Fender custom shop " closet" nitro finish checking

[jaberwock]

Hi, is there any one who knows how Fender custom shop do their nitro finish checking ? and is there any one on this forum who can do it ( Stike ? ) is there any particular color that it works best on, sunburst would be my first preference, with Cadillac green second.

I was thinking of using a Warmoth body, two piece, light weight swamp ash, unless anyone has any better suggestions.

I bought some parts from a 62 Strat last year, neck ,pickguard ,pots knobs, tuners and some hardware, and want to put it together with a period correct body, pickups etc to make a guitar that looks and sounds as close to it's origins as possible ( I'm not going to try selling it as a vintage piece ) My father bought me a1963 Strat on my sixteenth birthday ( which I regretfully sold several years ago) he sadly passed away last year, and I'd love to be able to play something as close as possible to that guitar at gigs as tribute to his memory. I have some photos of it somewhere, I can post if any ones interested

Regards Jaberwock

[hamerhead]

That's really a cool idea. I'm sure he would be proud. We gotta see it when it's done.

I'm sure my dad would rather have beat me with a guitar.

[burningyen]

TDPRI is my go-to source for DIY info:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/finely-finished/308699-advice-checking-nitro-please.html

[cmatthes]

I won't pretend to speak for Stike, but I don't think he does relic finishes.

I would recommend skipping the Warmoth route for that - go straight to Mark Jenny @ MJT. He's very reasonably priced and you can get the whole body done in your choice of nitro finish, you pick the degree of yellowing, checking, wear, etc. for under $400. You can also pick from lightweight Ash or Alder if that's your thing.

[murkat]

" Mark Jenny @ MJT. "

^ this. and second'd.

[burningyen]

Chris' advice is good, I've heard good things about MJT. You could also ask Protocaster or Burtone (aka Superlead on TGP) to do the whole thing for you, minus the decal.

[Stike]

I won't pretend to speak for Stike, but I don't think he does relic finishes.

I would recommend skipping the Warmoth route for that - go straight to Mark Jenny @ MJT. He's very reasonably priced and you can get the whole body done in your choice of nitro finish, you pick the degree of yellowing, checking, wear, etc. for under $400. You can also pick from lightweight Ash or Alder if that's your thing.

" Mark Jenny @ MJT. "

^ this. and second'd.

You can speak for me Chris, I don't do 'em and MJT has that shit down. RS does some real good looking aged stuff too.

[bubs_42]

Good Stuff Guys, next one for me is a Tele Build.

[FrankieIII]

I know some highly regarded relicers have put the razor blade to very good use for things other than shaving and drugs...

[jaberwock]

Many thanks, I'll contact these guys, and start the ball rolling on this project.

Am I right in thinking the finish checking is done with a razor blade ? I was under some impression it was done with liquid nitrogen.

I'm not a big fan of those "heavy relic" finishes, I just want the paint to look like it's fifty years old; nitro picks up dings pretty easily ( especially on stage ) in my experience.

A picture of my first Strat, sadly stripped, as was the fashion back then. Apologies for the clothes, I was in my Richie Blackmore phase, and it was the seventies.

Jaberwock

[jaberwock]

Sorry the picture didn't attach last post.

[singlehum]

That image reminds me of the pic of Bob Mayo on the inside of Frampton Comes Alive...

[jaberwock]

It must be about thirty five years since I last saw that album sleeve !!

Album cover artwork was hugely important at that time; CD's seem to have lost the plot these days.

Jaberwock

[BadgerDave]

I'll mention that RS Guitarworks did a medium relic finish on a maple Tele neck for me that was far superior to anything I've seen from Fender.. I sent them a photo of the body and asked them to match the level of wear. They did - perfectly.

[cmatthes]

MJT eBay site (about $50-$75 cheaper than going direct):

http://stores.ebay.com/MJT-Aged-Guitar-Finishes

Their website:

http://mjtagedfinishes.com/cart/index.php

[Hamer Dave]

Many thanks, I'll contact these guys, and start the ball rolling on this project.

Am I right in thinking the finish checking is done with a razor blade ? I was under some impression it was done with liquid nitrogen.

I'm not a big fan of those "heavy relic" finishes, I just want the paint to look like it's fifty years old; nitro picks up dings pretty easily ( especially on stage ) in my experience.

A picture of my first Strat, sadly stripped, as was the fashion back then. Apologies for the clothes, I was in my Richie Blackmore phase, and it was the seventies.

Jaberwock

Isn't there a method using that compressed air in the can? Y'know when it comes out super cold. Expediting the expansion/contraction of the paint.

[cmatthes]

MJT does not use the razor blade method on their bodies. They crack the nitro with a refrigerant.

[FrankieIII]

MJT does not use the razor blade method on their bodies. They crack the nitro with a refrigerant.

You mean a combination of refrigerant and heat, correct?

[cmatthes]

You can hit a nitro finish with just a refrigerant and it can check/crack.

[FrankieIII]

Makes sense. I would imagine no heat added for less check, and varying degrees of heat (or varying duration of same heat) added for more check.

[Hamer Dave]

Have fun, and experiment!

I honestly don't understand doing this on a new build, but certainly can appreciate the 'mojo' on a highly utilized instrument.

[LordOfTheThighs]

The factory checking on my PartsOcaster looks pretty decent. (Fender CS '60 light relic body)

I'm not sure how they did it though. The refrigerant method sounds really cost efficient.

[jaberwock]

This is pretty much what I'm after, with maybe a tad more surface oxidation, and wear, the " loved but used " option from MJT looks great. I just want it look the same age as the neck and, the rest of the hardware.