Rhys Posted March 2, 2008 Posted March 2, 2008 What sort of Bigsby is it? Floating bridge type or the sort with the string tension bar? The tension bar type are harder to keep in tune. Generally Bigsbys prefer heavier strings - on my Gretsches I used 11s. You might get away with 10s but don't go lower. When you put your strings on keep the break angle at the nut quite shallow to stop any catching. Make sure any points the strings pass over (especially the nut) are well lubricated - I use "Big Bends nut sauce" on all my tremolo guitars & they stay in tune just fine. Finally (and this may sound obvious but I've heard people complain about this) don't expect a Bigsby to do things you can do with a Floyd or even a Strat tremolo. Finally, if putting the strings onto the pins on the Bigsby is driving you crazy try pre-curving the ball end of the string first - it makes changing strings much easier. Hope this helps
santellavision Posted March 2, 2008 Posted March 2, 2008 I recommend doing the Tom Anderson mod to Bigsby's. You remove the stupid pins and drill it out. Then run the strings through the bar. All mine stay in perfect tune.
Willie G. Moseley Posted March 2, 2008 Posted March 2, 2008 Just remember that the original intent of Bigsbys and other early vibrato systems (RE: Stratocaster) was primarily to emulate a steel guitar (usually a volume pedal was also incorporated), so "dive bomber" tricks and other such actions could--and usually does--play havoc w/ tuning. They're not "delicate", but they simply weren't designed for such intense manipulation.
Wizard333 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Posted March 2, 2008 Its a B7 so it does have that tension bar, which I highly suspect is most of the issue. Anyone try going over the top of that bar instead of under it? Also, with that drill out mod, do you have problems with the strings breaking there as they come through that bar and bend at a hard angle? I use heavy strings (13-62) std pitch so no problem with being a rubber band player. I also know its not a strat bridge and couldnt be if it wanted to, but this thing just wont stay in tune in stock form if I even accidentally brush against it.
Monacosis Posted March 2, 2008 Posted March 2, 2008 I recommend doing the Tom Anderson mod to Bigsby's. You remove the stupid pins and drill it out. Then run the strings through the bar. All mine stay in perfect tune.+1 on this mod. i did it to mine and have no problems w/ staying in tune or breakage. oh, and a BIG PLUS: it is also much easier to restring now.mikePS: mine doesn't look nearly as nice as Ernie's, though. actually ruined one bar trying to get the pins out, but Bigsby sent me another.
Wizard333 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Posted March 2, 2008 Can you give me front/back photos of the mod with the strings going through? Also, is there a detailed write up somewhere? Thanks!
RobB Posted March 3, 2008 Posted March 3, 2008 Anyone try going over the top of that bar instead of under it? I wouldn't try that, unless your bridge can be raised high enough to get the proper string back-angle. They're not designed to do that. Also, with that drill out mod, do you have problems with the strings breaking there as they come through that bar and bend at a hard angle? I had that mod done to my MexiTele's B5. Works great, haven't popped a string yet (I use 10-46 set). I'd imagine it'd be even harder to break .013's! Just make sure the new holes are cleanly counter-sunk and deburred. Plus one what Rhys said. Make sure the nut slots are clean, well-lubed with Big Bends and have enough wraps on the string post to get a good down-angle to the tuners. I use teflon bike lube and small, disposable pipettes to oil up the moving parts on the Bigsby and Big Bends for the nut. Use sparingly, as a little goes a long way and it's easy to use too much. ALSO, before you use ANY oil on your hardware, put a small drop on the guitar's finish in a hidden place (inside lip of control cavity cover, pickup routes, etc., let it sit for a while and see if the lacquer reacts. My MexiTele is impervious; you throw darts at it and it wouldn't flinch! Coupla more tips: Use the shorter, 3/4" spring, as it lets the bar sit a bit closer to the top. The threaded bolt attached to the bar is not threaded all the way to the bottom of its shaft, where it attaches to the spring area. When you tighten the two nuts against the small spring, they stop about 3/4 of way up, leaving the bar to quickly loosen and get spongy/wobbly. Quick fix: Install the small spring and find larger nut that will go over the threads, but not bite into them. Then install the supplied nuts below the larger nut (essentially a "washer" now...) and wrench them down. This really helped the feel of the bar, no more slop and the feel is truer. This article has some good advice, too: Gibson's Bigsby Setup Tips
Wizard333 Posted March 3, 2008 Author Posted March 3, 2008 Coupla more tips: Use the shorter, 3/4" spring, as it lets the bar sit a bit closer to the top. The threaded bolt attached to the bar is not threaded all the way to the bottom of its shaft, where it attaches to the spring area. When you tighten the two nuts against the small spring, they stop about 3/4 of way up, leaving the bar to quickly loosen and get spongy/wobbly. Quick fix: Install the small spring and find larger nut that will go over the threads, but not bite into them. Then install the supplied nuts below the larger nut (essentially a "washer" now...) and wrench them down. This really helped the feel of the bar, no more slop and the feel is truer.That sounds interesting but you lost me. Where can I get the shorter spring and the nuts? From Bigsby directly or Allparts or?Also, do you have any pics of a string wound the way they are talking about there? Its very different than the way I've been doing it, at least on non locking tuners, for 30 years!
