Hamer Metal Back Plate Buzzzzzzz

[Ting Ho Dung]

I have several hamers that seem to buzz at certain frequencies. I've found that they don't if I brace a part of my body against the metal plate. One guitar buzzes on the twelfth fret G string. It's a horrible ZZzzzzzt ZZzzzzzzt when I pluck the string. I push on the back plate and it stops. The screws are tight and I don't want to risk stripping the hole by tightening them down more. Any body else have this?

[Steve Haynie]

I have one that has a wire or pickup spring buzzing. Something learned with my basses is that if the buzz or rattle does not come through an amp just let it go.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

Shim the back plates with either thin rubber strips or ice lolly sticks. I used ice lolly sticks cut to shape at each end...

[murkat]

dampen it with tape and sponge foam material.

[Ting Ho Dung]

Shim the back plates with either thin rubber strips or ice lolly sticks. I used ice lolly sticks cut to shape at each end...

I was thinking of something like that but isn't it supposed to come in contact with the shield paint for grounding/shielding?

dampen it with tape and sponge foam material.

I was wondering if that would work.

[cmatthes]

You are correct that's why the shielding paint goes over the cavity edge and the black anodized plate is sanded to bare metal in that spot.

Shim the back plates with either thin rubber strips or ice lolly sticks. I used ice lolly sticks cut to shape at each end...

I was thinking of something like that but isn't it supposed to come in contact with the shield paint for grounding/shielding?

[Ting Ho Dung]

You are correct that's why the shielding paint goes over the cavity edge and the black anodized plate is sanded to bare metal in that spot.

Shim the back plates with either thin rubber strips or ice lolly sticks. I used ice lolly sticks cut to shape at each end...

I was thinking of something like that but isn't it supposed to come in contact with the shield paint for grounding/shielding?

Yeah, I remember seeing that now that you mention it. I thought that was a really smart idea someone came up with.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

You don't have to use an ice lolly stick = you could use thin metal shims or similar...

[hamerhead]

The sparkly kind has better tone.

[MCChris]

I've found that they don't if I brace a part of my body against the metal plate.

You're talking about your dick, aren't you?

[polara]

The Hamer is my penis.

(Anyone else here ever see Doctor Horrible's Sing-Along Blog?)

[Steve Haynie]

...and Hamer is "The Ultimate."

The groupies must love you, man.

[Ting Ho Dung]

All good ideas. Thanks

[RichRS6]

You are correct that's why the shielding paint goes over the cavity edge and the black anodized plate is sanded to bare metal in that spot.

Shim the back plates with either thin rubber strips or ice lolly sticks. I used ice lolly sticks cut to shape at each end...

I was thinking of something like that but isn't it supposed to come in contact with the shield paint for grounding/shielding?

Yeah, I remember seeing that now that you mention it. I thought that was a really smart idea someone came up with.

Not sure if this is true but I was speaking to Tim Gentle who used to be a U.K. distributor (my dot 78 burst came from him originally) who told me he suggested this to Paul on one of his trips to the U.K. to help screen out interference.

[Ting Ho Dung]

I've found that they don't if I brace a part of my body against the metal plate.

You're talking about your dick, aren't you?

Hmmm.... That might work too but may cost me on resale value.