Fret board radii for idiots

[morningstar]

I know it relates to the curved vs. flat nature of a fret board, but know zero about what the numbers really mean. What the hell is fret board radius? What is a compound radius? Are big numbers rounder or flatter? Is one better for fretting vs, chording?

Feel free to answer as if I were in the seventh grade. I could go to the web, but I know the guys here can dumb it down for me.

Thanks

morningstar

[Studio Custom]

Lower numbers result in more curve. Lower numbers make bending more difficult with low action. Many believe flatter radius allow for faster playing.

Compound radius changes from a lower number at the nut to a larger number at the highest fret. Some prefer lower radius for cowboy chords but want the ability to shred higher up the neck, a combo from 9" to 16" allows both. Instead if cylinder think of a pyramid where the nut is the tip and the 22 fret the base.

[kenjones]

Compound Radius:

[Ted]

Thanks Morningstar for the OP, and a big "Thanks" to Ken for the great info! I had it all backwords in my mind before reading Ken's post.

[morningstar]

That compound radius sounds too good to be true. There must be a catch/compromise?

As an old fart I learned all cowboy chords back in the 60's but sure could use a clean "fight back" feel for the "solo" stuff. What is best combination of fret wire and fret board radius for for clean slow hand stuff a la David Gilmour?

Thanks a million for the insight. It adds science to my quest for my perfect guitar. (Actually I think a custom neck for the old MIK Daytona may be in order).

I know my question seems rudimentary, but as an old teacher once said "Ask and seem the fool for a minute. Don't ask and be the fool forever".

Rawk \m/

morningstar

[tomteriffic]

That compound radius sounds too good to be true. There must be a catch/compromise?

As an old fart I learned all cowboy chords back in the 60's but sure could use a clean "fight back" feel for the "solo" stuff. What is best combination of fret wire and fret board radius for for clean slow hand stuff a la David Gilmour?

Thanks a million for the insight. It adds science to my quest for my perfect guitar. (Actually I think a custom neck for the old MIK Daytona may be in order).

I know my question seems rudimentary, but as an old teacher once said "Ask and seem the fool for a minute. Don't ask and be the fool forever".

Rawk \m/

morningstar

Man, there are as many answers to that as there are players. But I'll answer and be a fool for a minute. Since Gilmour's stuff involves a lot of wide bends, a flatter radius (bigger number) would be desirable, since it's easier to bend on a flatter radius board without choking the note out. Purely personally a 12" radius would be a minimum. I've tried playing that sort of thing on a 9.5 radius Fender and it gave me fits.

Fretwire is probably a pretty personal choice too. I prefer there to be a little air under the string when I'm fretting it, which makes it easier for my fingertip to get a "grip", so to speak, on the string that I'm pushing around. Otherwise the string will tend to slip under my fingertip.

In short, a Hamer radius and frets do it just fine for me. Although it may be worth going to Guitar Denter and finding a Deluxe Player's Strat. It has that combination of radius and fret size. Although you can be pretty sure that the setup is going to suck on it. Maybe it'll give you an idea.

Oh, BTW, Gilmour's slow, dreamy stuff is about as fast as I can play, even on a good day, so I have a lot of experience on this subject

[JohnnyB]

That compound radius sounds too good to be true. There must be a catch/compromise?

morningstar

There is no compromise in the playing. Actually, a well-done compound radius matches the way your hand and fingers want to work as you move up and down the fretboard.

Compound radius fingerboard has actually been around for hundreds of years. Just look at any cello or upright bass.

The only downsides are initial cost and maintenance. It is obviously more expensive to make one, and if the frets need to be leveled, you can't do it with just one sanding block. Here's additional info at Warmoth.

[FrankieIII]

http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/necks/radius.aspx

http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/FretSizePop_Strat.aspx

[BlueRedWhite]

This is very interesting !!

I won't be fool forever now

Thank you guys!!

[burningyen]

And yet, Gilmour seems to manage just fine with his 7.25" radius Strats. There's no best radius for anything IMHO, it's all personal preference.

[veatch]

I have always imagined the action on Gilmour's guitars must be pretty high to do the bends he does. If you like low action, compound radius is the way to go. I like my action a bit higher, and have always preferred a radius around 14:" or so - probably one big reason i like Hamers...

Bear in mind with the compound radius, you will need a flatter bridge or one that you can adjust the height of the saddles. A 24 fret neck that is CR 10 to 16 will be at about 18 at the bridge. That's if'n you want the string height / action the same across all strings - some people don't like that - some do.

[BlueRedWhite]

Whats the radius on Hamer Specials?? and on Californians??

[veatch]

I believe most Hamers are 14.5".

[pesocaster]

Hey Morningstar.... you played my Blue tele at the rehearsal barn .... compound radius...

[morningstar]

Hey Peso! I liked that guitar. I was wondering why it was so smooth all the way up the fretboard. Obviously I did nto know what I was looking for or at.

I don't own the Rehearsal Barn any more. It is still there, but Grant Anderson owns it and calls it Rehearsal Worx.

Thanks

Tom

[Armitage]

I was going to post the picture I made up to explain radius, but it looks like kenjones already did.

I gott'a start water marking things...