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Floyd frustrations


carfish7

Question

Posted

Ok, how does one keep these F@#$ing saddles from slipping?!? Try to do a big bend and "doink!" - slipped again. Try and tighten the bastards up - no, LOOK at them wrong, and the baseplate strips out.

Using 10-46 strings in standard tuning. Play rather violently most of the time. Hate the F$%@ing things!

F#$%!!!!!!!!

21 answers to this question

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Posted

I'd try new saddle screws first... how worn is the die cast edge on the hex screw head where it touches the saddle top?

How worn is the saddle top where the hex head clamps down on the metal?

Posted

Saddle screws were stripped out on my Hamer/Schaller FR so I got a new baseplate from Rockinger.com - the newer Schaller plates have steel inserts added to the baseplate so they won't strip out. Else, fix with a Helicoil set. Stay away from licensed Floyds. Floyd Specials are pretty neat if you're on a budget (only difference between a Special & a real Floyd is the Special has zinc saddles/block)...

Fitting new saddle screws to mine stripped the plate even more & I had to replace it. Good luck...

Posted

sq

how worn is the die cast edge on the hex screw head where it touches the saddle top?

How worn is the saddle top where the hex head clamps down on the metal?

Everything looks fine - no signs of wear or abuse. It may be that I'm now shy about applying too much force to properly secure the damn thing. Sometimes being a big, burly man has drawbacks. The tiny nature of these screws makes a motorcycle a breeze to wrench on by comparison. I can use a torque wrench too, and not sweat employing the ham-fist technique and having to rend the air with foul language. Floyds are the Devil's work to be sure.......

Posted

I took apart a Wilkinson trem recently.

It uses spring washers for the saddles screws between the screw head and saddles, which bolt into a baseplate in much the same way as a Floyd. Floyds don't use them but it may be worth a try of you can get M3 spring washers.

Posted

HFC'er Stonge has a fix for this, it involves a slightly bigger diameter screw that works in a stripped plate if I remember correctly. Send him a message and I'll bet he can lead you in the right direction.

Posted

HFC'er Stonge has a fix for this, it involves a slightly bigger diameter screw that works in a stripped plate if I remember correctly. Send him a message and I'll bet he can lead you in the right direction.

Only problem with putting in 3.5mm screws is that, in time, they will strip again (default size screw = 3mm)! I'd recommend a thread insert kit (ie: V-Coil or Helicoil) or one of these (if it's a Schaller type)... http://www.rockinger.com/index.php?cat=WG075&product=1637C%2F1637S%2F1637G&sid3=ae071df9829afe185153ddbe9f28f3b4

You could also fill the holes with an epoxy metal and re-tap the thread or even go with this http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81668-Stripped-Thread-Repair/dp/B000AL4WAS

I'd still personally recommend a new baseplate...

Posted

$4,264 is WAY too much for that baseplate...........

Mine was €33...

Posted

Switch to an "Original Floyd Rose" versus a licensed one...

Switch to an "Original Floyd Rose" versus a licensed one...

Switch to an "Original Floyd Rose" versus a licensed one...

Switch to an "Original Floyd Rose" versus a licensed one...

Switch to an "Original Floyd Rose" versus a licensed one...

Posted

HFC'er Stonge has a fix for this, it involves a slightly bigger diameter screw that works in a stripped plate if I remember correctly. Send him a message and I'll bet he can lead you in the right direction.

Only problem with putting in 3.5mm screws is that, in time, they will strip again (default size screw = 3mm)! I'd recommend a thread insert kit (ie: V-Coil or Helicoil) or one of these (if it's a Schaller type)... http://www.rockinger.com/index.php?cat=WG075&product=1637C%2F1637S%2F1637G&sid3=ae071df9829afe185153ddbe9f28f3b4

You could also fill the holes with an epoxy metal and re-tap the thread or even go with this http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81668-Stripped-Thread-Repair/dp/B000AL4WAS

I'd still personally recommend a new baseplate...

Good advice! I'd say replace the baseplate and any of the hardware related to the bridge. A lot of the hardware gets stripped or corroded from years of playing. Floyd Rose bridges are mechanical in design and need a periodic overhaul on their parts. I had the same problem with a '90s Japanese Charvel with my A string saddle shooting forward in the middle of a gig no matter how hard I tightened it. I ended up having to order a new baseplate since the original pot metal baseplate (yuck!) stripped out from wear/tear. I wish I would have known about the heli-coil and would have repaired it instead. Unfortunately, the new baseplated worked out, but the guitar got stolen from my vehicle 12 years ago in S.F.

Original Floyd Rose bridges or the Gotoh Floyd Rose licensed bridge is the best for double locking tremolo bridges, if you want to replace the whole thing.

