benjammin308 Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 I'm talking about the stuff you coat the inside of the control cavity with. What's it called, where do I get it, and are there any secrets to using it or applying it? I'm trying to do things right, and this forum rocks...
Jem Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 http://www.stewmac.com/Shopping?actn=searc...p;x=40&y=16That'll be sheilding paint then.
zenmindbeginner Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Stew Mac sells a good shielded paint, there are others out there so look around to get the best deal, the Stew Mac stuff is good quality though. It's carbon based paint so you need just two or three coats. Just paint it on with a little disposable brush and you should be good, just make sure to get some paint in all of the screw holes. Paint all of the cavities and shield the back of the control cover with some aluminum self adhesive shielding tape (make sure that it contacts the screw holes and recessed areas).You should already have a ground wire underneath your bridge plate or connected to the tremolo claw, just re-attach it and make sure to shield the back of your pickguard with aluminum tape if you've got one.I'm sure someone here will elaborate and go into greater detail about proper shielding to avoid EMI/RFI interference.
murkat Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 save the headache of the paint. go to Lowe's and get a roll of copper tape.
Devnor Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 save the headache of the paint. go to Lowe's and get a roll of copper tape.Wear gloves too...those tape cuts are a killer.
Jem Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 save the headache of the paint. go to Lowe's and get a roll of copper tape. When did picking up a paint brush become a headache ?!?!?
tbonesullivan Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 When did picking up a paint brush become a headache ?!?!? the shielding paint can be kinda nasty. It's not exactly nice smelling and is a pain to put on. Copper conductive tape can be a lot easier.Also, if it's a hamer, it should have an aluminum control plate, so no shielding needed for the cover.
Jem Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 When did picking up a paint brush become a headache ?!?!? the shielding paint can be kinda nasty. It's not exactly nice smelling and is a pain to put on. Copper conductive tape can be a lot easier.Also, if it's a hamer, it should have an aluminum control plate, so no shielding needed for the cover. I've never found it hard to put on at all and compared to some of the 2k paint i use it smells like roses by comparison.
zenmindbeginner Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 Dude! Those shielding jobs look puuuurty!!!! Can you possibly hook both of those guitars to the same rig and maybe bring a fluorescent light near your rig and see how the two different shielding methods reject the RFI? Maybe stand next to a running CRT monitor if you've still got one or throw a burrito in the microwave and watch it cook while you play? I'm serious, as this would be a great way to test the efficacy of the paint versus the tape and would go a long way into proving which method rejects the most EMI/RFI. Please?
specialk Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 Dude! Those shielding jobs look puuuurty!!!! Can you possibly hook both of those guitars to the same rig and maybe bring a fluorescent light near your rig and see how the two different shielding methods reject the RFI?This is actually a damn good idea! Unfortunately, the painted one is long gone. The taped one was done professionally, not by me. Both cavities are from HB Specials, so they probably wouldn't make the best test subjects anyway....
Guest JackButler Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 save the headache of the paint. go to Lowe's and get a roll of copper tape. When did picking up a paint brush become a headache ?!?!? LOL! AWESOMENESS!
murkat Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 save the headache of the paint. go to Lowe's and get a roll of copper tape. When did picking up a paint brush become a headache ?!?!? As a luthier, guitar tech, in my years of experience, A. if you "really" need to shield the cavity, copper (100% conductive) is the way to go. And if plan to resale the guitar in the future, copper tape is easy to remove. B. The paint shielding is hit and miss, not always 100%, a "headache" to remove if not satisfied with its performance, properties, resale value. I'm just sayin, my two cents.
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benjammin308
I'm talking about the stuff you coat the inside of the control cavity with. What's it called, where do I get it, and are there any secrets to using it or applying it? I'm trying to do things right, and this forum rocks...
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