Cable Ends

[Steve Haynie]

Somehow a Monster cable ended up at my house.  It was in with a bunch of pedals that were purchased a long time ago.  The Monster cable does not work, and there is a kink in it that is most likely where the problem lies.  So, my plan is to cut out that inch or so of crushed cable and solder new ends on both pieces. 

Are there 1/4" plugs to avoid?  Is anything out there particularly better for a Hamer input jack?  I can get Switchcraft plugs with no problem. 

[Dave Scepter]

Yup, I would stick with the proven Switchcraft ends… this might be a good time to install a 90° end... It's nice to have around 

[hamerhead]

What Dave said.

[scottcald]

What @hamerheadsaid about what Dave said and maybe a silent plug if you don't have one. 

[soli'd]

If it's a standard flush mount jack plate, I'd almost always rather have a RA plug at the gtr end.  If it's a recessed, electrosocket type cup jack, straight plugs may be less finnicky.  A failing cable is usually an issue in the conductors of the cable within 6-12" of the plug- if there's nothing wrong with the connector itself it can certainly be de-soldered and reused, just cut off a foot or so of the cable first.

As for brands, G&H and switchcraft are of similar design, the G&H plugs tend to be a bit cheaper but are at least as robust.  Neutrik are great quality, tend to be large, but they have great strain relief if cables getting kinked is an issue.  Unless you're swapping guitars often with the same cable, I'm not generally a fan of their silent plugs though- the little moving sleeve eventually gets gummed up with something and introduces an avoidable point of failure.  Amphenol makes great RA plugs that are all metal and fairly slim/low-profile.  @Steve HaynieI have a bunch of stock of these if you want to try a couple, I'd be happy to throw a couple in an envelope, they should reach you in a day where we are.

[HAMERMAN]

3 hours ago, soli'd said:

If it's a standard flush mount jack plate, I'd almost always rather have a RA plug at the gtr end.  If it's a recessed, electrosocket type cup jack, straight plugs may be less finnicky.  A failing cable is usually an issue in the conductors of the cable within 6-12" of the plug- if there's nothing wrong with the connector itself it can certainly be de-soldered and reused, just cut off a foot or so of the cable first.

As for brands, G&H and switchcraft are of similar design, the G&H plugs tend to be a bit cheaper but are at least as robust.  Neutrik are great quality, tend to be large, but they have great strain relief if cables getting kinked is an issue.  Unless you're swapping guitars often with the same cable, I'm not generally a fan of their silent plugs though- the little moving sleeve eventually gets gummed up with something and introduces an avoidable point of failure.  Amphenol makes great RA plugs that are all metal and fairly slim/low-profile.  @Steve HaynieI have a bunch of stock of these if you want to try a couple, I'd be happy to throw a couple in an envelope, they should reach you in a day where we are.

What he said!

I would add that using a  piece of heat shrink tubing over the shell of the connector that extends about two inches onto the cable really helps to extend the life of the cable.

 

[chromium]

I've used Neutrik and GLS as alternative. Not in the same league as Switchcraft, but they get the job done for a lot less.

I had standardized on Neutrik when I built the patch cables for this thing.  Around 200 feet of Canare Star Quad, god knows how many connectors, and in aggregate - probably the least fun I've ever had with a soldering iron in hand

I had bought reels of colored heat shrink tubing to use as strain relief.

These are still working great after 12 or so years in service.

  

[Dave Scepter]

6 hours ago, HAMERMAN said:

I would add that using a  piece of heat shrink tubing over the shell 

 

+1

[hamerhead]

Right-angle ends are great for the pedalboard end of the cable, but for guitars I like the straight ends. If you're swapping an LP for a Strat mid-set - or a Monaco for a Daytona - RA plugs aren't so good. You're less likely to run into issues with straight ends.

On the other end, RA plugs into pedals makes it less likely for a club-footed oaf me to accidentally step on the plug and f***ing up either the plug or the pedal.

Either way, having one straight/one 90° makes a cable more versatile IMO.

+2 on the shrink tube.

[HAMERMAN]

2 hours ago, hamerhead said:

Either way, having one straight/one 90° makes a cable more versatile IMO.

Agreed - a cable with one end straight and one end right angle works in the vast majority of situations.

[noisy neighbor]

+1 on Switchcraft.  Black heat shrink on the guitar cables and green on the speaker cables.  Makes it a lot easier for Mr. Magoo here to sort them out.