Guitar George

Posted

An original FR won't fit a Hamer guitar as the Hamers have a Schaller. If you fir an original FR, you have to change the saddle/string-block bolts for the shorter Schaller type else you qwon't be able to pull back on your trem (divebomb only)...

Posted

An original FR won't fit a Hamer guitar as the Hamers have a Schaller. If you fir an original FR, you have to change the saddle/string-block bolts for the shorter Schaller type else you qwon't be able to pull back on your trem (divebomb only)...

Late 89 onwards are the current Schaller model.

But before this they are the original Floyd Rose, they even used the fine-tuner-less sort early on.

Posted

Funny. I've never had this sort of an issue with any of the gazillion Floyds and Schaller lic'd Floyds I've had. Seriously. Stuck fine tuners? Yeah. Loose arm collars? Yeah. Wonky arms? Yup. But never this. Sorry I'm no help.

Posted

Does anybody make a nice hardened steel or titanium baseplate? I'll try the helicoil if I have any problems, but it sure would be nice to make something tough enough to handle the abuse they take.

edit: Crap.... I just looked on Google and voilá: http://www.floydrose.com/bridges/FloydRoseUltimateTitaniumTremolo.php

This project is gonna get expensive

Posted

Funny. I've never had this sort of an issue with any of the gazillion Floyds and Schaller lic'd Floyds I've had. Seriously. Stuck fine tuners? Yeah. Loose arm collars? Yeah. Wonky arms? Yup. But never this. Sorry I'm no help.

No doubt! lolz.

What the fug are people doing to strip out their saddle screws?

I mean, take everything apart, lightly oil the parts and put back together without over-tightening the damn parts once in a while but...

Jeeze Louise, the only thing that should be wearing out are the knife edges and those are hardened steel inserts. lolz.

Posted

My crime apparently is to buy these shreddy Hamer guitars, remove the dental floss from them, and install a set of real strings (the previously mentioned "10"s). The last time I did this, I tossed my freshly-strung prize in a gig-bag and went to a jam session. Upon arrival, I discovered 2 of the saddles had slipped and the strings were slack. I hadn't even flogged the beast yet and had this issue pop up - alls I did was put heavier strings on the damn thing. I think it is a conspiracy against those of us who use the bigger wires. One of the saddles that slipped the other day during a monster bend was one that had slipped before, so I obviously didn't reef on it hard enough. I have never had this happen during intonation adjustment because, well, we all know what proper intonation is a sign of and I have enough challenges already.

I HAVE found myself facing stripped baseplates, but always suspected they were faulty or just on the edge before I got my filthy hands on them. It never seemed to take any real torque at all to achieve that sickening feeling one gets when it just......keeps......spinning.............

Posted

Does anybody make a nice hardened steel or titanium baseplate? I'll try the helicoil if I have any problems, but it sure would be nice to make something tough enough to handle the abuse they take.

edit: Crap.... I just looked on Google and voilá: http://www.floydrose.com/bridges/FloydRoseUltimateTitaniumTremolo.php

This project is gonna get expensive

Yes! I already told you this! The new Schaller baseplate has steel inserts for the saddle screws (meaning IT WILL NOT STRIP). Check the pics here to see the one I bought http://www.hamerfanclub.com/forums/topic/57029-wanted-hamer-schaller-floyd-rose/

Posted

Funny. I've never had this sort of an issue with any of the gazillion Floyds and Schaller lic'd Floyds I've had. Seriously. Stuck fine tuners? Yeah. Loose arm collars? Yeah. Wonky arms? Yup. But never this. Sorry I'm no help.

No doubt! lolz.

What the fug are people doing to strip out their saddle screws?

I mean, take everything apart, lightly oil the parts and put back together without over-tightening the damn parts once in a while but...

Jeeze Louise, the only thing that should be wearing out are the knife edges and those are hardened steel inserts. lolz.

My Cents trem came to me partly stripped so I've needed a baseplate since I bought it...

Posted

Does anybody make a nice hardened steel or titanium baseplate? I'll try the helicoil if I have any problems, but it sure would be nice to make something tough enough to handle the abuse they take.

edit: Crap.... I just looked on Google and voilá: http://www.floydrose.com/bridges/FloydRoseUltimateTitaniumTremolo.php

This project is gonna get expensive

Yes! I already told you this! The new Schaller baseplate has steel inserts for the saddle screws (meaning IT WILL NOT STRIP). Check the pics here to see the one I bought http://www.hamerfanclub.com/forums/topic/57029-wanted-hamer-schaller-floyd-rose/

If it's not too much of a hassle to get one from overseas, I might go that route. The price is right...

Posted

Seriously, the baseplate is so much better with the hardened steel inserts for the saddle screws. Money very well spent ;)

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