mathman

Sometimes I think I shouldn’t worry about my kids inheritance….

I’ll give you half a 20 now if you tell me who by the end of the thread…

I have this exact guitar except I upgraded pickups and tuners. I still like it a lot. If it isn’t selling it may be the price or the audience. 🤔

Reading is fundamental.... Thanks

That's purty but I wonder why no decal on headstock. Refin?

I have never minded my Hamer's painted/finished necks but my first bass was a USA Fender Bullet Bass. The cheap series before they moved it to import builds. It had a varnished neck. I sanded that down with in days of buying it and have never regretted it. Definitely a forever bass.

Import Hamer 12 string bass. that's all.

So, over the last 4 years it has been 2 new basses in and erm.. let me count... oh yea, zero going out. 😀

Eventually I will do a proper fix but using my duck tape and bailing wire certifications I have the tail piece stable and the bass is staying in tune. Back to having fun with this bad boy….

There is a really good shop in Tampa that actually has some Hamer ties that I have used to do a setup on my Prototype and to install some of Josh's pickups in my old Fender bass. Since I am 98% positive this is mahogany wood and not the soft basswood of the later imports I am putting some support washers under the tailpiece and adding slightly larger and much better screws into the wood. Will be stringing it up tomorrow ( and maybe for a few days. 12 freaking strings! ha) but it feels way more stable at this point. If this doesn't work then I will consider something else. One thing mentioned in the other thread was that the screws turned in the wood and didn't catch. Actually the original screws removed with no problem and then held pretty well once reinstalled with adding the support of some metal washers. But I decided to take Dutchman's advice and go slightly larger in the wood screws. If it has to be doweled out and replaced then a slightly bigger screw would make not difference. I do think the tuners are not that great. (no surprise, it is the import) So, if the tailpiece holds well, I will probably replace the tuners. I guess that will be a piece meal method of sourcing those. again, Thanks for all the help

sounds amazing

Well, quickly realized why that won't work. Tailpiece has a large opening for the two higher octave strings and a smaller for the low octave string. Flipping the taillpiece changes the order and it won't match the tuners any longer. So, back to other methods.

Actually, I think I could do this and not drill new screw holes and have it lay flat. Is that extra half inch going to affect anything as far as intonation or tuning? I don't think it would since the bridge will not move. The strings will be a little bit longer so slightly less tension but would it be enough to matter?

Winner, winner, Chicken Dinner! So, while I had great fun playing this beast it required constant re-tuning. So, either the tuners are bad (probably cheap) or the tailpiece is not holding steady. So, yea, not great tuners but the tail piece has definitely dug into the body. The screws appear to be more like sheet metal than wood screws. Not much thread if you know what I mean. Definitely a dent in the body. Wondering if just a simple metal plate under the bridge would make it stable. I will be honest. I am not so concerned with how it looks as to how it plays. Pics.

I bought the T7 version 4 years ago. Great sounding monitors. Also added their subwoofer.

Too bad about the signature…. jk 🤣 I know some people love autographs and some people don’t. ymmv

Well I got the basic wiring done but the main volume pot I bought won’t fit now that the pickup wires are ran through the body. Beginner mistake. The pot fit without the pickup wire pushed through but the outlet opening is right beside the pot. Bought a smaller pot that will be here tomorrow.

22 or 47? does it really matter?

Some waiting photos...from it's previous life.

I know that some capacitors can wear out. (See home A/C system). Is that an issue with a guitar? As with much of the inter webs lots of pontification about knowledge but not always providing knowledge. Seems the use rate of a tone pot capacitor is way different than the capacitor starting your compressor. So, wanting the knowledge of esteemed guitar gurus of HFC... Reuse the old capacitors or buy new. I think after exploring the interwebs, I am not putting a capacitor on the volume pot for now. (if my inquiries are getting tedious, feel free to ignore or make fun of them.) either way is good! I am waiting on parts for a project I started years ago. It is what it is at this point....

The layout is not optimal for that. Too far to reach volumes

I can agree but the layout of the pots don't really work for that. maybe I could get a special pull push pot that works as volume for both pickups.... Lots of shit is possible but I've only replaced pickups (once) and input jacks (few times) at this point. KISS method going on here. 😀

Got my cardboard template setup. And a better picture of the guitar.

Putting in new pots and new 3 way. 3 way will be here later. The original wiring had a 4.7nF (0.0047uF ) capacitor on what I think was the tone pots. Should I put them back on the new setup? I also have one that the google says is a Cornell Dubilier (CDE) 715P Series Orange Drop® film capacitor. I think it is 47uf also. The google says these are generally for single coils but will be humbuckers. Should I use them on the tones? Should I consider one on the volume pot? supposedly keeps the highs when you lower volume. Definitely something I do when playing.