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Jeff R

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Everything posted by Jeff R

  1. Ed, a guitar nut is in essence a zero fret, but utilizing the latter saves time in construction and set-up. It's not a lot of extra effort and time to add a zero fret to a collective fret bed you are seating, beveling, leveling, crowning and polishing. At the same time, you eliminate not only the time but the margin of error that comes with cutting/routing a clean, level nut slot, shaping a nut, seating a nut (don't forget curing time for the glue) and slotting a nut to perfection.
  2. Jackson beat 'em to the punch on that years ago ... On the new Gibson ... I laughed with a friend on Facebook about Gibson's issuing a dog Les Paul ... thanks to their cross-eyed quality control, hit-and-miss approach to craftsmanship and their WTF mentality when it comes to new and/or innovative models or options, probably half the Les Pauls that have been made since the Norlin era have had a dog component. Which makes one wonder, does this new Les Paul commemorate a world culture, or does it commemorate Gibson's institutional M.O.? LOL
  3. 1/8" shaft pot knob source?

    I don't think the owner wants to spend an arm and a leg to keep it original, plus I don't necessarily trust 50-year old knobs for things like dry rot, eroded knurls in the shaft holes, etc. Keep in mind the original knobs are missing off my client's guitar for exactly those kinds of reasons haha. My hunch is that his love for normal sized amber top hats will ultimately lead to me reaming and re-harnessing the guitar with modern pots and components. But I've sent him the Digikey link and a couple other options I've identified, so it's in his court now.
  4. I have a client's old Harmony electric I'm trying to get functional again. 60s and early 70s Harmony guitars used tiny pots with tiny shafts - 1/8". So tiny it's very hard to turn the shaft without "a" pot on it. Normal knobs, even with tensioning screws, won't work - shaft too tiny. I haven't attempted to improvise the existing pots to take standard knobs yet - they are still functional and quiet so I don't want to damage or disrupt them via improv if at all possible. I can't find a source for ANY knobs for those tiny shafts but I'm looking at guitar parts suppliers, effects pedal knob suppliers, etc. Any of you guys who have other electronic hobbies/interests have items with these tiny pots and know of a source for knobs? In the case of my client's old Harmony, we really don't care if the knobs look vintage or period correct, if they are plastic or metal, etc., at this point. We just want to be able to turn the damn pots for now. Thanks in advance for any tips/leads!
  5. 1/8" shaft pot knob source?

    Those pages above, when you try to search by the 1/8" shaft size, very, very little if anything comes up and what they're showing I'm not confident to order blind. I think I'm going to try to convert some small modern knobs to smaller shafts via doweling, cork material or whatever else might work. Compounding the small diameter shafts are VERY short shaft heights - there's very little material for any knob to grab onto. There's also the option of pulling the entire old harness, opening the body's control holes and re-harnessing it with modern components. I'm reluctant to do that because a.) the old stuff works shockingly well and noise free, and b.) it's a semi-hollow electric and re-harnessing any guitar through the F-holes and pickup cavities is a pain in the ass. Here's an informational pic on what I'm talking about. From left: Mounted 1/8" diameter shaft pot, standard 250K pot; mounted 1/8" diameter shaft pot, standard strat knob. The gold knob in the back is the lone original knob I have. It's about the size of the cap on a travel tube of toothpaste.
  6. NGD - I went full cheeseball...

    From 72 through 76 or so, he mostly played Gibson stuff. And who can forget his most famous Gibson copy guitar ... the heavily modified Ibanez Destroyer known as "The Shark"!
  7. Not a Pearly Gates humbucker, but the single-coil sized footprint made by the Duncan Custom Shop? I'm getting ready to (yet again) overhaul my '96 G&L Legacy's guts and this intrigues me for the bridge position. I used an early-generation JB Jr. in the Legacy forever, literally until it broke from rot, and I absolutely loved it. If it hadn't crapped out, it would still be there. In turn, I had a Fender Lone Star Strat with a full-sized PG I gigged hard in the mid-1990s and loved its bridge sound - and to date it was the only guitar I've ever heard, Les Paul or otherwise, with a Pearly Gates I liked. I like most anything A2 usually, and a single-sized bucker A2 mag and 11.2K output sounds right up my alley compared to the JB Jr.'s ceramic and 15.2K output. Anyone? http://customshop.seymourduncan.com/pearly-gates-for-strat/
  8. Looking for tips on learning bass guitar

