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First rattle-can paint job on my first project build.


Toadroller

Question

Posted

Over the past two years, in fits and starts, I've been building a neck-through flying v for my eleven year old Henry. He's a Hamer fan and also considers himself an engineer. His tag? The "Hengineer." He calls this project the Hamy V.

It will be a single bridge-humbuckered, wrap-tailed, 24" scaled fire-breathing sapphire blue dragon with black hardware and a quilty lacewood top when done. We've done everything ourselves except the fretboard, which I bought from Stewmac.

Over the last few weeks, we turned our soon-to-be-renovated living room into a paint booth and have been patiently learning the lessons of how to get a decent looking paint job. Over the weekend we did the final wet-sanding and buffed it out today. Every wipe of the polish rag was more exciting than the previous. Here are some pics of the results. I've detailed portions of the process on my blog: http://toadroller.bl...hires-blue.html

After two years, it's a great feeling to have this first (lesson teaching!) guitar approach completion.

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Pre-buffing.

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So that crack is apparently what Bondo is for. Live and learn.

P2260195.jpg

The color and the sparkle, especially in the neck, blew me away.

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I'm not the greatest luthier, but this guitar will be 100% love and 110% rock.

14 answers to this question

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Posted

Looks HOT, Toad! NIce job and GREAT lesson to impart on your boy. Wish my pops had shared my interest in refinishing guitars. Heres' a couple I've painted:

DSCF0985-1.jpg

DSCF1097.jpg

DSCF0641.jpg

DSCF0643.jpg

Posted

Ooh, diabs- this one stands out!

That's an Ibby, no?

Looks HOT, Toad! NIce job and GREAT lesson to impart on your boy. Wish my pops had shared my interest in refinishing guitars. Heres' a couple I've painted:

DSCF0641.jpg

Posted

Love it, nice blue sparkle you got going on there. Very cool father/son project. I've got few more years before my boy's old enough, but it will come soon enough.

Diablo, love the iceman, killer finish.

Posted

Looks HOT, Toad! NIce job and GREAT lesson to impart on your boy. Wish my pops had shared my interest in refinishing guitars. Heres' a couple I've painted:

DSCF0985-1.jpg

DSCF1097.jpg

DSCF0641.jpg

DSCF0643.jpg

Great Work there all stunning.

Posted

Toads- It is an Ibby, indeed! It was my first rattle can paint project and D'oh! I had to pick a git with binding to tackle - :blink: I sold it over a year ago or so. Despite loving the shape, the paint design and the hardware, just couldn't bond with that damned thing. Guess I shoulda played it for a while before deciding to refin- :lol:

Ooh, diabs- this one stands out!

That's an Ibby, no?

Looks HOT, Toad! NIce job and GREAT lesson to impart on your boy. Wish my pops had shared my interest in refinishing guitars. Heres' a couple I've painted:

Posted

Thanks, Murkat!

A question for you... what do you recommend as a grain filler for an open-grained veneer that will simply be clear-coated. I'm looking for a smooth, glass-like finish.

My research has pointed me towards everything from epoxies to miro balloons stuff to liquid crazy glue (ac glue?). It can't be as confusing as all that.

Posted

depends on the type of wood, veneer and finish type used.

With Maple, not much needed. Fills fast. Level out with W/D's and naptha.

Mahoganys, depends on the finish product. Plenty of DIY's products at Ace Hardware stores

that do a good, great job, even when cutting corners due to lack of specific tools, etc.

J

Posted

Thanks, Murkat!

A question for you... what do you recommend as a grain filler for an open-grained veneer that will simply be clear-coated. I'm looking for a smooth, glass-like finish.

My research has pointed me towards everything from epoxies to miro balloons stuff to liquid crazy glue (ac glue?). It can't be as confusing as all that.

WTF is an open grained veneer? Veneers should be made of hard, non-porous woods... Alder or mahogany veneer? You only find that in plywood guitars... yikes! I've seen walnut veneer in furniture but not guitars... ya never know though.

If you want to seal the grain/fix chips, divots or voids, get some Timbermate from Woodcraft. It's the best wood filler in the world, you can thin it for a glass smooth grain filler or use it to fill the most stubborn problems.

Trust me on the Timbermate.

Posted

Zen,

It's officially Sapele Pommele veneer. Nifty quilted/almost water-drops figure to it. Here it is on a test scrap of maple. you can see the mahogany like grain to it.

Thanks to the pointer to Timbermate- I'll check it out.

P2270202.jpg

Posted

Zen,

It's officially Sapele Pommele veneer. Nifty quilted/almost water-drops figure to it. Here it is on a test scrap of maple. you can see the mahogany like grain to it.

Thanks to the pointer to Timbermate- I'll check it out.

P2270202.jpg

Oooooh, that Sapele Pommele has some really great figuring! Nice choice of exotic wood Toadroller! Be careful with splitting... Sapele splits like a mofo.

Strong like oak yet porous like mahogany... can be quite figured (like yours is) and displays a strong ribbon figuring (most ribbon mahogany today is Sapele).

A most useful mahogany alternative that is really not an alternative because Sapele has such unique qualities.

Easily one of the "hot" newer African mahogany species... it is VERY stable and isn't prone to twisting and warping like many other mahogany alternatives and is really resistant to rot.

Quilted mahogany... who knew?

Again, AWESOME choice TR!

Posted

Excellent looking spray can job.

What processes did you go though underneath the paint? Sand grits? Fillers? How to keep dust bunnies out of your spray job?

morningstar

Posted

Oooooh, that Sapele Pommele has some really great figuring! Nice choice of exotic wood Toadroller! Be careful with splitting... Sapele splits like a mofo.

Many thanks. And I got a fair amount of it so... future projects...

Posted

Excellent looking spray can job.

What processes did you go though underneath the paint? Sand grits? Fillers? How to keep dust bunnies out of your spray job?

morningstar

I captured some of the process on my blog, here: http://toadroller.blogspot.com , but specific to your questions:

All paints (primer, paint, clear-coat) were auto-parts store sourced Dupli-Color brand. The Henman picked the color. The guys behind the counter were pretty excited about painting a guitar project and started chatting about their guitars. :) We're everywhere, aren't we?

Under the paint is maple. Sanded 220, 320, 400. Used cloths and microfibers, tack cloth and rubbing alcohol to clear the dust from it.

Many light coats of sealer/primer. Sanded with 320, 400.

No fillers, and it shows. Next time, fillers and more sanding until smooth and solid.

4 coats (1 can) of color. dry sanded 400, 1000.

4 more coats of color, followed by 4 more of the clear.

Dust bunnies were minimized by putting up a paint booth in our "soon to be renovated" mold room living room. That room is another story. Kudos to Mrs. Toadroller who lets me paint guitars in the living room. Most guys don't get to do that. Well, outside of Maine, anyway. :mellow:

Waited a week, until it didn't smell like paint anymore, then onto the wetsanding and buffing process.

What I learned:

  • To finish smooth, start smooth. I knew this, but now I know this.
  • Fillers are important.
  • The clearcoat is a protective layer over the color coat. You wetsand the clear coat to a dull but smooth finish.
  • Buffing is exactly the same as detailing your car on a long summer afternoon. As rewarding and as much a labor of love.
  • I can do this.
  • I will probably attempt to do this again.

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