Adhesive question to set a neck...

[Hamer Dave]

Got to glue a neck back into the body. It's a newer USA Gibson. Pretty clean separation. Appears they just didn't put enough sticky stuff in there. Lol! Having had much success with Titebond on headstock breaks. But is epoxy a better choice with setting the neck heel? Of course the tenon route could be better. Kinda snug, but over routed toward the end. My thought is Epoxy will likely fill more of the void in there. Or is Titebond still a great way to go. Not to mention easier to clean up. Let me know from your experiences what I should do. I will certainly check angle before setting and clamping to cure. I'd hope that is all good. Thanks.

dave

[murkat]

43 minutes ago, Hamer Dave said:

It's a newer USA Plant Gibson

(fixed)

Titebond is good, but shrinks. but if there are contact gaps... contact area prep and Epoxy cocktail would be fine and dandy.

[Hamer Dave]

Thanks Jay! I like working with Titebond, but understand it shrinks. What epoxy do you prefer for the heel?

[Steve Haynie]

How new is "newer" on this Gibson?  The glue should have been done right to last beyond the lifetime of the original buyer. 

[veatch]

Are you the original owner?  I thought Gibsons has lifetime warranties...

[murkat]

8 hours ago, Hamer Dave said:

What epoxy do you prefer

a medium cure time epoxy. Most are just about the same. Most of the time I get the twin bottles at home depot.

and sometimes I will "cocktail" the epoxy with sawdusts of the same wood type as well as size of for the application.

and sometimes I will dilute, thin out using acetone per application.

and sometimes I will add pigment to match wood color, stains, finish color, etc.

All depends on the job, preparation, application, to achieve the best result.

If you are not familiar working with epoxy, I suggest take a day and have some fun with it with some scrap for better understanding of and applications.

[Hamer Dave]

14 hours ago, murkat said:

a medium cure time epoxy. Most are just about the same. Most of the time I get the twin bottles at home depot.

and sometimes I will "cocktail" the epoxy with sawdusts of the same wood type as well as size of for the application.

and sometimes I will dilute, thin out using acetone per application.

and sometimes I will add pigment to match wood color, stains, finish color, etc.

All depends on the job, preparation, application, to achieve the best result.

If you are not familiar working with epoxy, I suggest take a day and have some fun with it with some scrap for better understanding of and applications.

Yes, all great tips from a repair guru. I've used a slower setting (not 5 min) epoxy on my set neck build, and worked with adding pigment to epoxy for inlay. Hadn't thought of the added wood, though I've done that with wood dust and cyanoacrylate with wonderful result on worn fingerboards, and voids around binding work. I will now definitely consider a couple additional options. I certainly want some useful time to set, and clamp it well. My understanding is the slower curing epoxies are also stronger, or is it that you can set it properly before it starts curing, that they say that? Thanks Jay!

[Hamer Dave]

On ‎7‎/‎1‎/‎2016 at 2:52 PM, murkat said:

(fixed)

Titebond is good, but shrinks. but if there are contact gaps... contact area prep and Epoxy cocktail would be fine and dandy.

Jay,

Per Gibson on-line, their specs on this show they used 'not so much' Franklin Titebond 50 on this one. They must be slapping these out silly.

[murkat]

On 7/5/2016 at 10:19 AM, Hamer Dave said:

They must be slapping these out silly

the number for the plant is about 300 per day.

the number for the GCS is about 48 per day.

I do not know for memphis.

[HSB0531]

On July 1, 2016 at 3:06 PM, Hamer Dave said:

Got to glue a neck back into the body. It's a newer USA Gibson. Pretty clean separation. Appears they just didn't put enough sticky stuff in there. Lol! Having had much success with Titebond on headstock breaks. But is epoxy a better choice with setting the neck heel? Of course the tenon route could be better. Kinda snug, but over routed toward the end. My thought is Epoxy will likely fill more of the void in there. Or is Titebond still a great way to go. Not to mention easier to clean up. Let me know from your experiences what I should do. I will certainly check angle before setting and clamping to cure. I'd hope that is all good. Thanks.

dave

Yellow carpenters glue.

I always used Elmers brand over TiteBond because the shop I worked at used TiteBond and it was always thinner and didn't hold as well.

The Elmers carpenters glue was thicker, didn't shrink, and was much stronger than the wood being bonded.