JGale Posted December 10, 2021 Share Posted December 10, 2021 First off which type bridge is my Hamer 25th Anniversary? ABR or Nashville? Callaham - Steel ABM - Brass, Aluminum, Stainless Steel Tone Pros - Zinc Gotoh - Aluminum or Zinc Got a preference? TIA, Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murkat Posted December 10, 2021 Share Posted December 10, 2021 TOM (nashville) depends on what you want out of it tone wise. Schaller TOMS are benchmark, tight tolerances. Gotoh's are japan's answer to Schaller. Good stuff. Solid machining. Fancy? Faber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthes Posted December 10, 2021 Share Posted December 10, 2021 2 hours ago, murkat said: TOM (nashville) depends on what you want out of it tone wise. Schaller TOMS are benchmark, tight tolerances. Gotoh's are japan's answer to Schaller. Good stuff. Solid machining. Fancy? Faber. My Fabers have all been purchased new for less than the Schaller equivalent and/or some Gotoh stuff! They don't mess around when they have sales... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGale Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 Thank you all for your response. A semi hollow all mahogany guitar already has a "throaty" response. More bass is not welcome, nor is any more high end emphasis. That leaves Aluminium or Zinc, no? What about an aluminum bridge with a steel stoptail? Thanks again🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted December 10, 2021 Share Posted December 10, 2021 1 hour ago, JGale said: Thank you all for your response. A semi hollow all mahogany guitar already has a "throaty" response. More bass is not welcome, nor is any more high end emphasis. That leaves Aluminium or Zinc, no? What about an aluminum bridge with a steel stoptail? Thanks again🙂 34 minutes ago, gtrdaddy said: Not having played the guitar I would recommend aluminum bridge with a zinc stoptail to avoid too much brightness. Listen to this man. He knows of which he speaks… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGale Posted December 30, 2021 Author Share Posted December 30, 2021 Okayly Dokaly Going with Faber. Has anyone done the "pop out the posts in the body and softly pound in the replacements" route or just the replace the parts not embedded in the guitar? Video says itseasyanyonecandoit. EZ kit: https://faberusa.com/product/5004-master-kit-ez-gloss-nickel/ Do it herself Luthier kit: https://faberusa.com/product/5008-master-kit-plus-gloss-nickel/ Video: skip to 1:25m https://youtu.be/pZb91F2Je5E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthes Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Faber is also 20% off right now... https://faberusa.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGale Posted January 7, 2022 Author Share Posted January 7, 2022 Faber in the house, Faber in da Haus, High, Ho the Derrick, Faber in the house! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthes Posted January 7, 2022 Share Posted January 7, 2022 Whoo hoo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerDave Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 I'm late to the party on this, but for the benefit of others who may have the same question: The Master kit Plus version, which requires extracting the bridge post inserts and replacing with hammer-in posts is very easy to install. Faber provides everything you need, and the process takes minutes to accomplish. The result is superior to the EZ version, IMO, as it eliminates the bridge post "wobble" inherent in the OEM and Faber EZ screw-in post assemblies. The Faber EZ version is tighter than the OEM, but there is still movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGale Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 Thanks Dave. That's the version I went for. Was nervous about the pick and smash aspect but I'll take the necessary care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaVO Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 How’d it turn out? Can you tell a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliparla Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 I'm also late to the party, but I found a sound comparison between steel, brass and aluminium: https://www.halonguitarparts.com/index.php/halon-guitar-products/les-paul-parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeboy Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 I know the difference on my Special Korina Jr was HUGE when I replaced the Wilky wrap with a Faber. More present and zingy, in a good way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshoowah Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Curious how it turned out, and what to specify re: Inch v. Metric, if I order a Faber kit for my Super Pro... I'm definitely interested in the ToneLock design more than the set screw "locking" bridges, just not sure what a Hamer USA needs. I'm also thinking "Plus" rather than "EZ" if I buy Faber. Who can guide me so I select the right posts for my Nashville/Schaller replacement and for the new (aluminum) stop tail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGale Posted May 1, 2022 Author Share Posted May 1, 2022 On 4/22/2022 at 3:19 PM, joshoowah said: Curious how it turned out, and what to specify re: Inch v. Metric, if I order a Faber kit for my Super Pro... I'm definitely interested in the ToneLock design more than the set screw "locking" bridges, just not sure what a Hamer USA needs. I'm also thinking "Plus" rather than "EZ" if I buy Faber. Who can guide me so I select the right posts for my Nashville/Schaller replacement and for the new (aluminum) stop tail? It's really easy to get to Larry Corsa via email. Rather than rely on our misreading your situation, seek the horses mouth. In my case, a hog25th, I was looking to "tighten up" the response. I find 25ths (this is my second) to be a tad "loose" when you play them. Some like it, I wanted solid body snap with my moaning midrangery stuff. I got it with the Faber. I have a set of Carondelet Classic A2 PAFs in there. I get woody and articulate at the same time. How do it know? The installation is a trip, from winding a tap screw into the wood to eject the insert, to pounding your baby with a hammer, repeatedly. There's video of these things. The bridge on mine was US threaded. The stop tail was metric. WTF,H? Pull the parts and check which is which thread before you go any further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
JGale
First off which type bridge is my Hamer 25th Anniversary? ABR or Nashville?
Callaham - Steel
ABM - Brass, Aluminum, Stainless Steel
Tone Pros - Zinc
Gotoh - Aluminum or Zinc
Got a preference?
TIA,
Jim
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