RobB Posted March 4, 2008 Posted March 4, 2008 That sounds interesting but you lost me. Where can I get the shorter spring and the nuts? From Bigsby directly or Allparts or? Also, do you have any pics of a string wound the way they are talking about there? Its very different than the way I've been doing it, at least on non locking tuners, for 30 years! Yes, Wiz, my apologies. I'm a spazzy writer, as my spelling is excellent and my grammar atrocious. If you like the way your Bigsby feels, don't mess widdit. Mine just needed a tune-up and I had a few tricks done to it. I would recommend, though, having the bar drilled out. I've found that mod makes life easier and helps w/sustain and tuning. Try these guys for Bigsby parts: Gutar Parts Resource Bigsby Page. They ship quickly and have pretty good prices. As far as the string winding goes, just add a bit more length to the string than you normally do so that the tuner post has a few more windings going down towards the headstock face. If the strings are properly installed/stretched on the post, the extra slop of the added windings won't be be a problem. Post a pic of your geetar when you get it set up!
Wizard333 Posted March 6, 2008 Author Posted March 6, 2008 Can you tell me what size bit you used to do the holes and the flaring? Did you do the flaring on both sides so that the ball end sits into the bar a bit? Did you use a drill press or clamp and drill? Its always interesting trying to get that hole started straight on a round surface. Thanks!
santellavision Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 Can you tell me what size bit you used to do the holes and the flaring? Did you do the flaring on both sides so that the ball end sits into the bar a bit?My Anderson came with mod already done. I did do it to my Gretsch also. It's flared at both ends. When you pull the pins out, you have nice guide holes, just measure twice and drill once. I used a fairly large bit to lightly flare the ends. The flare doesn't need to be too much, just a bit to let the string ends sit tight on the bar. I've had no issues with string breakage at all.
LittleC Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 Hhmmm.... Mine ralely ever goes out. If your nut's lubed and you've strung up properly, perhaps there is something sticking, like the spring or the shaft, or something...?
Caddie Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 Just remember that the original intent of Bigsbys and other early vibrato systems (RE: Stratocaster) was primarily to emulate a steel guitar (usually a volume pedal was also incorporated), so "dive bomber" tricks and other such actions could--and usually does--play havoc w/ tuning. They're not "delicate", but they simply weren't designed for such intense manipulation.+1If you wanna hear what a Bigs does best listen to old surf music or rockabilly. Setzer is a master of the Bigs. Dick Dale was pretty good at it with a Strat bridge. If you really need to dive bomb I'd suggest you go for something else.Just my $0.02noonan
Wizard333 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Posted March 9, 2008 I must have missed the part where I said I needed to divebomb. Oh wait! Thats because its not there......When doing the through-the-bar mod, how do you remove the pins? I read elsewhere they are screwed in, but mine seem to be part of the bar, although I cant figure out how they could have assembled this that way. Perhaps they did the plating after assembly.
santellavision Posted March 9, 2008 Posted March 9, 2008 My Gretsch's Bigsby was plated after the pins were inserted. They were pushed into the bar. I pulled them out with a pliers. Then I had guide holes to drill from.
Wizard333 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Posted March 9, 2008 My Gretsch's Bigsby was plated after the pins were inserted. They were pushed into the bar. I pulled them out with a pliers. Then I had guide holes to drill from.Did you have to do something special to crack the plating first? Mine are quite stubborn, I've been working at them for an hour now, somewhat gently but not too gently, and they wont budge.
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