BoogieMKIIA

I checked nut slot height on th Studio Custom, a Les Paul and a Tele. First method was to press at the third fret and check for a small gap at the first fret. All three guitars looked similar, very little clearance to just touching the first fret. Feeler gauge at first fret, not pressing the strings. A 0.018” feeler just went between the fret and string. Perhaps a little tight on the Les Paul, but all similar to my weak eyes. Music City Bridge nut slot gauge. All were just above 0.005” with some variation string to string and guitar to guitar. The differences are in the weeds to my ability, I’ll take the Studio to a pro to check the nut and frets. The nut is original as I can see the vintage natural tint covering where the nut meets the neck, and missing a little higher where the nut is polished. Glasses said around 0.004” is good for a Tele, perhaps you could go lower but not much - assumes I measured correctly. i still wonder how the Hamer factory set them up.

Regarding a 2002 Studio Custom specifically. I looked, couldn’t find (yet) - what is the Hamer spec for string height at the first fret? Or another measure of nut slot depth. I found a general internet AI response saying 0.010” to 0.020”, E to E. One measurement method is feeler gauges, others press at the first or third fret. Whatever way you should really do it. I found the Hamer fret wire spec, but not sure regarding profile versus a 1973 Gibson Les Paul fret. I’ll need to check what was used for the LP refret, but it is “smoother” than the Hamer, more square. Was there much variation between Hamer fret dress coming out of the factory? I’m considering having the frets lightly dressed but unsure how much difference that would make. Certainly not worth a refret just to see and the current ones have low miles. And, binding.

Local Blues legend, Tee Dee Young, plays a Parker fly. I have never seen an arch too but would love to try one.

Years ago, a friend had the top of the line Guild rosewood/spruce with all the bling. Amazing instrument in every way.

I recently got my Taylor 12 string back from a neck reset / rebolt, new strings and am really loving playing it. Do any of you enjoy playing 12 string, acoustic or electric? I got mine from eBay last second bid. The guy had it custom built and apparently only played it a few times. Was sweating that I could be getting a dog, but all as advertised. Taylor GS Custom (big), fine grained Sitka top, mahogany sides and back, ebony board and faceplate. Subtle trim items like ivroid binding and ebony trus rod cover. Some may not like the Taylor sound, I think this 12 string sounds great with the abundant highs. Plenty of lows from the big body, very responsive to strumming pressure. Plus neck resets are no too expensive.

Makes sense regarding import volumes, hope they can continue. In my opinion, anyone looking for Fender flavor guitars should have G&L on the list. Our other guitar player has an older ASAT and bass. Think early 90s. Both sound and play great and are light. I haven’t played a newer one.

The carving is just, wow!

I like the Monaco Elite Goldtop, with P90s

Where are the active devices?

I think callouses will settle in if I continue to play as much as I have been recently. They just seem to fade faster, unlike the video game callouses that @cruncheehas. I try to make the Monday acoustic jam at the local pub. This helps callouses and hand strength. Then electric practice on Tuesday, sometimes an open mic on Thursday. One or two gigs each weekend, about two per week in September! It may help if I play more at home the weeks of less or no gigs. We have been playing fewer, longer sets, sometime 3 hours with no break not to loose the crowd. I’ll look for wrist exercises I can do when at the gym. Wrist rolls with a light barbell on the curl bench and similar. Maybe one of those hand/finger exercisers. No where near ready to give up. Physically, I’m in pretty good shape or I wouldn’t be able to play long sets. Les Paul played until his 90’s. Like the Cody Johnson song, “Till You Can’t”.

I recently turned 68 and it seems developing and keeping callouses is different than in the past. Anyone else notice this? I also notice some loss of strength in the left hand, with fatigue from gigging often. Just keep going is what I'm doing but curious if others here have experienced this and what to do about it.

Same discussion about a year ago regarding my Martin’s binding. @Jeff R laid out his steps and experience if you decide to do it yourself. I don’t have the skills for a nice instrument so I took it to a pro.

