Best way to remove the threaded inserts on a wraptail?

[sixesandsevens]

I got a new bridge for mine but the new one won't fit on the old posts. The new posts have a different thread too, so it seems like I've got to try pulling the inserts and installing the ones from the new bridge.

What's the best way to do this? What are the gotchas in the process?

I found this tip online:

..., but figured I'd better double check with the experts first.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Replaced forum link with YouTube demo.

[Hbom]

I'm no expert but;

I use this same method as the video, but use a deep well socket instead of the plastic tube.

I've also used a solder iron to heat the insert a bit to break it free of any glues that might be used (shouldn't be a case with a Hamer guitar)

I've seen where people drop something in the bottom of the insert hole and just run a bolt against that. But I've never tried that approach.

[PaGator]

I use this, works great but a little pricey:

I put painters tape on the guitar body to protect it from the puller

[veatch]

Sounds like you got the wrong tailpiece. Metric vs. Standard or whatever.

If you really want to replace them, the stew Mac tool does work well, but see if you can borrow instead of buy. That's a lot for one job. Also, score the paint with an exacto knife around the stud before pulling. If paint is over the stud, you might be left with a nasty chip. The painters tape is another good idea.

ETA - what I did in the past was cut a circle of 1 inch neoprene rubber it and drilled a hole into the middle of it. Then used a bolt a washer to crank it down / pull it out. Worked well, but I was nervous not being able to see what was happening under the rubber "lift"...

ETA x2 - if you want me to cut a rubber lift for ya, let me know. I have I little bit of this 1 inch stuff left.

[crunchee]

I use this, works great but a little pricey:

I put painters tape on the guitar body to protect it from the puller

Not complicated, and not cheap. I wonder if this "Schatten" person (whoever he/she is) gets a royalty from Stew-Mac for each one sold?

[Armitage]

If you're changing metric for imperial or visa versa the center to center may be different.

[murkat]

I use this, works great but a little pricey:

I put painters tape on the guitar body to protect it from the puller

Not complicated, and not cheap. I wonder if this "Schatten" person (whoever he/she is) gets a royalty from Stew-Mac for each one sold?

nope. it is another tool he stole from us formers at GCS. I have the original.

[sixesandsevens]

Thanks all. What threw me off is that the new bridge is an updated Wilkinson too (aluminum plus it's got grooves like the PRS wraptails), so I figured it'd be a fit without new posts.

The specs say the new bridge is 82mm spacing. Anyone know off the top of their heads what the post spacing is for the wraptail studios?

[Ting Ho Dung]

Thanks all. What threw me off is that the new bridge is an updated Wilkinson too (aluminum plus it's got grooves like the PRS wraptails), so I figured it'd be a fit without new posts.

The specs say the new bridge is 82mm spacing. Anyone know off the top of their heads what the post spacing is for the wraptail studios?

Rough measurement on mine is 3 1/4 center to center so within a mm.

ETA 82 mm converts to 3.228 and 83 mm converts to 3.267 so rounded is 3.23 and 3.27 vs 3.25

[veatch]

Thanks all. What threw me off is that the new bridge is an updated Wilkinson too (aluminum plus it's got grooves like the PRS wraptails), so I figured it'd be a fit without new posts.

The specs say the new bridge is 82mm spacing. Anyone know off the top of their heads what the post spacing is for the wraptail studios?

Most bridges out today are made in two model - Metric and Imperial (TonePros calls it "Standard", i think...)

Can you return the bridge for the other type? The correct tailpiece should just drop in, like you would expect.

Note - i have made some swaps in the past that fit, but the angle was wrong, and i could not intonate the guitar correctly. There are at least three different angles i have seen for the posts, so there are likely more. I had a cool MojoAxe wraptail that i was going to put on a Dean Elite, and it wouldn't work - couldn't adjust it far enough to intonate it correctly. Likewise with the Faber. Didn't work. I ended up with a TonePros intonatable. That worked.

The Hamer should be easier. I think they went with a standard angle used by Gibson, etc.