Need someone to take a look at my crack...lol!

[kurtsstuff]

All seems stable and nothing spreads open or anything, no tuning issues etc....but..what's the opinion on these cracks coming off from the nut of this studio I have here. I'm thinking it's the finish only but    who knows??

Edited November 7, 2022 by kurtsstuff
spelling

[Dutchman]

That sure looks like a whack Crack. Hamers necks are tough. If it's not causing issues just forget about it. Possibly use some CA fill and finish sand buff and gone... 

[crunchee]

To me, that looks like more than just 'finish only' cracks.  Regardless of whether the guitar's playable now or not, parallel structural cracks on both sides of the neck are gonna need fixin' at some point.

Edited November 7, 2022 by crunchee

[Steve Haynie]

Just use a couple of these and don't look back. 

[hamerhead]

....said Brent.

[Dutchman]

I guess I need to explain better. Force glue into the Crack.  Thinner glue the better to get as deep as possible. Clamp for 24hrs. Then  finish as needed. I can't see breaking the neck to repair. Forcing the Crack wider to glue fill is ok tho. Now this would be MY approach to stabilizing the neck and some of the new CA stuff is clear as glass. Hides cracks wonderfully!

[JGale]

No one should force the crack to accept anything it doesn't consent to!

[crunchee]

Jeff R and Murkat would know what to do, and they're as close as your nearest computer.

[Jeff R]

"no tuning issues" is a great litmus test for lack of severity and relatively easy remedy. Even if it's deeper than finish (it appears to be from the photos), snaps of that nature are a fast fix in an experienced tech's hands, meaning it's a relatively cheap fix too.

Send it to an experienced tech if you want a structural repair and a clearcoat fix that is somewhere between invisible and very close to invisible.

If you only want a structural fix, however, and are not concerned with pro clearcoat fix too ...

Smear distilled water in the crack with your finger, then use the same wet finger to smear red label original Titebond into the wound. The water will help wick the glue deeper into the wood, but not so deep that it gets into the truss rod cavity. DO NOT flood the wound with glue, the truss rod canal doesn't need glue in it too. Each side's crack's surface area you are trying to bond is roughly about the same size as the flat area on a one-inch piece of a popsicle stick. Imagine what it would take to glue two of those popsicle stick pieces together. That's about how much glue you want in there.

Finger-apply the water, then the glue, then a clamp between the nut and F1. Use a couple squares of cardboard as the padding between the clamp heads, a couple squares on the fingerboard and a couple squares on the back of the neck. The cardboard will help it grip on the backside.

Squeeze the clamp good and tight. Don't worry about alignment, a wound of that nature and size aligns itself.  If you get glue squeeze-out, you used enough glue in the wound. Wipe away the squeeze out with a wet rag, let sit overnight.

Wipe the area clean with a wet rag the next morning. The wet rag will take off the filmy Titebond residue without messing up your structural fix.

I'll say it again, send it to a tech if you want pro cosmetic results, or if you don't feel confident in the DIY I outlined above. Don't glue up and then decide for whatever reason to send it to a tech for Round 2. Techs detest the extra work created by someone else's glues and glue-ups (they typically F it up and THEN the tech get it), and the end bill reflects the extra work.

Edited November 8, 2022 by Jeff R