( I prefer beaters live, and that deluxe is just too cherry to beat on) but I still got it. Wife wants me to thin the herd soon, though, so it maybe on the auction block at some point - did you still want dibs?

Oh ... and I totally appreciate it, but I can look into some screws locally( "I got an angle"). I'll let you know if that changes, though ...

Peace,

And "Hi" to the Mrs.

- Bill

[stonge]

You still taking care of my old Centaura Deluxe?  That was a real nice one...

Yep still got it. That is one fine guitar. It doesn't make it out live as much as when I first got it ( I prefer beaters live, and that deluxe is just too cherry to beat on) but I still got it. Wife wants me to thin the herd soon, though, so it maybe on the auction block at some point - did you still want dibs?

Oh ... and I totally appreciate it, but I can look into some screws locally( "I got an angle"). I'll let you know if that changes, though ...

Peace,

And "Hi" to the Mrs.

- Bill

I believe the screws are Metric Socket Head Cap Screws M3 thread 8mm length .50 mm thread which is part number 91290A113 on www.mcmaster.com ($4.32 per 100). I'm looking for my old invoices (and the other 3 bags that I ordered and misplaced around here lol), but the bag I found has those specs printed on it (so hopefully that's right).

yeah, that is a nice Centaura Deluxe - please let me know if it becomes available. Ebony and EMGs, and a real nice sunburst. Wouldn't mind getting that one back at all, it was a great guitar. Thanks, stonge

[stonge]

Today was a good Monday. I received the 'magic screws' from stonge today, and they truely are magic! Hitting the upper frets no longer causes my dog to howl.

Thanks again to stonge and everyone else for their suggestions.

BTW: I'll soon have a two-Hamer family. I just purchased a TSB Standard Custom, and it'll be on its way shortly. Can't wait.

Glad those screws worked for you - that is a really nice Cali.

two Hamers in the house? Yah, that's how it starts. I think we all know how the herd grows after the first two lol... Seriously, congrats - a TSB Standard Custom is classic Hamer. Please post photos when it arrives.