Water slide decals

[Turdus]

Got a '62 reissue P bass. With a 1.75" width at the nut, it's almost unplayable. I'd thought about selling it and trying to find a 70's pbass with a 1.5" jazz like neck. But, I had no idea that 70's p basses are upwards of 2 grand...and even more. that's insane.

Now, I'm looking at changing out the neck on mine. The Ebay Fender parts guy is $400 plus. I've spotted a Warmoth, and a Mitey Mite for about $125. Don't know if these necks are any good, but the nut width is right.

If I go this route, I want to apply a decal. In doing so, do I need to apply a coat of lacquer over the decal to keep it from lifting?

Tips would be appreciated.

Danke.

[Jamie K]

Got a '62 reissue P bass. With a 1.75" width at the nut, it's almost unplayable. I'd thought about selling it and trying to find a 70's pbass with a 1.5" jazz like neck. But, I had no idea that 70's p basses are upwards of 2 grand...and even more. that's insane.

Now, I'm looking at changing out the neck on mine. The Ebay Fender parts guy is $400 plus. I've spotted a Warmoth, and a Mitey Mite for about $125. Don't know if these necks are any good, but the nut width is right.

If I go this route, I want to apply a decal. In doing so, do I need to apply a coat of lacquer over the decal to keep it from lifting?

Tips would be appreciated.

Danke.

The instructions that came with my Fender telecaster waterslide decals say you can just apply and be done (I think they call this the "vintage" application method) or you can go through the whole process of sealing (I believe several coats are involved...not sure). Being both lazy and unskilled, I just floated it on and let it dry. A year later, there's no sign of it coming off. It looks respectable...at certain angles you can see the edge of the decal, but it doesn't bother me. If you go the easy route, be meticulous in trimming the decal (it comes on a rectangular sheet and has lots of excess border)...no pointy corners or any other messiness, just a smooth continuous cut fairly close to the logo itself and I doubt any non-corksniffer will even notice.

[Hamer Bass Head]

go to a decent hobby shop, and ask for the decal solvent stuff...I think solvaset may be the brand name; it makes the dacals much less obvious, and if it was me, I'd clear coat the headstock afterwards.

[Armitage]

The problem with coating over decals is sometimes the clear coat dissolves the ink in the decal, and sometimes the clear coat can react with the guitars finish underneath. I have one of the few Deans that they clear coated over Dean Z's signature and the finish has started to pull up around the edges. The finish on top is shrinking at a different rate then the one below.

Maybe ask BCRGreg, he's a finishing expert!

[DaveL]

I recently had some. Of the newer mighty mite stuff... it wasn't horrendous. I just thought it looked cheap....

[BadgerDave]

Warmoth necks are almost always finished with polyurethane. It's easy to shoot a few coats of Minwax clear poly over the decal and smooth it out with micro mesh and buffing compound. Or don't bother. I've done both with good results. I like to leave the decal unfinished on older, worn or reliced headstocks.

I think I have a P bass decal I'd be happy to PIF if you need it.

[cmatthes]

Chris - let me know if you get one that needs a quick hit of nitro over the decal. I've done that a time or two, and have some Re-Ranch spray nitro around that would save you having to buy a whole can for just that.

[Jem]

If you do clear it remember to start with a couple of very light 'dust' coats, if you hit it heavy first off it can cause the transfer to wrinkle.

[Jimbilly]

I sold two of my '70s Ps last year (both bursts with maple necks, both nice, both heavy). The '79 went for about $1200 in the end, and the '76 went for about $1800. I think a lot of places ask for a lot more than they actually sell for, although the early '70s models go for a lot more than the late '70s models like I had.

I think I'd go with the Warmoth, pm Pesocaster and he'll steer you in the right direction.

[Turdus]

Thanks all for the input. New Year's day, an unexpected Craigslist buy, in the form of a Music Man Stingray, occurred at a price too cheap to pass up.

So now I must put more thought in my decision. I will never gig a P bass... I am the only guy on the face of the planet that can not make one sound good live.

I may keep mine, for recording, etc. Unsure at this point. If the right neck falls in my lap, then the decal idea will be back on.

[serial]

Thanks all for the input. New Year's day, an unexpected Craigslist buy, in the form of a Music Man Stingray, occurred at a price too cheap to pass up.

So now I must put more thought in my decision. I will never gig a P bass... I am the only guy on the face of the planet that can not make one sound good live.

I may keep mine, for recording, etc. Unsure at this point. If the right neck falls in my lap, then the decal idea will be back on.

What color is your P-Bass? If Warmoth doesn't do what you need (which I doubt-they do pretty much everything)-check Musikraft. Their stuff is fantastic too.

[Turdus]

Serial - mine is black, which they stopped making a few years ago.

So last night, I went to check out a bass head from a local guy I'd never met.

He pulls out a 57/62 reissue P bass body (fiesta red) with a Jazz Bass neck on it. He'd even applied the correct P bass logo.

The neck was an actual Fender replacement neck. He removed the Jazz Bass logo and applied the P logo.

He won't sell the bass, but this is definitely the winning combination. So the hunt may be back on.