Bridge work on an Ibanez acoustic?

[specialk]

Hey guys,

I'm running a bottom feeder ad on the local CL, wanting to get the best acoustic I can for $50. So far two replies.

1. " t is Jasmine Takamine S135 acoustic guitar. This is a new guitar. No breaks on it."

So far as I know, these are plywood guitars, correct?

2. "I purchased an Ibanez Lonestar acoustic guitar on eBay several years ago. I got it for $150. When it arrived, I noticed the bridge was pulling up from the pressure of the strings on the neck. I notified the seller and he apologized and sent half my money back, so I have $75 in it. It still plays great, and the bridge hasn't gotten worse, so it may be a pretty good player for some time yet."

I am really leaning towards the Ibanez Lonestar. So far as I know, these are acoustics with electric necks. But he mentions the bridge pulling up. It may not get worse, but again it may. Any idea if this is a hard or expensive fix if it does get worse?

Sorry, no pics of either. I hope to get more replies but need to make a decision in the next couple of days. Any opinions, expert or not?

Thanks for any help!

[zenmindbeginner]

The bridge pulling up usually means the subsequent belly lift is most likely really a bridge plate problem which led to the bridge instability in the first place.

Buying an acoustic guitar on Craigslist doesn't seem like a good idea... basically, the cheaper acoustic guitars ALL have crap bridgeplates.

The bridgeplate might be the most important part on a steel string acoustic guitar. To replace it is MADNESS and requires an INSANELY difficult repair that you will have to sign a form which says that if the luthier fucks up your guitar in the process, it's your problem not his. You have to get your forearm all of the way into the soundhole and be able to do some delicate work while the soundhole is pinching off the blood supply in your arm... one wrong muscle flex and it's bye bye to the rosette.

Also, removing the bridgeplate and getting the top to lay flat is a whole 'nother bag of worms. Bridgeplate repairs range from $250-$500 and you risk the destruction of your guitar in the process.

You need to be able to see pictures and be able to return the guitar in case the bridgeplate is buggered up... not likely in Craigslist.

I'd go the eBay route because you can ask the seller to disclose the bridgeplate wear data to you and then be able to accurately represent your case to Paypal if it is not as described.

An inspection mirror is a MUST when buying an acoustic steel string guitar (unless it is an Ovation).

In your favor is the fact that plywood guitars can sound amazing with proper kerfing and good veneers (and the application thereof).

Some of the older Epiphones and Takamines made by Matsumoku in the 70's have serious tone. But of course the secret is that they are made in Japan and Japan is basically one of the world's best places for veneers.

[Jimbilly]

I think some of the lower end Takamines do have solid tops, Takamine is good about putting as S at the end of the model number of their guitars with solid tops (two esses, SS, means solid back and sides for Takamine). I'd take a peek at that Jasmine and look at the top.

Otherwise, the cheapest solid top acoustics I'm seeing are the recent Chinese Fenders; DG8s etc. Not horrible or awful guitars.

[cynic]

You could always remove the tension from the bridge and place it elsewhere. Accessories such as these can take a $50 guitar into the neighborhood of a $53.29 guitar.

[specialk]

Thanks, everyone.

ZMB, big thanks for the in-depth info. Guess I was hoping for more of a "glue and a couple clamps" answer.

I think I'm just gonna pull the plug on this little experiment.

[tomteriffic]

The Jasmine might be worth a look. Typically these things will need three things right out of the box:

1) Cure the fret sprout

2) Lower the saddle

3) Tweak the truss rod.

For fitty bux plus that stuff you might have a pretty good box.