stobro

I'm pretty sure that's the wiring in my Billy Corgan Strat. I had a Fralin loaded pickguard assembly put in. The original Dimarzio strat-size humbuckers just weren't Stratty enough for my taste. The Fralin split-blade pickups still sound like a Strat, but without noise.

The band I was in way back when covered "School". We didn't have a harmonica, so the keyboard player did some riffing on his synth to approximate it. It went over well, as I recall. The bass line was kinda fun to play.

At these prices, I'm tempted to buy this one and the trans white one that popped up earlier today. This one would be a companion for my indigo/pearloid T51 and the other for my trans white/tort Cruise. Unfortunately, all my money is currently tied up in a real estate venture. Building a new downsized home for my retirement is costing WAY more than I bargained for.

I bought this spruce top, trans-orange sparkle finish, ebony board SuperPro from Bubs (Buy from Bubs!) back in '09. $1300. From this angle, the first fret victory inlay is barely noticeable.

JBL, Electro-Voice, Altec-Lansing and others were primarily sound reinforcement equipment manufacturers. A lot of the speakers were for permanent installation public address systems where weight wasn't even a thought. They didn't really spend much time, effort or money voicing speakers for musical instrument amplification. JBLs were offered as "upgrades" in some amps for people who needed the loudest, cleanest sound they could get from an amp. Most people these days are looking for more modest volume with "character". Character is something to avoid at all costs when designing for sound reinforcement.

...and the agony of defeat.

I got one of these at a garage sale. It was way in the back behind all of the smaller, lighter things on tables. As I recall, I paid $175 for it.

Another transition was from dogbone handles to brown strap handles (like this one has) to black strap handles.

Fender Brown combo amps and Blond head/cab amps were from the same era, correct? I have this Tremolux 6G9-B blond/wheat rig sitting in my basement that I haven't powered up in close to 10 years. I had it apart about 5 years ago to see just how original it is. I'm pretty certain the filter caps are new-ish. If it's been sitting this long, is it safe to power it up without a clean bill of health from an amp tech? All of the pictures were right side up when I dragged them into this post, but 2 out of 3 got flipped somehow. How to fix?

Also used for the TV cartoon show:

How about: Or its inspiration:

I liked the Replacements attitude toward music videos.

I used to have the Duo, now I have the Artist.

There's another one in the can that is scheduled for release next year: Spinal Tap at Stonehenge: The Final Finale https://www.imdb.com/title/tt38773527/?ref_=nm_flmg_job_1_accord_1_unrel_cdt_t_1

Hofner also made orchestral string instruments (violins, cellos, double basses), but apparently not enough of any of them to keeps the lights on.

https://guitar.com/news/industry-news/hofner-files-for-bankruptcy/

This has been an El Nino year for me- nothing in, nothing out.

If the ground connection goes bad again, I'll try pulling the bushing. Is the ground wire typically crushed under the end of the bushing, or squeezed between the outside of the bushing and the wood?

Apparently bending the (solid core) wire to align better with the drilled hole and using needle nosed pliers to firmly push the wire into the hole was enough to make decent contact with the stud anchor. It's quiet now. If it acts up again, I'll know what to try first next time.

The disconnect is at the stud anchor. The existing ground wire is plenty long. The connection point is buried deep inside the body. Pushing the wire against the side wall of the anchor might force it to make contact, but how to make that permanent?

There is already a wire that apparently just falls short of making contact with the threaded anchor that's embedded in the body. I'm trying to figure out a way to get it connected that doesn't involve using something like a gear puller to pry the anchor out of the body. I guess another option is pulling the wire, drilling out the side of the anchor through the wire hole that's already there, then reinserting the wire with enough bare conductor to make contact without interfering with the stud threads. Both options sound tricky.

My '01 Studio has a Gotoh tailpiece.