Decking a Floyd

[LucSulla]

How the hell do you do this?  I've had a decked Charvel before and prefered it 90% of the time, but that one came to me like that. 

I've tried decking one of my current guitars, but I keep running into the problem of string geometry - essentially, I have to lower the FR posts to get it sit right, but when I do, the sting catch the end of the neck and fret out.  

Advice.  I know I can block or similar, but I like the stability of it just resting on the body. 

[Jeff R]

Assuming the Floyd is non-recessed, you need to "flatten" the degree/pitch of the neck as it pertains to the body. Factory shims usually create that pitch if the pocket was cut perfectly horizontal. Remove any shim put in the pocket at the factory and see if that lowers the bridge flush where you want it. If there are no shims to remove, you may need to shim the opposite side of the neck pocket to get the neck and bridge where you want it.

[tbonesullivan]

Looking at my Hamer Diablos, I'm not sure they could ever be decked without seriously shimming the outer end of the Neck Pocket.

[LucSulla]

I may have to be satisfied with a trem-block I guess.  I just need to one set to dive only so I can put a D-tuna on it. 

[Jeff R]

Here's a tip for you too ... my hidden weapon when I block a Floyd for dive only is rosewood. Watch what it adds for resonance, low-mid growl and throat, and overall snap/recoil under your hands. An acoustic blank should be very close to what you need thickness wise. Cut it down length-wise with a hand saw. To find tune its thickness, use coarse adhesive sandpaper on a tabletop. These are what I use.

https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Acoustic_Guitar_Parts/Acoustic_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Flattop_Guitar_Bridge_Blank.html

[tbonesullivan]

How do you get the block to stay in place? double sided tape?

[Jeff R]

Dabdot of Titebond Original, or any decent general wood glue really. Holds it in place when the trem isn't, but the block removes easily with a flat head screwdriver and a gentle whack with a small hammer should you wish to make it go bye bye.

[Jeff R]

Found some reference photos ... blocking a custom tele build's Gotoh Floyd-license ...

Guesstimating my needed thickness...

Fine tuning thickness, held loosely with one spring

Dabdot of glue and slightly tightened claw. After I tapped the block into that exact position with a small screwdriver and a mallet, I put on the two missing springs and tightened the tension up just enough so that the bridge wouldn't pitch forward on a fingerboard bend unless the bend was more than a full step.

The view from the top/side

[texwest]

I did this to a non-deckable (is that a word?) G&L vibrato  once and it worked very well.  Jeff's idea of the rosewood is great.

[SSII x 2]

14 hours ago, Jeff R said:

Here's a tip for you too ... my hidden weapon when I block a Floyd for dive only is rosewood. Watch what it adds for resonance, low-mid growl and throat, and overall snap/recoil under your hands. An acoustic blank should be very close to what you need thickness wise. Cut it down length-wise with a hand saw. To find tune its thickness, use coarse adhesive sandpaper on a tabletop. These are what I use.

https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Acoustic_Guitar_Parts/Acoustic_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Flattop_Guitar_Bridge_Blank.html

Great advice!  Thanks very much!

[Armitage]

I've used blocks of nylon, brass, aluminum and even nuts stuck on with two sides tape since the late '80s. Works great.

[HAMERMAN]

On ‎7‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 10:30 PM, Jeff R said:

Dabdot of Titebond Original, or any decent general wood glue really. Holds it in place when the trem isn't, but the block removes easily with a flat head screwdriver and a gentle whack with a small hammer should you wish to make it go bye bye.

I was briefly horrified until I looked the pictures and saw where the block goes - for some reason I was imagining it up on top! :-)

[Jeff R]

Finish and clearcoat oversprays in the trem route work to your advantage as well. Makes it easy to knock that block's dabdot of glue loose if you need to. Even if finish was to come loose with the block (I've never had that happen) it won't be in a readily visible area.