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Jeff R

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Jeff R last won the day on January 29

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About Jeff R

  • Birthday 04/17/1968

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  • Website URL
    http://www.thefretshack.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
  • Interests
    The Fret Shack; Carondelet Guitar and Bass Pickups

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  1. I don't personally, but impeccable timing ... this recent bench fabrication for a client around a modern Charvel body is just a gold hardware conversion away from fitting that description perfectly.
  2. I've verified my Vernon since Book I, so I'm a shoe-in for inclusion in Book II. And ASAP, because the violet bands fade into more orangey orange with each passing year.
  3. You very well may be, it's a HFCer's and he told me he got it from an HFC'er. Hint as to its owner ... our next project is his famous "Gatorburst" Standard, which will soon have a totally tricked-out set of custom Carondelet humbuckers
  4. This one makes me want a Cali of my own again. Hubba hubba.
  5. FIRST ... don't discount environmental contributors to noise. Old houses with antiquated or poor grounding, florescent lighting, computer monitors, cell phones on top of amps or in pockets, neon wall signs, dimmer switches on walls, all can all create noise problems. If you haven't modified the guitar's cavity, or if you can't readily find the problem in visual inspection, test the guitar in other rooms, a friend's house, your local guitar shop, before you start disassembling the guitar. There is always one direction you can face with single coils that will eliminate, or at least minimize, 60-cycle hum. Put your guitar on a strap, find that quiet direction in which to point yourself and the guitar as you check your work. You don't want to confuse normal P-90 60-cycle noise with wiring issue noise. Also, no pedalboards, no effects, no wireless units, no using computers and/or plug-in software amp sims to diagnose and/or fix the issue. Use only the guitar, a good cable and a real guitar amp even if it's a small practice amp. P-90s are typically two-conductor leads ... one connected to the coil start and another to the coil finish. Ground (coil start) goes to a pot back. Hot (coil finish) goes to a switch or a pot lug depending on the circuit. Because two-conductor pickups are simply a coil start and a coil finish, leads can be inverted and the pickup and the circuit still function. But that can create noise, especially if you touch pickup(s) poles. If your P-90s have metal braided shield leads, the braid itself is the ground (goes to pot back), the internal cloth-shielded wire is hot (goes to switch lug or pot lug. Make sure all pots, switch, jack, and lead from bridge are included the ground chain. Pot backsides should be connected in a simple A to B to C etc. series. Don't make a complete circle, or an enclosed triangle, or a starfish or random geometric art, or anything else overkill that might create a counterproductive loop in the circuit. Switch, jack and the wire from the TOM/ST/bridge should be connected to the pot back circuit. I try to put them all on the same pot back to again eliminate any funky looping. Make sure you have good solder joints. One cold solder joint to a pot back can maim what you're trying to do. Pain in the butt, but sometimes the ground wire to the TOM or the ST comes loose internally ... and the bushing where it typically sits has to be pulled, the wire re-run and the bushing re-installed.
  6. Vonnie and I are still in disbelief. Our prayers and love out to Chris and Siobhan. And Uncle Serial.
  7. I've had the MojoAxe aluminum wraptail with the subtle intonation ridge on my '55 Junior since I restored it seven or so years ago and it's performed wonderfully.
  8. I've had a couple over the years. Excellent instruments tonally and playability-wise. Just be sure to ask about the weight if you are picky about that. Not that I'm OCD about it, more so that G&L's weights are all over the place, particularly in recent years and especially their ash. Some feel like feathers, some like they are made of granite.
  9. I'll say it again, the Tron sim alone is worth the price of admission. It is absolutely righteous. Even when I quick change to humbuckers or singles, guitars or basses, just a quick one-second tweak of the input knob, and it's like the pedal both finds the instrument and optimizes itself for the signal. Perfect for set-and-forget guys like myself. The Spectrum has six readily available modes, in two banks of three presets accessed by the mini toggle. I don't even go into the second bank, because the ones I like the most are in the first bank ... the Tron and what they call "Thrust," which adds a low octave to a filter with a more subtle and quite tasty Q factor. I'll add too it's quite polyphonic, or whatever the word is for when a pedal can interpret chords and affect the individual notes, without splatting or blarting or farting. The Tron sim has replaced my Teese RMC and the tone sucking T-Wah. And ... the "thrust" sim does what I used my TC Electronic Sub 'n' Up and my Voodoo Lab Proctavia to do. This little purple box is a jewel for what you want, Geoff. Buy one on Amazon or a box store so you have a return policy, but I'd be absolutely shocked if you returned it.