    Train your ear and mind when you're not in the books or in multi-media learning. Find a good Motown or classic soul station on your car radio dial and leave it there. To "play" a bass, you have to start "thinking" bass. Pay attention to not only the lines, the runs and grooves, but to the interaction with the kick. THAT'S what makes a bassist versus a guy who can play a bass.
  9. NGD- Hamer Content

    That switch is a midrange boost and it might be useful if you are using the singles in clean settings and seek a touch more subtle honk. Emphasis on "might" and "subtle" based on my runs with stock Centauras over the years. You can surely find a more usable use for that control hole. I can think of two or three uses I'd get more mileage out of myself. Love the metallic red, wear and all, but I'm a little biased in the case of red sparkly guitars
  10. Just posted this on Facebook ... now you know how deep a boomer is ... in-progress pics during the re-radius of CajunBoy's '88 Chap to correct a subtle neck twist prior to refret. A typical Hamer overbuild three decades ago paid off today ... the original material thickness preserved the original shape of the inlays despite significant re-shaping in some areas of the fingerboard. The thickness you see is AFTER re-radiusing. ** the fuzz on the fingerboard is off a naphtha-doused cloth. I naphtha'ed the fingerboard to aid in photo contrast. **
  11. How deep is a boomer?

    D-U-N done! Ebony dust/epoxy patch area detail
  12. How deep is a boomer?

    Jescar NS18 57/110s installed, ends clipped and rough beveled. You can still see the stray metal filings from the latter process. I've always said my only dislike on Calis, Chaps, Cents, etc., were frets too small for shredders. I fix that. Look at what appears to be loose seating on the crowns and then look at the fret edges. That's not loose seating ... it's actually shadows being cast by the frets. Here's a share from just before fret installation many bench guys won't show you ... old fingerboards, okay any fingerboard really, can be brittle enough in the slots that you're going to get tiny tear-outs even removing old frets properly and very carefully. It's not a freak out moment. In most cases, tears are tiny enough that they pose no structural issues for the new fretwire, and the new wire will conceal the splintering. Sometimes, however, you'll get a few that will tear a tad beyond the fret crown. Again, no issue, it can just look like sloppy work to a discriminating eye if you just leave them as is. This pic shows a mix of those tiny tears on some slots that were ultimately concealed and were fine as-is ... and a few that I patched using a quick-curing clear epoxy tinted with ebony dust saved during the re-radiusing process. AKA, we insured a perfect color match by patching the fingerboard with itself kinda. Here's that area of the fingerboard after taking down the patches and the refret. I circled two of the patches to make sure they stood out. I didn't circle the boomer at F21 so you could look at before/after without a lime green aid. Keep in mind, this fingerboard and the patches are totally raw at this point, un-dyed, un-oiled, un-nothing. When I hit the fingerboard with lemon oil after the fretwork, the patches will be totally invisible. I don't think you could find them even with the reference photos haha. On that au naturel note, another shout out for the meticulous materials selection at Hamer. Look at this ebony fingerboard, how gorgeous it is. Now consider, what you see is the pure ebony, taken down via abrasives and re-radiusing to its natural form. No dyes, no oil (I can't oil it until I finish my fretwork), no treatment of any sort. Good luck finding this slab of wood today without paying one pretty penny for it. I salivate thinking what this fingerboard is going to look like when I wrap it up. Next, final fret edge beveling and dressing, leveling, re-crowning, 13 stages of abrasive treatment ("polishing" discounts the intrusiveness and elbow grease involved) and finally getting to oil that pretty girl!
  13. I was kinda expecting a natural wood, PRS sig logo variation of the Dan Spitz PRS headstock. The idea came from simply making a 6 in a row style headstock and stretching the current PRS style into something so ugly I would like it. - Dan Spitz, March 2010
  14. DiMarzio Question

    Oh, I thought you were talking about a MIM Charvel, that's the only Charvels people around here seem to talk about lately, sorry. You are absolutely correct on the speed of the CS production line. Its lack of it is like watching paint age on a wall.
  15. DiMarzio Question

    Knowing MIM FMIC uses both Dimarzio and Duncan in different builds, on an assembly line that likely moves like a wildfire ... I'd first confirm the color codes on how the 'buckers are wired and make sure that's right. Check to see if the Dimarzio's "hot" out in the circuit is the red wire, not black, like on a Duncan. Long shot, but a possible explanation of what you describe.
  16. We've made the death list kids.

