Anyone replaced the nut on a Hamer XT indonesian Vector?

[VectorGuy]

Hello,

I'm looking to replace the cheap plastic nut on my Hamer Vector XT as it's showing tuning issues and string binding. Looking to go with a Tusq Black XL type nut (or an aged one).

Has anyone done something similar? And if so, which exact Tusq nut did you get for this mod? I'd really appreciate a part number for the Tusq as they have dozens of versions.

I have measured the present nut and found it around 43mm length, 8-9mm height, 6mm width and a string spacing of around 36mm. can't find exact replica on Tusq wesbite. Please help. Thanks!

[cynic]

You might check with @ammscray. He can make the imports better than the USA models. 

[JGravelin]

Using the measurements you provided I found this on their website: https://graphtech.com/collections/tusq-nuts-guitar/products/tusq-nut-slotted-1

Very rarely is a new nut the exact perfect fit so some dimensional sanding (a little off the bottom or fret-facing edge) may be required. You'll also need to do some minor filing on the nut slots to suit as well. If you can do this work yourself, great! If not, it's absolutely worth paying a professional to do the job so you can get back to the business of making music and enjoying your cool guitar. Good luck!

 

[gtrdaddy]

^^^this^^^

If you choose to endeavor on your own, get a nut with proper string spacing (or as close as you can get), and I would highly recommend using the anvil of a vise if you have one, as a sanding surface. Place the sandpaper on it and sand the bottom of the nut by moving the nut across the anvil while pressing firmly. Adhesive sandpaper would be a benefit here. Then if you need to take off some of the sides you can turn them on the anvil as well. To polish the rough edges and sides use a 800 grit and then buff with Maguires Machine Glaze #3. 

Take your time and when sanding and filing; check frequently and do just a little bit at a time. It’s easy to sand and file down, but if you go to far it’s kinda hard to undo it. 

Also, when you glue it in, dilute your glue a bit with some water and apply with a q-tip. This will hold the nut in place fine, but if you need to replace it, you’ll not need to worry about tearing wood out of the neck with the nut.

[VectorGuy]

18 hours ago, cynic said:

You might check with @ammscray. He can make the imports better than the USA models. 

Thanks Cynic and all the others for their valuable feedback and suggestions. 🙂 This is why I love this club.

 

Hi @ammscray - got a stunning Vector XT and a Monaco XT that i'm looking to upgrade the nuts on as the notes seem to die off quicker without much sustain these days.  In your experience, any close-enough (in size) TUSQ nut works for these two? Sanding one down to a proper size shouldn't be a problem.

 

As an aside, I'm looking to pimp out the Vector with full gold hardware. 😛 Any suggestions for the tuneomatic bridge? Does the Vector have what's known as an ABR-1 type bridge? Or is it ABR-2 or something?  I'm so lost online when I search for this relevant and specific info. Sigh.

[velorush]

5 hours ago, VectorGuy said:

As an aside, I'm looking to pimp out the Vector with full gold hardware. 😛 Any suggestions for the tuneomatic bridge? Does the Vector have what's known as an ABR-1 type bridge? Or is it ABR-2 or something?  I'm so lost online when I search for this relevant and specific info. Sigh.

I would guess Nashville rather than ABR.  Here is a description of the two and their differences.

[gorch]

I have done this on my MIK Standard years ago. It had not been a 100% match either. If I remember correctly, I had chosen the next one up. Which was the closest match.

 However, the Tusq nur are great. There were no tuning issues since then.

[murkat]

I could be wrong since I have not have had a recent import in my hands for a bit, your may need a wider cut nut, some parts places refer the cut as a "martin" size cut.

Also, look into metric, import size for bridges. get those calipers out. Most manufacturers have detailed info on install, sizes, etc.

[JGravelin]

@ Murkat, he did provide his own measurments and that was as close as I found with the tusq stuff: 6mm width. Here's another less expensive alternative that suits the OPs measurements: https://www.guitarfetish.com/Gibson-Style-Nut-Black-Lo-Friction-Polycarbonate-Pre-slotted-43mm_p_1479.html

Regardless, it's never an exact fit with after-market parts and there's always going to be some work involved.  Nut blanks are available tho and with some focus and gumption, it's not difficult to do it exactly right. If there's a local luthier that does good work that you trust more than yourself, it's worth it to pay for a pro job.

[VectorGuy]

On 10/13/2020 at 6:42 PM, velorush said:

I would guess Nashville rather than ABR.  Here is a description of the two and their differences.

Thank you @velorush for putting me on the right track - indeed, have a Nashville style TOM bridge currently. Will be getting something similar or I'm also thinking of a roller bridge (simply because I live in the mountains and nowhere close to a luthier who could file the new bridge). 

What are your thoughts on a roller bridge on a string-thru like the Vector? I assume i don't need to file this bridge? There's lots of talk about losing sustain with a roller bridge - is this true?  

[velorush]

3 hours ago, VectorGuy said:

Thank you @velorush for putting me on the right track - indeed, have a Nashville style TOM bridge currently. Will be getting something similar or I'm also thinking of a roller bridge (simply because I live in the mountains and nowhere close to a luthier who could file the new bridge). 

What are your thoughts on a roller bridge on a string-thru like the Vector? I assume i don't need to file this bridge? There's lots of talk about losing sustain with a roller bridge - is this true?  

I am no luthier and certainly no expert on Vectors (or anything V-shaped), but unless you're going all Lonnie Mack:

why would you want a roller bridge?  Lonnie Mack didn't even have a roller bridge.  

If you need / want to upgrade the bridge, you might look to Callaham or Faber - great stuff there, but I'm guessing the stock bridge is likely fine unless it, too, is causing tuning issues.

Sometimes it is helpful to step back from a project and reassess the original intent.  Your initial post was about tuning issues at the nut.  Why not replace the nut, then play it for a while and see if that fix was sufficient?  Just a thought.  The nature of our avocation (or sometimes, vocation) makes it very tempting to throw money at phantom issues. 🧐