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Scepter broken point repair


brddg

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Finally got around to this project last weekend. I will say that my original plans were to totally restore this one. However, the condition besides the broken point steered me away from that plan. 
I’m no woodworker but this seemed easy enough. To start I sanded the broken edge flat. Then made a paper template, easy considering the straight lines of each side told me where to go. Got a piece of mahogany from the local shop and rough cut it. I cut it a little bigger than needed to allow for hand blending and in case it moved at all when the glue was drying. After it dried I sanded to shape keeping the area as small as possible. Seems like I got the wrong color of hawg. Went ahead with it as it won’t be visible through the paint. 
Next some minor filler at some small spots on the joint and a few other dings around the perimeter. I’m be goal here is to keep the repair outside the bevels and avoid so much refinishing. More to come

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33 minutes ago, Steve Haynie said:

You will regret that new point the first time it hits your thigh or another band member.   It does look good, though. 

Steve, after you get to know me you’ll realize it’s not the kind of thing I’d regret. Plus I’m the only surviving band member thanks to my ironbird w/ harpoon headstock 💀

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I did the same to my Scepter. jumped off a riser with no strap locks .....stupid......lol....

looks like your doing a great job ! 

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Mine had the EXACT SAME damage when I purchased it from some dude from Germany.

The Beveled-point of the wood in that area had a few local Luthiers/Repair-shop dudes telling me to put it back in the case and move-on.

I took it to Shannon Huss at HEL, who apprenticed under BCR Greg - "No Problem!"  He shaped and grafted some Mahog on the affected area, re-capped the top with some veneer to hide a few 'prototype' holes made, now it's working through the paint-booth as we speak.....

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Update. I have been working on this. It’s just that making money gets in the way of my hobbies. 🙁. So I’m showing how the paint was feathered and then put in a Hamer-esque white primer. 

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I had figured that matching the 3-stage would probably be the worst part of this project and wasn’t disappointed. Had to start from scratch with it. Fortunately I picked the right pearl and toner to get it. Started with this lay down panel to check the number of coats and transparency of mid coat. The resulting material looks more like whipped eggs than paint but will get the job done. The last pic is after tinting about eight times. I did lighten it slightly after this but no picture. The spray out card is slightly curled at the top and is why it looks dark. Now to get some color on it 

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