    Ukes are more popular than one would think or guess in recent years, particularly among young people. I haven't seen many on my bench but I've seen substantially more than I would have guessed I'd see. http://money.cnn.com/2014/01/17/smallbusiness/ukulele-sales/index.html http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-12-15/humble-ukulele-strings-along-new-generation-of-players/8124288 https://www.standard.co.uk/news/world/ukulele-sales-see-explosive-growth-as-small-instruments-popularity-soars-a3599566.html
  17. Without knowing the serial number, try this and see if it jives with the date you estimate (2000s) ... Letter prefix or suffix, place of manufacture. Best bet for a Navigator ... "K" (Kiso factory, Japan) is a common ESP family origin for production set-neck and neck-thru. T (Takada), CH and CS (Craft House) and TH (Technical House) are all custom shops. SS is standard factory production. If there are seven digits alongside letter(s) try YYWWDNN: Year suffix (two digits), week of the year (two digits), day of the week (1 is Monday), and the last two digits is number off the line from that factory that day ("09" would be the day's ninth completed instrument).
  18. Headstock Shapes

    Never minded Hamer's headstocks, unless it was a 3x3 Blitz. Yuck, yuck, yuck for my eye.
  19. Good friend and client and notable south Louisiana blues artist Jonathon "Boogie" Long stopped by the shop today and graciously volunteered to test-drive my ACG-1 (Ammo Can Guitar) Prototype. To my surprise and delight, I've had a lot of interest in this thing on social media. And based on the message he delivered to his manager while he was still in my shop, it appears Boogie will own the first official ACG-1. Some glamour shots ...
  20. ^^^^ That Greco SG is probably the best SG I've ever played for what my hands, ears and ribcage would want in an SG. Just piping in
  21. I've had a few clients ask me in recent times about cigar box guitars. They've apparently grown in popularity in recent years for what I'd guess is the novelty, the easier learning curve and/or the potential low cost to acquire one. I've never worked on one, I've never even played one. So I figured I get experience with them by building one from scratch. Since I don't know shit about cigar box guitars, I went about it my way with what I know about guitars and what I like guitars to do in general. I threw together some parts from my regular luthiery and repair suppliers and from a large CBG supplier I found online. And from the local military surplus. Here's the teasers ... video demo coming later this week. You really got to see and hear it in action to appreciate it. I'm actually kinda proud of it. And I can tell you now, that's a potted 8.8K alnico "real" humbucker. This ain't geared for just open-tuning sharecropper porch blues.
  22. How did you get to the HFC?

    '96-'97 and was playing around on this "internet" ... It was more of a membership list back then...not much in the way of content, but a number of people who are still on here were there. That's my story too,. I remember too, it wasn't an interactive message board but more of an introduction ledger with either people requesting BOLOs for guitars they sought or guys just singing the praises of the brand. Flashback to March 2000, courtesy of archives.org ...
  23. P-90 Special w/ push-pull??

    Sounds like an in/out phase switch. My daily player is H-S and the middle position is hardwired out of phase to get precisely that cocked wah pseudo-Octavia funkaliciousness.
  24. How'd you get into Hamer?

    First exposure was "Enola" on the back cover of "Dream Police." My 11-year old mind was enamored. First in-person exposure was a used and cosmetically beat to shit boo-berry ice metallic pearl rosewood/dots SS1 years later at a consignment gear store, mid to late 90s. Loved the guitar, loved Steve Stevens, loved Floyds, had $$$ my pocket and always wanted a Hamer so I hit it. I liked it but didn't bond with it (balance on a strap) so I traded it towards a Boogie head about a year later. But I have had Hamers bouncing in and out of my stable ever since. Mostly Floyded superstrats, like the guitars I played during my young formulative years. My favorite for my hands, ears and body have always been Centauras.
  25. I guess the Brent Mason model isn't "stratty" enough for JM ... only the bass side is stratty.