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Everything posted by Menehune

  1. Godspeed getting clear of the ICU and whatever ails you, @SteveE9C6.
  2. I would greatly appreciate seeing those colors, @Stike. Nail polish is attractive for its low cost. I can experiment with thinning polish colors to make a tint, and then mixing that into clear polish.
  3. Nope. But all my amps including the EL34 monster have sufficient tone stack range to get the treble needed. And if that's not sufficient, an overdrive/distortion pedal with tone or EQ can provide whatever treble boost is needed. For years I used an MXR 10-band graphic EQ pedal to carve out punchy sonic spectra, but somewhere along the Line of Financial Necessity I sold it. That, to me, is really the best tool to shape your guitar's sonic soul, including treble boosting.
  4. And Jebus, their website doesn't illustrate the colors. WTF? I think @Jim85IROC's suggestion is best in this case: nail polish color layer, with a cover build-up of CA glue, epoxy or UV-cured poly. That lets me develop the tinting on mahogany scraps on the cheap.
  5. And I always figured they were 10-10-10-10-10-10-10-10-10.
  6. I second the choice of Mojotone pots. My '93 Studio weirdly came with all Hamer tapered pots replaced with Korean linear pots. Those smooth-turning audio-taper Mojotones made a world of difference. Also agree about the Bumblebee. Capacitance is capacitance, but if it's at hand and free, why not?
  7. The headstock chips I can live with. That body gash, though, bothers me more than I thought it would.
  8. Congrats to seller and buyer. Great guitar.
  9. Yes, those are lacquer blush spots on the headstock, not dust. They appear over the back of the body and neck, and a little bit on the sides, but interestingly not on the body top. And, as a bonus, it's also a Pizza Day guitar.
  10. A base black finish (or stain) was applied to the face of the headstock, but then a black lacquer/Urelac was applied to the face and about 1mm rounded over the face and onto the headstock sides. So in the largest chip I see half black, and half the finished red mahogany color. I took some snaps, and will upload them.
  11. RIP, Ron, and thank you. I brought the first Iron Butterfly album to my 7th grade parochial school dance. I clearly remember playing and hearing In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida - the vocals, the drumming and drum solo, the guitar and guitar solo, the song's close, all as I stood by the turntable, soaking it all in. And I remember the morning assembly room having been transformed into a dark, sweetly dangerous, exciting place with the boys clustered together and the girls clustered together and the brave and going-steady dancing across the room's Formica flooring. I pined after the petite, fair-skinned, blue-eyed blond girl, whom I see in her school uniform of white shirt, red sweater and knee-length skirt (a Tartan plaid, as I recall. We boys wore salt-and-pepper wool pants, which I hated). And I was strongly attracted to the taller blue-eyed, freckled and bobbed-haired tomboy who surely drove herself though life like a bulldozer, and whom I admired for her strong character. No recollection of what either girl wore that evening. Did I ask either one for a dance? Not that I recall, which likely means "not a chance." Stevenson said it best: "If youth only knew, and age only could."
  12. Lovely guitar, @polara. Especially admire that unique tortoiseshell binding and the burst truss rod cover. Glad it went to an HFC brother. Give it spirited spankings.
  13. Anyone? Anyone? Can anyone at least share a hint of the color tints used over the mahogany back and sides? Red and black? Red, yellow and black?
  14. FWIW, the long-shaft Switchcraft switch and tip are also Rickenbacker parts.
  15. Our faith in self, family and friends waxes and wanes. It doesn't take much life experience to learn the faith in government and politicians and bureaucrats is entirely misplaced, and so to always expect struggles in those domains. Given we're forever assailed by one thing after another, seems to me the best option is to keep up the good fight under the fluttering banner proclaiming "Non Illegitimis Carborundum Est". Not easy. Nothing is.
  16. Congrats on finding such a lovely guitar. Consider going with amber knobs - they look killer on my '93 sunburst Studio.
  17. My 1996 Studio Custom needs some finish lovin'. Besides three chips in the black face of the headstock that need fixing, there's a chunk of the red finish taken out of the upper side hip. I used a thin superglue to stabilise the cracked pieces that were still in place, but there's a spot of bare mahogany that will need a color-matched drop-fill. While I've done finish repairs to clear coats, I'd rather someone with experience do these color finish repairs. Recommendations?
  18. No. The Outer Circle threads you're intimating celebrate "appreciation of qualities". These prices are just crude pornography.
  19. The world would be a finer place with more Bootsy Collins, more James Browns, more synchronized brass sections, and more white-booted go-go-dancers.
  20. 2 black XL, please. Thanks for organizing this.
  21. @Jeff R's epoxy recommendation worked out well. And now another injury: a falling object crashed into the side of the guitar, about 4 inches below the upper waist. Some Urelac cracked off, some was crushed (including the wood underneath), other finish chips separated from the wood but are hanging on. The damage is a bit over 1 cm sq. My thought is to: Use thin CA to rebond what chips I can to the rest of the finish and to the wood. Clean off the crushed chips, wet the dented wood, and use my component-testing heat gun (very small nozzle) to lessen the dent. Either of: Tint the wood and drop-fill with clear epoxy. Tint the epoxy and drop-fill. Sound like a good general plan? Since the original finish was tinted, I'm leaning towards tinting the epoxy. That will also let me mix up some test samples on scrap mahogany to work out the closest color match, something I can't do if I tint the wood itself.
  22. I've happily used plain leather 3"+ wide straps for years.
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