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About BoogieMKIIA

  • Rank
    Inner Circle

Previous Fields

  • guitars
    2002 Studio Custom, ‘73 Les Paul Deluxe with full size HB, Japan Squier Strat
  • amps
    Mesa Boogie MKIIA in custom Black Limbs cab, Mesa Express 5:25+, Marshall JMP 1976 50W with 4x12
  • fx
    MidiVerb II, ADA TFX4

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Georgetown, KY USA
  • Interests
    Electric and acoustic guitars.

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  1. I didn't realize how much entertainment this post would provide. Thanks.
  2. It wasn’t expensive then but would be now if I kept it. About a 1964 SG with Maestro Vibrola and humbuckers. Bought at a flea market from a seminary student, $185. I’d guess it would be worth $8k up today. The photo is not mine but that’s what it looked like. The most I paid for a guitar was $1500 for a Taylor GS Custom 12 string. Built to the owner’s spec, mahogany sides and back, sunburst Sitka top, ebony board and head plate, super case. Probably cost $3K new.
  3. Nice Vector. How is the asking price? https://reverb.com/item/39907355-hamer-usa-vector-2005-korina?utm_source=rev-ios-app&utm_medium=ios-share&utm_campaign=listing&utm_content=39907355
  4. I unbolted the neck Sunday to shim. Found thick finish at all 4 corners and one with a piece of tape. Removed the excess finish carefully with an X-acto knife and put it back together since it was getting late. About the same as before. If I adjust the high E saddle at 5/64 or above it is sort of OK. Fret rocker and radius gauges will arrive this week. If all looks OK I will shim and see. Suspecting I may have several uneven frets. If so, to the shop and let a pro take care of it. Will still be a good deal overall and I think the tone is great. one other issue is static on the pick g
  5. Would be simple and non-destructive. Even if I take it to the shop in the end, will have learned more about setups and how to find issues. With the good deal I got, the cost for professional work is even more worth it. The guitar really sounds great. Thanks to all for the ideas.
  6. I capoed the first fret to check relief and action, the buzzing remained.
  7. I don’t hear buzzing at the nut when the sting is open and the distance of the open string to the fret or fingerboard is not short. Posting a pic that was the original reason for the question. While the action is not low, it is certainly not high and the saddle height adjustment screws are near the top of their travel. If the neck angle increased slightly, I could lower the saddles to get the the 12th or 17th fret height I am now. The string could come off the fret at a larger angle and have more space to vibrate.
  8. I adjust relief with the guitar on my leg as if I were playing it. Checked it flat and did not see much difference. I measured string to fret and use feeler gauges, what I am able to do. Tightened the truss rod to flatten and things got worse so I loosened it to improve. Raised high E saddle a little. I have no tools or experience to mess with the nut, which is not in play up the neck or with the capo on the 1st fret. Seems relief is more on the bass side, less on the treble side. I ordered a fret rocker and radius gauges, maybe I can learn something about the frets and my saddle setup.
  9. Ah, a reason to buy some tools! Good suggestion. I can’t see straight, a bit iffy to take a file to the frets. Maybe, and mire tools to buy or borrow.
  10. Thanks. I have about 0.010” relief at the 7th fret. The buzzing and fretting out is around the 12th fret and higher. Easy to loosen the truss rod see but sounds like frets from what you are saying. Action measured at 12th fret is 4/64, no capo on first fret (G&L method) and 4/64 at 17th fret with capo on first fret (Fender method). Can’t go lower without starting to fret out on the higher frets, high E string.
  11. I am trying to dial in my new ASAT Classic Tribute (import) and having trouble getting the high E lower and not buzzing of fretting out. If it is fret related I will take it to someone how knows what they are doing. Could a too shallow neck angle be a cause? A flat neck angle would mean less space for the string to move. As the saddle goes lower, the sting will just lay on all the frets. Asking because a lot of info on shims describes where saddle height is at extreme high or low travel, need to shim to allow adjustment. My saddles are near top of height, buzz happens when I go lowe
  12. Yes, the ash looks very nice. I haven’t weighed mine but it is not light! Frets definitely need polishing or lots of playing. My fingerboard got dirty from the strings and it won’t wipe off with just a cloth. May try damp cloth or naptha. Going to get Allen wrenches so I can lower the very high action. Certainly not a T-51, we knew that. I am just now turning off my eBay and Reverb feeds. Looks like some folks may have snagged these and are trying to turn them around for $400+
  13. For my setup, the tones without the pedal engaged get a little dark. Will try your suggestion again and see what happens. I started using a Valve Reamer for an lower gain dirty tone, the Boogie dirty channel for more.
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