How to change pickups

[BoogieMKIIA]

Wanted to see what the experts recommend from experience when changing pickups in a Studio Custom or other Hamer. I know how to solder and desolder. Some tips around the details are sought to make it look like a factory job.

1. To desolder, start with the braid on the back of the pot or the leads on the pot terminals?
2. Desolder both braids at once? One at a time?
3. Use solder wick or a solder puller to remove solder on back of pot, or leave the solder?
4. To install, I would solder each lead to the appropriate terminal. Then heat the back of the pot to attach both braids at the same time.  If needed, flow a little bit of solder into the joint.
5. i assume the solder on the guitar is with Pb (lead).  I have like and will use it.

Thanks

[Dave Scepter]

I'll let the pros answer this as there are so many variables to this question however, one of the most important things that I do is take pictures of the control cavity "before" and determine which leads are Hot and ground... Different pickup manufacturers often use different wire color conductors for hot, ground & coil conductors to tie together... once you determine that, the rest is pretty easy...

[BoogieMKIIA]

Thanks. I have photos of the cavity and know which wire is the bridge and which is the neck PU. I’m an EE so that part is no problem. Black is the PU lead and braid is ground.

 

Neither is general soldering, but have learned that the sequence is best learned from experience. The knowledge versus doing thing.

[Thundersteel]

1 hour ago, BoogieMKIIA said:

Wanted to see what the experts recommend from experience when changing pickups in a Studio Custom or other Hamer. I know how to solder and desolder. Some tips around the details are sought to make it look like a factory job.

1. To desolder, start with the braid on the back of the pot or the leads on the pot terminals?
2. Desolder both braids at once? One at a time?
3. Use solder wick or a solder puller to remove solder on back of pot, or leave the solder?
4. To install, I would solder each lead to the appropriate terminal. Then heat the back of the pot to attach both braids at the same time.  If needed, flow a little bit of solder into the joint.
5. i assume the solder on the guitar is with Pb (lead).  I have like and will use it.

Thanks

I doesn't really matter the order you do it, just as long as you keep track of what goes where. I use solder wick to remove as much solder as possible, then use a puller only if necessary due to some residual solder. Remember to heat the joint, then apply solder to the joint. Also, make sure the solder is rosin core, not acid core.

[JGravelin]

1 hour ago, Thundersteel said:

I doesn't really matter the order you do it, just as long as you keep track of what goes where. I use solder wick to remove as much solder as possible, then use a puller only if necessary due to some residual solder. Remember to heat the joint, then apply solder to the joint. Also, make sure the solder is rosin core, not acid core.

Perfect advice. On push-back braided lead wires I do the 'hot' connections to the potentiometer lugs first and then use a small alligator clip on the braided grounds to squish them together, solder to the pot casing.

 

[gorch]

Couldn’t be better advice than this. 

Other than that, it’s all about practicing.

[Victor (Fret Friend)]

I always clean up my pots (desolder) before resoldering. Keep it clean and neat. All advice already given is spot on. Also, do as much soldering outside of the guitar as you possibly can if possible...

[Dutchman]

I use chemwick while desoldering. Remember to cover the area with cardboard or something to keep any solder from accidentally landing on a finished area and burning a hole in the finish.

[BoogieMKIIA]

Thanks for all the advice. Just went for it and no problems.  The alligator clip to hold the shields together was helpful. Chemwick is your friend. Next time I’ll get a little bigger tip/chisel tip to help with getting the solder melted on top of the pot. I have a Hakko temperature controlled station, much better than a simple pencil type iron. 

[texwest]

Well it sounds like you are done but there is something else.  I like to use a hot iron and get in and out quick.  You can overheat parts by staying too long and affect their resistance.  For this reason I like to use a solder sucker if I am cleaning up solder.  It's really fast.  For this job it's easiest to unsolder the braid first then the terminal.  Then when resoldering, solder the terminals first, then hold the braid with needle nose while you heat up the solder already on the pot casing, then push the braid down on it and hold it for a few seconds