Thanks for the comments. Played the Tele and pedal board all night, no issues. I'll call it fixed if there isn't a problem tonight. Though I didn't follow a method that would pinpoint the root cause, here is what was done in the order of importance per my opinion. 1. Reflowed the solder joint where the jack ground wire connects to the pot. Looked like this solid wire was turning in the solder joint. I'm guessing this is the root cause. 2. Cleaned the volume pot. There was some scratching when turning. Last thing I did before buttoning it up. 3. Cleaned the jack contact. Light sanding, alcohol swab, D5. Also tightened up to the Electrosocket jack and wire dress from Jack to pot. I've experienced intermittent cut-out from wiring and a jump in output on pot rotation in the past. How the volume faded is new to me.

Checked things out today. No fading put some scratchiness from the volume pot. Cleaned it with D5 and all seems good. If there are no problems over the weekend gigs, will see what happens with the practice amp next week. The output jack is a standard Switchcraft. Cheap and easy to replace it and the pot if I still have trouble. I’m not sure how old those parts are, not more than 5 years old. I replaced the stock Player Tele parts when I got the guitar. Another possibility is the pedal board patch cables. I make my own with Square Plugs and Mogami wire. Have replaced a few, none with fading so far. Pre-pedal board was simpler.

I didn’t spray the pot, it seems to turn normally and any volume change unrelated to turning it. Something to try if I still have the problem. Have been out of town so will try on Friday. I played. Different guitar on the amp during practice with no issues and will be playing another amp this weekend, another check. Just curious if anyone had this symptom on a guitar before. The amp was my first guess, a bad tube or something.

My Tele was fading in and out the last two practices. I first thought a pedal board cable but now think it was the guitar. Asking if what follows makes sense or if any of you have experienced this and found a fix. Once home, I plugged in a known good cable and measured open circuit. Pulled the jack and cleaned the contacts, still open circuit. Tightened up the jack to the socket. Then pulled the control plate and stretched the wires, could see PU resistance so I stuffed it all back. Then had the same problem. Taking the control plate off again, the solder joint on the volume pot where the jack wire is connected looked funny, like the wire could move in the solder joint, so I reflowed it. Put it back together and all measures well with a meter. It’s late so I won’t be able to confirm with an amp until later. Thoughts?

:A friend just sent me a link for them, Feel Like Making Love. Hadn’t heard before.

I’m waiting for the Bluegrass version

Does anyone have a Plush case, are they any good? Maybe the regular price isn't too bad. I wonder what the weight is and how well a Studio Custom fits the LP case.

Is that a Fender Mustang?

I have a Class of 75 reunion in October, a few of these can make the playlist. I recall Black Water by the Doobies was top of the list that year.

I used it as my main amp on one gig. Had a 1x12 cab but ran the line out (speaker emulation) to the board. The sound coming out the front was pretty good. Used it for backup purposes a few other times. I carry a speaker cable with a jack on one end so I can connect to the speaker of the NG amp. I suppose I should wring it out with my current pedal board so I’m ready to go if needed, or just to try it again as the main rig. 25 watts seems plenty for most places and when everything is mic’d up using in-ears. The weight reduction is very nice. I would like it better if it wasn’t so bright. I’ll try it with a Cannabis Rex and a 40/40 Tone Tubby. The other thing I tried was using it for the amplifier only with a Sarno Revelation pre amp. Just didn’t seem to fit together as well as an ART SLA2, Maybe a more powerful model would do better.

It is very bright to my ears. Higher treble settings work, just too much for me.

Had a gig last night. The other guitar player uses various old tube amps, slightly modified for guitar. The old PA amps and mono amps. Tubes were knocked and one power tube was loosing vacuum. I offered my Superblock US that I carry as a backup. He wasn’t keen at first because it is not tube, but the trip back to town was too long. Gave him a few pointers and he dialed it in, driving his 2x10 cab with Jensens. Well, he was pleasantly surprised with the tone and volume. Great pedalboard sounds and clean sounds. Power matched well with the tens. Said he was going to get one, will see if that holds. It did sound quite good. His experience matched mine as you can’t turn the treble past 9 o’clock. Has anyone used the Reverb 101 and any compare to the SBUS? You get rid of a power brick and get more power. Wondering how the tone stack compares?

Got this back in the day, no other amp or thing like it. The attenuator loses a lot of tone when very low but not when at a gig or practice with drums level. A lot of people don’t realize there are a lot of great clean tones below noon.