  10. I gave the Grateful Dead two good shots when I was in college, one weekend sober and one weekend high, and they did pretty much nothing for me either time. So my only exposure to how JG uses a filter is in YouTube demos I saw while researching. I use a filter to sound like a wah playing single notes. As for chording, on-the-one soul and funk like Parliament/Funkadelic, The Meters, Stevie Wonder, James Brown.
  11. I did a board search and I can't find if anyone has ever mentioned this pedal, so here goes. Some of you will recall I shattered my left heel falling off a ladder two years ago. It was surgically rebuilt via a sprocket-like plate and I think 13 screws, and quite successful in that I can walk on it, stand up for extended periods, everything I'd need for a productive life and livelihood in my shop. One thing that it appears I have lost, however, is my ability to work a wah pedal effectively. The repaired foot is not the treadle foot but the balance foot, and every time I go to work a wah I'm so unstable I focus more on not falling down versus working the wah. And I can't switch feet because the repaired foot lost some of its "hinge" and is now arthritic to boot. For the past six months (on and off), I've been researching good envelope filters that could pull off a sweet auto-wah. My treadle wah in recent years has been a Teese RMC of some sort, so any auto pedal truly has a high water mark to surpass tonally. I had a old old MXR Envelope Filter years ago that I loved to use as an auto-wah and foolishly sold, but they are much more expensive today. I had a E/H Q-Tron in more recent years that never sync'ed with my hands and attack right like the old MXR. I had an old Boss T-Wah that sync'ed well but it was not true bypass and it killed pure high end signal. After watching a ton of vids, testing a few things, even buying something and returning it, I bought the one that repeatedly came up with totally glowing reviews (what a concept). And I see why, this pedal is truly awesome. The Mu-Tron setting alone is worth the price of admission - it's so good I've barely even tweaked the other modes (which include a Lovetone Meatball), let alone all the things you can do if you USB it to an internet connection for file sharing and stuff. It has octavers, distortions and fuzzes, modulations all hidden inside. Every guitar and bass client visiting the shop since I got it a few weeks ago, who I deemed a target candidate, played it and gave it an absolutely flying colors review. Not only did it sound great and work with everyone's right hand attack and everyone's instruments with just a quick tweak of the "input" knob, it worked equally well for guitars and basses! And I'm wah'ing again, among other new things. I highly, highly recommend this pedal.
  12. Depends on a player's definition of low action. Standard Fullerton factory 50s and 60s setup action specs was no less than a 4/64" gap between the 12th fret and the bottom of the unfretted high E string, the gap tapering slightly more each string, to no less than 6/64" gap for the low E at F12. Those measurements are taken after the neck is dialed into ideal relief, and they assume the neck received a proper fret leveling. I dial in most modern flatter radii fingerboards with solid fretwork at 3/64 for the high E unfretted at F12 to 4/64 on the low E without problems. Lower than that can be done in some cases, but is too low for most players, because it is too difficult to bend. Even with jumbos, the flats of the fingertips don't have the clearance to get "under" the string to grip it for the bend, if that makes sense. With the vintage measurements I outlined above, a 7.25 won't fret out into the fretboard arc unless you do some serious full-step-plus-more bending. Be aware (and for a familiar comparison) ... the action I described for pre- and CBS-era Fender is similar to Nazareth factory action in modern times for a modern Martin acoustic. The Martin radius is not 7.25, it's flatter, but the strings are at that height to eliminate string buzz under a reasonably firm strumming hand. The takeaway, without trying anything, is if you don't like the action on most acoustics, you probably won't like where you have to dial action on a 7.25 to accommodate aggressive bends. It also wouldn't hurt to use a ruler that breaks inches down to 64ths to dial in one of your guitars to the action I outlined above. You won't feel the 7.25 curve, but you'll be able to feel how high/low the action is relative to the fingerboard for your tastes. And if that action is a deal maker, a dealbreaker, something you can learn to love, whatever.
  13. Here's my blast from the past. First snaps are 2005 and 2006, third is two weeks ago. Damn I've been around here a long time.
  14. OEM or Mom-n-Pop Ace, a "match" requires knowing the thread size of the screw in question. Knocking hard cobwebs off my now-sober memory, I kinda remember direct mount Hamer pickups did not use the screw size you typically see to mount Fender single coils to a pickguard, Hamer's screw was smaller in diameter; or humbuckers to a ring for that matter, Hamer's direct mount screw was larger. But I can't recall working on a Centaura in over 10 years and my memory so I may be fullashit. I use these to determine thread counts. YMMV as to if this is worth investing $66 for OEM's sake. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-measuring/thread-detective-for-guitars/
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